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.45 Range Report-Thinner Patch

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Trench

62 Cal.
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
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Over the summer, I found two load combinations that are accurate for my purposes with my .45 but they require a .020 patch that takes two or three smacks with my short starter to get it past the crown. This was resulting in stretching and weakening of the fibers of the patch at the crown which was exacerbated after firing. Not to mention, a real pain to get down the bore with the hickory ramrod for repeated shots in the field for squirrel hunting.

I got the bright idea that a thinner patch might hold up a little better if it passed by the crown easier. Well, wrong, but I got some useful results. My 52gr load of 3F with the .015 patch doesn't group so much worse from the same load with a .020 patch out to 50 yards not to use it for squirrel hunting out to 25yds and off-hand shooting with the rifle club out to 50yds. It was a breeze to load with the hickory rod.

The 70gr trial with the .015 patch shows that I need to stick with the .020 patch for 100yd target shooting and deer hunting. I can follow up with a .015 patch in the field after the first shot at a deer for any easy reload.

Here's pictures of both the .020 and .015 patch targets along with some patch pictures. All shooting was done sitting at a bench with a front rest for the muzzle of the rifle.

.020 Patch Targets:
70gr3F50yd020Spit7-28-12.jpg


52gr3F50yd020Spit7-21-12.jpg


Typical .020 Patches
IMG_5050.jpg


.015 patch targets. Wind was from my right at 10mph.

52gr3F50yd015Spit12-31-12.jpg


IMG_5815.jpg


70gr3F50yd015Spit12-31-12.jpg


IMG_5815.jpg


The Rifle:

FullLockSide.png
 
I find I get the best accuracy in my foutyfive douglas barrel using a .445 ball .015 patch, over a leather wad and 45 grain FFF.. I suggest you try adding an over powder wad and try again with the thinner patch.
 
I was thinking the same thing... :grin: I've never used a wad of any sort. It might pay off, here.
 
Man that is a pretty rifle! If it's new the crown might be a little sharp. I find that patches dampened with moose milk start much easier than spit. You might try some lubes as well! Geo. T.
 
I used some ticking with a higher thread count. I am using .440 ball and .020 patch. The patches held together quite well. I wonder if a looser patch means more gas escapes pass the ball. Sometimes you feel that you have compressed the air in the barrel and you have to push through the air to get a good seal. Try different tread counts. I lube my patches with bore butter and tried dampening them a little. This helped the ramming process. Some very interesting groups. .440 with a .018 patch and a bit of spit?
 
I have given that crown so much attention, I don't think it has anthing to do with sharp edges. The .018 and .020 patches aren't so thick that they don't suffer any fiber damage when I'm smacking them by the crown. The .015 patch didn't have that issue based on the loads I've pulled in a test. Boy, do they get shredded on the way out, though! The .018 patches don't look that much better, buthe .015 patches are grouping better than what I've got with the .018 so far.
 
I second the op wad idea. I've experienced startling improvement in patch condition and better accuracy. An op wad protects the patch.
 
Trench, your .015 patches look like they are being cut, possibly by a sharp edge on one of the lands. Have you thought about doing the Scotch-Brite smoothing trick to eliminate it?
 
Aaagh, they look just fine.
These come out of a trophy winning GM 54 slow twist that's had over a 1000 rounds through it, there is no sharpness left to anything in that barrel. Patches just go through fire-n-brimstone comming out the bore, it's where the ball hits the mark that counts.

HPIM0779.jpg


I think Trench could improve his bench group if he let the barrel end free float and support closer to the rear forearm just ahead of the TG.
When I bench, I actually hold the rifle the same in my hands and use the bags to support my hand.
 
I would concur with necchi on the position of the sand bag and add that another under the butt (or near the butt with a cresant shaped butt) would help make a more solid rest.
I don't know how it has worked for others, but my limited experience with using hornet nesting material for a wad has been difficult to make a wad consistently and have any contribution to accuracy. The felt wool wads made to bore size or close seem to help with accurate shooting for me and I would suggest trying them. I have found one helps and two helps even more, but you may not have the same experience. Hope that helps, have a Happy New Year!
 
Each rifle is it's own indviual, but my TC 45 caliber Hawken shoots inside of 1.5 inches all day with most at or under an inch (at 50 yards). The load for my rifle is 70 grains of Triple Seven 2F with an ox-yoke 15 thousands patch prelubed with wonderlube and a .440 Hornady ball.

They guy I bought the rifle was using this load and once I tried it, saw no need to try anything else. This is also without wiping the bore too.
 
Acorn Mush said:
Trench, your .015 patches look like they are being cut, possibly by a sharp edge on one of the lands. Have you thought about doing the Scotch-Brite smoothing trick to eliminate it?


I've ran Scotch Bright down the bore on two occasions for about a total of 100 strokes and I've used 0000 Steel Wool for another 100 strokes. I've shot 200 rounds through the rifle at this point. The crown is weakening the thicker patches when they hang-up during the short starting.

I agree that a bench session with bags supporting butt and my support hand would probably shrink those groups and tell the real story. I just need to do it.

Next time out I'll experiment with an OP patch or wadding.
 
Odd thing, but I've experienced good accuracy when the recovered patches were burned and/or torn. Voodoo???
 
hanshi said:
Odd thing, but I've experienced good accuracy when the recovered patches were burned and/or torn. Voodoo???

It's just funny, period. I've got a .58 barrel which spits out patches that look like they've never been shot out of a barrel.

My Small rifle looks as if it's going to be a patch shredder, but it groups better under the same circumstances than my .58 barrel.
 
Someone else brought it up. Take a look at the density of the weave of my denim patch vrs your ticking.
That makes a big differance, I just shake my head everytime the topic of which ticking is best or what color ticking is the one to get.

It's not a static thing, fabric rolls off those machines at a variable consistancy, all the makers want is to stay within a customers tolerance of +/- what ever,,, and are always looking for ways to cut cost like everywhere else.
There are other things to look at when buying fabric than simple thickness.
I switched to Denim years ago at the advice of Brother Dutch and never looked back.
 
Can you find denim around .015 thick? I'm just starting to shop at fabric stores. Not quite sure whats available.
 
To me, your patches need to be a little bigger. The ring (thats were the ball rests) that you see on the patches sure are close to the edge of the patches. I think if you went to a little bigger patch it might help with the tearing you see.
 
I have used old wasp nest as an OP wad and my groups got smaller.I still do for hunting loads with an olive oil patch. I think anything that helps give a better seal and protect the patch will help. If you are shooting pre cut patches you might try cutting at the muzzle as well as Armakiller said this will give you a little bigger patch and the ball should be centered in the patch better.
 
Yup.
I've seen everything from .002-.028 in denim alone.
Check the ends of the bolt for 100% cotton, I try to stay away from the new stretch denim but others use it.
 

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