Best vent/touch hole liner?

Discussion in 'Flintlock Rifles' started by bldtrailer, Dec 12, 2018.

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  1. Dec 15, 2018 #21

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    Since "White Lightning" liners were mentioned I must warn you folks who have a 1/4-28 thread or a M6 thread in your barrel for the vent liner, YOU CANNOT REPLACE THE EXISTING LINER WITH A WHITE LIGHTNING LINER OF THE SAME SIZE.

    The White Lightning liners ALL use a 32 thread pitch which cannot be screwed into your barrel.
    The existing hole cannot be re-threaded to a 32 pitch thread either. Any attempt to re-thread the hole to the 1/4-32 thread will result in a hole without enough metal in it to withstand the pressures from firing the gun.

    The only way to switch to a White Lightning liner is to go to the next larger thread size so, if your gun has a 1/4" or M6 threaded hole you must use a 5/16" size White Lightning liner.
    On guns with large octagon barrels that might not be a problem but for many guns, the width of the flat on the side of the octagon barrel will be less than 5/16" so, the 5/16" liner will be sticking out of the neighboring flats making the whole thing look like it was done by a shade tree mechanic who doesn't know beans about muzzleloading guns.
     
  2. Dec 15, 2018 #22

    8 BORE

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    A 1/4 x28 touch hole with a set screw as the liner
    A 1/16 hole in the center of the liner works well and easy to get in and out with a hex wrench
     
  3. Dec 15, 2018 #23

    Black Hand

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    Once installed, I've never removed a liner. It seems like a bad idea to constantly take the liner in and out, wearing the threads and potentially creating a projectile when said worn threads fail...
     
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  4. Dec 16, 2018 #24

    Grenadier1758

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    I too believe that regular removal of a touch hole liner is unnecessary.

    Back to the original question. The OP has a 1/4-28 touch hole liner. While the Chamber's White Lightning liner is very good on it's own merits, it is not the best choice for the original question. The best choice is an internally coned liner of 1/4-28 threads. The TotW liner with the screwdriver slot is an excellent. The internal cone may benefit from some deepening. Powder from the chamber will be closer to the pan than a liner with an Allen head socket.

    My personal choice would be a 1/4-28 with enough of a top to allow the filing away the screw slot. Don't forget the anti-sieze. Opnen the touch hole to 1/16" and all should be good.
     
  5. Dec 16, 2018 #25

    8 BORE

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    To each his own. What ever works use it.
     
  6. Dec 16, 2018 #26

    appalichian hunter

    appalichian hunter

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    All my rifles are white lightening vented as everyone stated super fast, A few questions are you priming with 4 f and how much prime are you placing in the pan, as to flint life the above post gave some great suggestions on different flint positions such as bevel up or down ,placement of the flint in the cock jaws, what are you using in the cock to hold the flint, leather how thick or lead. Possible could not be the vent liner at all.
     
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  7. Dec 16, 2018 #27

    appalichian hunter

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    Forgot to ask what does the sparks look like when you dry fire the rifle, should be almost white and sparkly looking like fairies dancing in a dry punch bowl. Make absolutely sure the rifle is not loaded and dry fire it in a very dark area paying attention to lock. The brighter the sparks the hotter the flash.
     
  8. Dec 16, 2018 #28

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    4F is whats most used. Dont cover the vent hole with powder and dont get the powder right up next to the hole. Make sure to use a pick
     
  9. Dec 16, 2018 #29

    Black Hand

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    I prime with 3Fg and fill part of the pan (no effort to half-fill, 3/4-fill - less seems better than more). I've also found that a pick is useless unless there is a piece of fouling in the touch hole. Bevel-up or-down depends on your lock and the direction of attack of the flint to the frizzen. I hold the flint with a soft piece if leather and position the flint so it is just shy of the frizzen face at half-cock. The size of the hole seems to play a significant role and may need to be enlarged on some liners (1/16" appears to be the most common size that results in consistent ignition).
     
  10. Dec 16, 2018 #30

    jdw276

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    RMC has these, coned inside and out. Outside is hex key which effectively a cone.

    Has both threads for traditions and Lyman. Same RMC oxyyokes.
     
  11. Dec 16, 2018 #31

    Rat

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    I agree, each rifle/lock responds to all these things differently. My Brown Bess likes lots of powder in the pan, my Jeager likes just a little. I use ffffg for priming, because I have a pound of it. It's lasting forever. As a hunter first, and shooter second, I think I dump more out on the ground than I actually use shooting. Otherwise I wouldn't hesitate to use whatever powder I was using in the main charge. If I ever run out of ffffg, I'll just use fffg and save a couple of bucks.
     
  12. Dec 17, 2018 #32

    TerryK

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    Could someone please tell me the size on a vent liner for a TVM Lancaster? It has a slot for a screw driver.
     
  13. Dec 17, 2018 #33

    Grenadier1758

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    Its probably 1/4-28. Give TVM a call. They will tell you.
     
  14. Dec 18, 2018 #34

    appalichian hunter

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    Never been a great fan of drilling out vent liners, just replace with a new vent of quality manufacture. And be done with it. As to prime I use very little in the pan and always 4 f ,if you can find it the B.P. that is used to make fire crackers is better yet, Super fine, hot and super fast burn.
     
  15. Dec 18, 2018 #35

    nhmoose

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    The liners in my own are made by ME. Buying a liner nope not for me, mine have been working fast for years.
     
  16. Dec 19, 2018 #36

    appalichian hunter

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    Moose, not all have the tooling or knowledge to do this my hat is off to you for being able to make them. Guess it is the new Englander frugality.
     
  17. Dec 19, 2018 #37

    F.G. Ford

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    Just a little tip: ALWAYS use a bit of oil lube ( bees wax is also good ) on a drill bit prior to drilling a larger hole in your liner.
    It will help greatly in preventing the drill from breaking, and always use some speed.
    Another point always make sure that your drill bit is sharp, leaning on it while drilling doesn't work. Sharpening your drill bit is better left to some old geezer who knows what he is doing.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2018
  18. Dec 19, 2018 #38

    M. De Land

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    You can buy Meal-D (Goex) or Null-B ( Swiss) by the pound can for priming, it is dust and fine as flour.
     
  19. Dec 19, 2018 #39

    M. De Land

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    Do you harden them after turning and drilling? It looks to me like a White lightning can only be removed by drilling out and using an easy out but if hardened this could be a problem for an easy out.
    I suppose you could make them using Allen head set screws and drill with carbide.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2018
  20. Dec 19, 2018 #40

    M. De Land

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    I've seen one liner that has a Allen head socket on the face for install and removal, that looked like a pretty good idea to me as it also would act as a funnel to guide the pan flash inward. The set screw idea to make a liner.
     

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