• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

20 gauge flintlock fowler starter load........

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

raccoonrough

32 Cal
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
7
Reaction score
7
Hello,

I would like to start working some loads out for my 20 gauge flintlock fowler.
I have some lead #6 shot and I am getting ready to buy some #5 lead "Eagle - Magnum" shot.
I also have molds for #4 buckshot and 00 buckshot (though I don't 00 buck will work with a 20 gauge).

I would like to come up with some loads for squirrel, grouse, rabbit, turkey, and med sized critters like raccoon and possum.

I was thinking just starting with the following and see how it does. Please let me know if you all have any advice or suggestions....

70 grains of FFF / over shot card / lubed (soaked) over powder card / 70 grains of #6 or #5 shot / over shot card

Not sure about using the thick fiber wads and no clue on how to come up with a good load for the #4 buck.

Thanks
Spence
 
That's pretty much my load, but I use a 1/2" thick fiber wad, lubed, between powder and shot, and I preload my shot in a newsprint "cartridge" to save time...I use an ounce and 1/4 of shot.

You want to check your pattern. A roll of gift paper from The Dollar Store, reversed, will give you a white side to test the pattern. I like to use an empty steel tuna can taped to the center of the target as point of aim. If the lead pellets don't go through the can..., the load is too light OR too far away.

A "good load" for the buckshot will depend on what you want to accomplish. Deer are different than other critters, and be sure you can use buckshot where you hunt (I can't use it here in Maryland, for deer, for example) I'd look at 80 grains of 3Fg, a thick, lubed fiber wad, and 12 pellets, with a wad of tow as overshot.

LD
 
That's pretty much my load, but I use a 1/2" thick fiber wad, lubed, between powder and shot, and I preload my shot in a newsprint "cartridge" to save time...I use an ounce and 1/4 of shot.

You want to check your pattern. A roll of gift paper from The Dollar Store, reversed, will give you a white side to test the pattern. I like to use an empty steel tuna can taped to the center of the target as point of aim. If the lead pellets don't go through the can..., the load is too light OR too far away.

A "good load" for the buckshot will depend on what you want to accomplish. Deer are different than other critters, and be sure you can use buckshot where you hunt (I can't use it here in Maryland, for deer, for example) I'd look at 80 grains of 3Fg, a thick, lubed fiber wad, and 12 pellets, with a wad of tow as overshot.

LD

Okay. So the 1/2 " fiber wad goes right against the powder or do you put a think over shot card on top of the powder and then the thick fiber wad?

What do you soak/lube the thick fiber wad in?

I was considering using the #4 buckshot for turkey, raccoon, possum, and even coyote? (possibly, never know).

But 12 pellets of #4 would be a good starting load?.....loaded the way you suggest. Would there be a difference in using a thin over shot card over the #4 buckshot instead of tow? Just curious.
 
So I use melted gun lube. I make mine with 2/3 heated cheap olive oil and 1/3 melted beeswax. I put the wads in a pie tin, pour in the melted lube, let it cool and harden, then remove and store the wads. They go right against the powder. Even in hot weather they don't contaminate the powder load.

Better check the turkey laws as the largest shot in most states for turkey is #4. IF you can get a coyote close enough to hit with the buckshot, you're doing very very well. ;)

The reason why I use tow for a lot of shot applications, sometimes also as the wad between the powder and the shot, is for ease of removing if a problem happens. Shot isn't cheap, after all.

You see I use either a Pedersoli Indian Trade Musket or a Trade Gun from Loyalist Arms LLC (India parts). Neither lock is very water resistant. So IF I get a fouled powder load, when one uses tow, all you need is a cleaning "worm". The curled shape of the worm will easily snag the tow over the shot. Pull that loose, then pour out the shot from the barrel into a container to save it. Next, as the shot is now removed you apply the worm to the tow ball on top of the powder, and remove that. You can now rinse out, clean, and dry the barrel and you've only lost your powder. A good worm may also be applied corkscrew fashion to a lubed fiber wad for extraction. ;)

LD
 
So I use melted gun lube. I make mine with 2/3 heated cheap olive oil and 1/3 melted beeswax. I put the wads in a pie tin, pour in the melted lube, let it cool and harden, then remove and store the wads. They go right against the powder. Even in hot weather they don't contaminate the powder load.

Better check the turkey laws as the largest shot in most states for turkey is #4. IF you can get a coyote close enough to hit with the buckshot, you're doing very very well. ;)

The reason why I use tow for a lot of shot applications, sometimes also as the wad between the powder and the shot, is for ease of removing if a problem happens. Shot isn't cheap, after all.

You see I use either a Pedersoli Indian Trade Musket or a Trade Gun from Loyalist Arms LLC (India parts). Neither lock is very water resistant. So IF I get a fouled powder load, when one uses tow, all you need is a cleaning "worm". The curled shape of the worm will easily snag the tow over the shot. Pull that loose, then pour out the shot from the barrel into a container to save it. Next, as the shot is now removed you apply the worm to the tow ball on top of the powder, and remove that. You can now rinse out, clean, and dry the barrel and you've only lost your powder. A good worm may also be applied corkscrew fashion to a lubed fiber wad for extraction. ;)

LD

Awesome, Thanks.
Yes, I have gone squirrel hunting twice this past two weeks in WV. I used the load as described above. One day I didn't discharge my fowler at all. I just did as you described......only I used a screw tip ball remover and removed the over shot card.......poured the shot out......then used the same to remove my over powder card and so on......

Thanks, I will mix up some of your lube. I have some beeswax just need to pick up some cheap olive oil.

Thanks
 
I would drop that powder charge to 60 or 65 grains of powder, really 60 should be fine with 3f, and the 70 grain measure of shot, for small game.
I've found no advantage, and often see pattern problems, to the traditional fiber wad between powder and shot. The only time I use one is for the Skychief load where it is heavily lubed and placed on top of the overshot card that is holding the load in place.

I load just a bit over 60 grains powder, thin card, lubed felt wad, 1oz of #5 shot then another thin card, for squirrels and pheasant, will shoot other small game with this if opportunity arises. I'll change to #6 if specifically targeting rabbits or smaller game birds.
I up to 70 grains powder and 1 1/8 oz #5, loaded Skychief style for turkey.

I would consider #4 shot for squirrel if I could get a pattern with nice clean and even edges as I try to get then with the edge of the pattern. Less shot to pick out and a #4 pellet or two has plenty of knock down power and the larger #4 or #5 shot is easier to pick out.
I could be wrong, but I think it was our late and sorely missed friend, Brown Bear that had done some experimenting with ticking cloth shot cups formed at the muzzle to try and get those neater pattern edges. I tried it with limited success.
 
Back
Top