• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Anybody done this? Probably

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 3, 2022
Messages
481
Reaction score
750
Location
Idaho
My new Dixie 54 Hawken is still occasionally shredding patches. 60 grains of 2f T7 with .18 pillowticking. Certainly not too much powder. I noticed I can see some fine machine marks on the lands. Thinking about lubing some patches with JB bore paste and shooting a few with RB's. Think it'll help?
 
Maybe. But JB bore paste is a VERY mild abrasive. So it might take a little effort and repetition to see any result. I use one or two different grits of non-embedding industrial abrasive, but I don't think you'd want to go out and buy some just for the one barrel. I bet someone on here knows of a more easily available non-embedding abrasive that might work a bit better than the JB bore paste. I've seen Simichrome Polish recommended, but I don't know if it's non-embedding or any more aggressive than JB bore paste. Trying the JB won't hurt.
 
I second the scotch Brite pad on undersized jag or brush. But, I would use a maroon 3m pad rather than a regular green one. The green are lower grit. I'd also try to hit the whole barrel evenly so you don't have any tight or loose spots. When the pad gets worn out, then cover it with JBs and go at it again for the finish.
 
. Thinking about lubing some patches with JB bore paste and shooting a few with RB's. Think it'll help?
Why not just follow the instructions?
Look, your talking about "fire lapping", what's the sense in that?
If ya just use some on a clean snug fitting patch/jag combo and a few 100 strokes you'll accomplish the same thing.
p.s. a few hundred strokes can be done in 10 minutes while watching TV. And I can change up the patch with fresh compound a few times ta boot.

Yeah, I do polish the bore of new rifles, it's simple, but I never felt the need to mix polishing compounds with BP residue to "expedite" a polishing process.
 
My new Dixie 54 Hawken is still occasionally shredding patches. 60 grains of 2f T7 with .18 pillowticking. Certainly not too much powder. I noticed I can see some fine machine marks on the lands. Thinking about lubing some patches with JB bore paste and shooting a few with RB's. Think it'll help?
If you're going to use JB, then follow the directions. Don't shoot it! What lube are you using? What diameter ball?
 
I somehow missed the part about wanting to shoot it to accomplish the polishing. :rolleyes: Sorry. I think that with a round ball that's senseless. There are kits available for doing this with abrasive bullets, and I've used one of those on a modern rifle, but don't think the patched round ball and any abrasive on the patch aren't going to have much of an effect. Use either the JB or some other appropriate non-embedding abrasive past on your cleaning rod with a patch, and you'll get the effect you want.
 
It does sound as if the lands are sharp on your new rifle. Heed the above advice.

You didn't say whether the patches were being cut in a circular pattern caused by a sharp crown.

It wouldn't hurt to smooth the crown using your thumb and some wet/dry sandpaper. Rotate the barrel as you sand the crown to be bit smoother.
 
" If it shooting with good accuracy, don't mess with it" ! good advice! If it isn't you might want to try auto compound with a snug patch? It comes in gray and white with gray being coarser than the white. Don't over do it. It doesn't take many strokes to improve a barrels condition.
 
Automotive buffing compound on a bore brush will work as well . Just remember to use a "throwaway ramrod" and a bore protector.
 
I've already polished the muzzle. My body can't handle a couple hundred passes up and down the barrel with a jag, elbows are shot and back isn't great. I do have automotive rubbing compound. It shoots great at 30 yards but 50 sucks. Thanks all!
 
Patches are probably getting torn at start. Sometimes just dropping patch thickness some or changing material will fix it and maintain or improve accuracy.
Breaking the sharp edges of the riflings at the crown can remedy the tearing.
The rifle I use for club compition will take a 0.015 but will shoot just as accurate with a 0.010 and a lot easier to start.
 
What are you using for patch lube? Are your patches wet? Do you need a ball starter?
 
My new Dixie 54 Hawken is still occasionally shredding patches. 60 grains of 2f T7 with .18 pillowticking. Certainly not too much powder. I noticed I can see some fine machine marks on the lands. Thinking about lubing some patches with JB bore paste and shooting a few with RB's. Think it'll help?
You might need to swab after each shot, I'd hate to think what may happen with the combination of fowling and the JB. Steel wool wrapped around a bronze brush with the paste may work as well.
 
I've used oxyoke lubed patches and pillow ticking lubed with TC 1000 plus. .015 and .018. Tried felt wads too. More testing tomorrow.
 
Scotch brite green or maroon, 320 grit abrasive, anything like that will take off the rough spots. The problem with a new rough bore, usually cut rifled, will be smoothed out with some elbow grease. If you really want to get after it pull the breech plug and cast a lead lap. That's the real way to lap a barrel and even put a little taper in it but it's good to be sure you know how to do it.
 
I've already polished the muzzle. My body can't handle a couple hundred passes up and down the barrel with a jag, elbows are shot and back isn't great. I do have automotive rubbing compound. It shoots great at 30 yards but 50 sucks. Thanks all!
I'm a firm believer in using what you have as long as its close to what you need. I would definately give the rubbing compound you already have a try. I used auto metal polishing paste and it improved my barrel better than i expected. Perhaps someone could help give the rods a few strokes for you. Unfortunately for you the more times the patch goes up and down the smoother it will be. You might consider doing it over a few days or so. I wouldn't let it dry out in the barrel though.
 
Back
Top