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Beeswax treated fabric

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There's plenty of myrtle trees in Oregon. In fact the ones there are known as the "Oregon Myrtle". If I recall correctly I visited the "oldest living Myrtle tree" somewhere along the Oregon coast about 20-years ago. Not sure where but could probably Google it.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
I pour melted wax into the leather vessel, swirl to coat and pour out the excess. I then place the item in a 180F oven and pour out any wax that melts, as pooled wax in the oven can cook the leather. Repeat until the leather is fully impregnated.
 
Loyalist Dave said:
How come you guys don't use brewer's pitch? Is the beeswax just easier to use?

LD
Yes - it is also flexible, easily obtained and less expensive. The molten wax infiltrates the leather, rendering the vessel hard, while pitch appears to adhere primarily to the surface.
 
Oregon myrtle is the same as California bay laurel, not even close taxonomically to the Myrica genus of bayberry and wax myrtle. Lovely wood to work with and you can sub the leaves for bay leaves, but not a source of wax that I know of.
 
There is a Myrica species, California (or Pacific) Wax Myrtle, along the CA coast, but not as far north as OR, that sometimes has wax, sometimes not. If the berries are white, they contain wax. If they are red or purple, they do not.
 
I have no experince with brewers pitch, I used beeswax as it was what my instructions said to use. If I can get good at it I might try brewers pitch :hmm:
 
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Ive come to enjoy the flavor that a beeswax lined canteen imparts upon the water.

Rather fond of beeswax all around. I'm not sure that other substances exist that have so many uses
 
Loyalist Dave said:
..., while pitch appears to adhere primarily to the surface.

AH HA! YES I've seen that, though I thought the jack was merely heavily pitched..., but perhaps the beeswax really is the superior option.

And the pitch has sort of a pine aroma....,

LD
All I've used for Jackware is beeswax. People have describe the way pitch flakes off and others that it makes the water taste "piney", neither of which appeals to me. With beeswax easily available and simple to use, I've never needed the pitch.

It is also easy to clean - I use baking soda and water. To refresh, warm the item to soften/melt the wax, pour in fresh molten wax, swirl to coat and pour out the excess. Warm in the oven to soak in and repeat a few times.

Ideally, Jackware should be hard - a variation of the process was used to make leather armor. I've dropped my leather canteen from the truck onto blacktop, and there were a few minor scratches and dents. Heated the surface with a heatgun and the scratches disappear. Tough stuff.
 
Don't use the brewer's pitch. That's what I have in my tin canteen and by the time you get to the bottom of your canteen of water you better like the taste of pine. If you just leave the water in the canteen all day it will taste "piney" by the end of the day. The last bits are the worst.

To minimize that taste, I store my canteen dry with the stopper open and only fill it before I take the field. If there is water at hand at the end of the day, I'll fill it again in camp both at night and the next morning before going anywhere.

I keep threatening to heat up my canteen until the pitch runs out but have never actually tried that. I have the beeswax though and if I ever get adventurous, I'll remove the brewer's pitch and use the beeswax.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan
 
It's a tin canteen - go for it. At the melting temps of pitch and beeswax, there should be little danger of harming the solder.
 
Yes indeed. My first project was a canteen, it was god awful ugly so I was dissatisfied with it. I was using it on a trek when the strap came untied and I dropped it off a ledge. It fell about ten feet, and was hard enough and full enough to burst. Took me aback, but I shed no tears for it. And I had back up canteens in my snap sack.
 
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