• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

A few architecture questions

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Grizzly Adams

50 Cal.
Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
1,049
Reaction score
2
Hey all, I am hearing up for a new rifle build. It is a TVM Tennessee kit and I have a few questions regarding shaping the stock.

First, how is a TN rifle upper forend usually shaped? Is it typically shaped in a V or a U?

Is the lower forend usually round, as with the wrist?

Also, the areas parallel to the tang, when they transition, is it more appropriate to have them just swoop down and blend with the rails on the forearm, or scallop it so that it blends smoothly into the contour of the barrel.

I will not be including a nosecap on this build, would it be most appropriate to shape it as if there was a nosecap there, or what? What say ye? Pictures of various examples are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance! :thumbsup:
 
19222.jpg


A plan/pattern is worth infinitely more than the few bucks they sell for.

The pic above is a sample of one of the plans MBS sells ($5.50 for this example of the a Tennessee rifle built from the Boone tree)

Most patterns give you a profile for the key areas and then you can use a contour guide to "get her right"

41115KJ9JBL.jpg
 
The area beside the tang is generally a continuation of the barrel flats. This can sometimes be a problem if your lock panel and sideplate panel are too thick. Also on the fore end keep thinking thin; scary thin.
 
The answer to your nose cap question is yes. The nose area was thinned down so one could more easily grasp the ramrod. I think the nose cap was mainly to prevent the stock from cracking down the ramrod channel. I think most Tennessee rifles had a poured pewter nose cap, but TOW sells a steel one that is easy to install and looks good. (It reduces the chance of cracking the stock too.)

 
That is a great picture, I will be referencing that one a lot. Thanks!

And galamb, your suggestion on the contour guide is genius. I have been using mine incessantly since starting my project.
 
IMO, they look handy and they do a fair job of transferring and comparing shapes but don't expect any real precision work from them.
 
Lowes, Home Depot......I find them useful when making my stock from a chunk o wood....getting both rifle sides the same.... :cursing: can be a real BEAR!!!!

Tomtom n marc
 
I think most of the original Tenn. rifles DID have a iron
or steel nose cap, but that is just from my observation at shows &
from photos. Seen allot with poured pewter as well.

And I feel the cap is to protect the end of the forestock on a Tenn, same
as it does on any other ML. Without it, one good bump on the wood at the
muzzle can easily split the wood right back to the first underlug & RR
pipe & possibly on.

I do feel it definitely needs a Nosecap or Poured Pewter so support
it a tad out on the end, if you plan on using the rifle..

Keith Lisle
 
Back
Top