I'm going to shoot the new Hawkin tomorrow and was wondering if the .010 patches are too thin(as i'm gathering they will be from what i've read here) can I use two .010 patches together to give me an .020 or does it not work that way?
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Another patch question
- Thread starter Vtsmoker
- Start date
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What size ball will you be using?
Try the .010 thick lubricated patches and recover all that you can find.
If they show signs of burning it indicates they are too thin and they are not sealing the bore.
Using two .010 patches does kinda work like one .020 patch but they are often a bit harder to load than one .020 patch would be.
Start out with a mild powder load. That way you can find out how well the gun shoots target loads. You can work your way up later.
Using mild powder loads at this stage of load development usually do not burn patches (unless your using 777) so if the patch burns thru it will give a good indication of how well the patch is sealing the ball/bore.
If they show signs of burning it indicates they are too thin and they are not sealing the bore.
Using two .010 patches does kinda work like one .020 patch but they are often a bit harder to load than one .020 patch would be.
Start out with a mild powder load. That way you can find out how well the gun shoots target loads. You can work your way up later.
Using mild powder loads at this stage of load development usually do not burn patches (unless your using 777) so if the patch burns thru it will give a good indication of how well the patch is sealing the ball/bore.
Now that I see what the caliber is I would say a mild powder load would be about 55-60 grains.
Most of my .50's shoot their best between 65 and 70 grains of powder.
Most of my .50's shoot their best between 65 and 70 grains of powder.
If it hasn't been mentioned before, you may find that a new barrel will have some sharp edges left on the rifling resulting in cut patches and poor grouping. .010 patches may be too thin but your particular rifle may like them just fine. Just see how this combination works for now and concentrate on figuring out the most accurate powder charge before you double up on the patches. I think that if you do so it will introduce more variables that will lead to frustration rather than solving problems.
nchawkeye
58 Cal.
I have used two .010 patches in the past with my .54 before I settled on .018...So, yes it can be done, just might need a mallet to get the ball started... 
That's a good starting point. Right now you are just looking for the best groups & powder charge, not adjusting the sights or changing patch thickness and/or lube recipes, that will come later. Have fun and let us know what happens.
tjohnson56
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2008
- Messages
- 310
- Reaction score
- 1
Using a mallet may sound bad but it's better than a fellow might think. I use a rubber hammer all the time at the range. I tap the ball and patch in gently till it's flush with the muzzle then cut off the patch ( I use home made patching from walmart pillow ticking ripped into strips and lubed)
If I use a short starter sometimes it puts a mark on the face of the ball or it sinks the ball past flush with the muzzle and then when I cut the patch off I have extra patch material hanging in front of the ball. Some folks here will tell you none of this will matter and they could very well be right. But if your trying to work up a load why not try to keep as many variables the same so when you shoot groups trying to find the load your gun wants you will know that what ever you changed, be it powder charge or patch thickness or lube, you'll know that was what affected the group or the the guy pulling the trigger.
I'm not saying this is a must do. It just makes sense to me. It's also easy on the hand, if your shooting a tight patched load and want to shoot a lot of groups. :stir:
If you want to give this a try you can pick up a rubber mallet in walmart camping dept. for $2.
If I use a short starter sometimes it puts a mark on the face of the ball or it sinks the ball past flush with the muzzle and then when I cut the patch off I have extra patch material hanging in front of the ball. Some folks here will tell you none of this will matter and they could very well be right. But if your trying to work up a load why not try to keep as many variables the same so when you shoot groups trying to find the load your gun wants you will know that what ever you changed, be it powder charge or patch thickness or lube, you'll know that was what affected the group or the the guy pulling the trigger.
I'm not saying this is a must do. It just makes sense to me. It's also easy on the hand, if your shooting a tight patched load and want to shoot a lot of groups. :stir:
If you want to give this a try you can pick up a rubber mallet in walmart camping dept. for $2.
ohio ramrod
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2008
- Messages
- 7,473
- Reaction score
- 2,203
Yep, with a .490 ball, .010 patches are too thin and will blow to pieces.
Assuming that the grooves are .010 deep, that thin patch will barely get into the bottom of the grooves and won't seal well.
I suggest a .015 patch, to start with, and go from there.
In addition, I suggest that you scrub the factory bore preservative out of the bore with brake cleaner, then oil it well and scrub the bore with a 1 1/2-2" square of green scotch brite pad on a 45 cal jag to remove any offending burrs on that new barrel. Oil the bore well, and scrub about 50 strokes, counting one cycle of in and out as one stroke.
You can use two .010 patches, but it's gonna be harder to load than you might think, not to mention that you will learn to appreciate a "mallet" and short starter rather quickly. Again, I suggest beginning with .015 and try .018" patches as you work up a load.
Either way, you will need to smack that short starter right smartly with your hand to get that patched ball into the bore.
God bless
Assuming that the grooves are .010 deep, that thin patch will barely get into the bottom of the grooves and won't seal well.
I suggest a .015 patch, to start with, and go from there.
In addition, I suggest that you scrub the factory bore preservative out of the bore with brake cleaner, then oil it well and scrub the bore with a 1 1/2-2" square of green scotch brite pad on a 45 cal jag to remove any offending burrs on that new barrel. Oil the bore well, and scrub about 50 strokes, counting one cycle of in and out as one stroke.
You can use two .010 patches, but it's gonna be harder to load than you might think, not to mention that you will learn to appreciate a "mallet" and short starter rather quickly. Again, I suggest beginning with .015 and try .018" patches as you work up a load.
Either way, you will need to smack that short starter right smartly with your hand to get that patched ball into the bore.
God bless
