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Brass Barrel Rod and Test

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mtsage

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Not real sure how I should have titled this post but I'm sure it will get some replies. Anyway, was reading a post sometime back about sliding a brass rod down the barrel and then patching up a ball and starting it in the barrel a ways and then tipping the barrel down and letting the weight of the rod knock out the ball and patch and reading the results on the ball. Results being how to read how tight the patch/thickness and mark on the lead ball imprint is. And not sure really in my pea size brain what is good and what is bad. So will post a couple of pics that show the RB and marks of rifling on the balls. Pics are the best I could get off my iphone so forgive me if they are hard to see. But you can definitely tell the diff between thinner patch and thicker patch. The thinner patch is a Dutch compressed .010 or .018 not compressed. The thicker patch is .013 Dutch compressed and .022 not compressed. On the .013 patch you can see the imprint of the patch all around the ball. I.E., the patch has filled in the groove as well as the rifling. Good or too tight??? And the thinner .010 compressed patch, the patch imprint only can be seen in the rifling. Good or bad????? This is a hunting flinter barrel .45 cal. And once again I appolize for poor pic quality. But if you zoom in or look closely you can see the patch imprint on the both balls. In my mind I would think the thicker patch would be better for sealing the pressure. But gun seems to shoot good with either thickness. Have not had it on a crony so not much help there. Thoughts? Thanks.

Ball on left is thin patch
Ball on right is thicker patch


Marlowe
IMG_0237.jpg
 
So what happens if the brass rod doesn't knock out the patched ball?

Do I see a new thread coming;
"How do I get a stuck patched ball and a brass rod out of my barrel?"
Unlikey to happen. But, if it does, you have to seat the ball then pull with a screw tip on the ramrod. Or maybe shoot out with some 4Fg dribbled into the flash channel/touch hole. But, I have never found the brass rod technique to be necessary. To test for patch grab with patch/rifling imprint I have always just used a large hunk of patch, drive the ball an inch or so into the bore then pull out and inspect. However, the best test of ball/patch combo that works best for your rifle is found on the 'X' ring.
 
So what happens if the brass rod doesn't knock out the patched ball?

Do I see a new thread coming;
"How do I get a stuck patched ball and a brass rod out of my barrel?"
Could I guess. But the rod is .437 inch, 12" long and weighs 10 ozs. And used on a .45 cal. It take the ball out in about 3 tips up and down the barrel and ball pops out. It would be a mess if used on a smaller caliber for sure. Nobody would do that would they. 😂
 
Unlikey to happen. But, if it does, you have to seat the ball then pull with a screw tip on the ramrod. Or maybe shoot out with some 4Fg dribbled into the flash channel/touch hole. But, I have never found the brass rod technique to be necessary. To test for patch grab with patch/rifling imprint I have always just used a large hunk of patch, drive the ball an inch or so into the bore then pull out and inspect. However, the best test of ball/patch combo that works best for your rifle is found on the 'X' ring.
So back to my original question, should not the patch imprint be seen on the ball be continuous around the ball. By that I mean the imprint should be seen on the groove and rifling on the ball? I understand that all patch thickness can give diff results on accuracy. But I would think that for effeciency the patch should be tight with in the groove as well. I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here. Just my old retired engineer brain gone wild I guess. Thanks
Marlowe
 

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