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1:66 GPR pbr and pyrodex
- Thread starter sar
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
take cal. size 1gr per cal. up to 1 1/2 gr per cal.
jtmattison
70 Cal.
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You could go for a gusto and start with 80 grains of powder and see how it groups. If it's on then you have a good hunting load right off the bat.
When I try a new rifle I start with 80 grains of 2F BP.
If you want small game/target/plinking loads you could start at about 60 grains and work up to find the best load.
Experimenting is half the fun.
HD
When I try a new rifle I start with 80 grains of 2F BP.
If you want small game/target/plinking loads you could start at about 60 grains and work up to find the best load.
Experimenting is half the fun.
HD
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My 54 GPR is happiest with 80-90 grains of Pyrodex P. I was shooting it yesterday at my usual 50 yards, then moved back to 100 out of curiosity even if I won't shoot that far at game. Groups at 50 yards were on the order of 1-2" with both 80 and 90. But at 100 yards the 90 grain charge cut groups to half what I could produce with the 80 grain charge. That's a drop from 6-7" to 3-4". I know, I know, lots of folks do better than that with GPRs at 100 yards, but I think it's pretty darn good for my old eyes.
jtmattison
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BrownBear said:
Those groups are great. Especially considering the kill zone on a moose is about the size of a trash can lid.
HD
Guest
I've been amazed by the accuracy of my GPR. Here is a typical target shot with it. Three shots at 60yds consisting of a Speer .535" ball, T/C .018 pillow ticking patch, 100gr Triple-7 and a CCI #11 cap for 1850fps. Had to drive all the way to DGW last week to find Goex FFg so 777 is all I've tried.
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Thanks! I was pretty proud of that target. Okay, okay. I was proud because it's pretty rare for me to shoot that way.
Put the trash can lid behind a screen of willows, and that's a typical moose shot.
On all three I've shot, you had to pick a hole in the brush to shoot through, cuzz there isn't a shoulder-fired bullet on earth or in the land of physics that is going to "cut through" brush reliably and consistently. Centerfire or muzzleloader, big or small, round nose or pointed, fast or slow- they're all deflected too much to risk.
Lots better to pick a hole in the brush and shoot through that. It feels pretty strange to have that trash can lid only 30 yards away and not be able to shoot, but I've passed up shots because I simply couldn't find a hole to shoot through. Inches of accuracy are critical for hitting trash can lids!
Same for deer, whose trash can lids are the size of saucers.
Put the trash can lid behind a screen of willows, and that's a typical moose shot.
On all three I've shot, you had to pick a hole in the brush to shoot through, cuzz there isn't a shoulder-fired bullet on earth or in the land of physics that is going to "cut through" brush reliably and consistently. Centerfire or muzzleloader, big or small, round nose or pointed, fast or slow- they're all deflected too much to risk.
Lots better to pick a hole in the brush and shoot through that. It feels pretty strange to have that trash can lid only 30 yards away and not be able to shoot, but I've passed up shots because I simply couldn't find a hole to shoot through. Inches of accuracy are critical for hitting trash can lids!
Same for deer, whose trash can lids are the size of saucers.
jtmattison
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BrownBear said:
:haha:
I was always amazed at how easily a moose could just vanish into the brush without even leaving a single leaf turned to show they were there. Incredible animals.
HD
paulvallandigham
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No 1000 lb animal walking over soft ground gets away without leaving sign. You are not looking close enough.
Practice " Seeing " sign and tracks by first finding an area of fresh vegetation that has not been stepped on. You will need to lay down on the ground or turf to get a good look, and ALWAYS put the ground you are looking at between you and the sun, or your source of light. Do this in early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is low on the horizon. When you are satisfied that nothing else has stepped on the area, stand up and STEP ON IT! Now, come around and lay down where you were before and look for the changes in the leaves, stalks, stems, and ground. Look for shadows coming off the wall of your boot or shoeprint. Turn over leaves and examine the underside of broad leaves. You will see bruising quite clearly on the undersides, long before it appears on the upper surface.
Finally, put you fingers and palm down where your foot stepped, and feel for the flattening of green plants, while those beyond the edge of your boot, or shoe, stand tall and fluffed up. Feel for the walls of the track in the soft earth underneath.
Now if a 200 lb. man can make a readable print in that soil, you can bet a moose does too. Yes, a moose's foot has a soft tissue area in the middle, but the outside of the hooves are hard, just like that of a horse, or deer. These are fingernails, grown together, and are composed of the same type of material as your own fingernails. they may not be as tough as bone, but they are certainly tough enough to put a foot( hoof) outline in the ground where the moose stepped.
Is this kind of tracking easy? Hell NO! If it was, there would probably not be any moose left. Can you learn to track a moose like you could a bulldozer? Yep. All it takes is effort and correct practice. How do you think Native American trackers are able to guide hunters on Moose hunts so well? I can assure you that they spent hours on their stomachs when they were boys, looking at tracks and sign. And, no one gave them this detailed a short course on tracking as I have here. They had to learn this by finding it themselves.
Practice " Seeing " sign and tracks by first finding an area of fresh vegetation that has not been stepped on. You will need to lay down on the ground or turf to get a good look, and ALWAYS put the ground you are looking at between you and the sun, or your source of light. Do this in early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is low on the horizon. When you are satisfied that nothing else has stepped on the area, stand up and STEP ON IT! Now, come around and lay down where you were before and look for the changes in the leaves, stalks, stems, and ground. Look for shadows coming off the wall of your boot or shoeprint. Turn over leaves and examine the underside of broad leaves. You will see bruising quite clearly on the undersides, long before it appears on the upper surface.
Finally, put you fingers and palm down where your foot stepped, and feel for the flattening of green plants, while those beyond the edge of your boot, or shoe, stand tall and fluffed up. Feel for the walls of the track in the soft earth underneath.
Now if a 200 lb. man can make a readable print in that soil, you can bet a moose does too. Yes, a moose's foot has a soft tissue area in the middle, but the outside of the hooves are hard, just like that of a horse, or deer. These are fingernails, grown together, and are composed of the same type of material as your own fingernails. they may not be as tough as bone, but they are certainly tough enough to put a foot( hoof) outline in the ground where the moose stepped.
Is this kind of tracking easy? Hell NO! If it was, there would probably not be any moose left. Can you learn to track a moose like you could a bulldozer? Yep. All it takes is effort and correct practice. How do you think Native American trackers are able to guide hunters on Moose hunts so well? I can assure you that they spent hours on their stomachs when they were boys, looking at tracks and sign. And, no one gave them this detailed a short course on tracking as I have here. They had to learn this by finding it themselves.
One fun book on tracking--though the focus is on an animal more dangerous than a moose, and was recommended to me by an old shooting buddy who's a retired Border Patrolman--is Joel Hardin's book Tracker: Case Files and Adventures of a Professional Mantracker. It's hard to find and expensive online, but you can mail Joel Hardin himself at 225 Mill Road, Stites, Idaho 83552, and he'll send you one, postage included, for $14.95. He'll even inscribe it for you, if you like. Interesting reading, and lots of tips on tracking that'd cross over easily into hunting things that don't shoot back, too. (I'm not advertising for Mr. Hardin's book, but just wanted to spare the reader the months of difficulty I had in finding a copy, before I found I could order one inexpensively from the friendly Mr. Hardin himself.)
paulvallandigham
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I have joel's book, and it is good. But, most readers , who have no training in basics, are going to miss most of the really good things in the book, being more interested in the general story he tells about working the cases. The best basic Tracking book for new students is Jack Kearney's book, " Tracking: A Blueprint For Learning How", Pathways Press, 522 Jeffree St., El Cahon. CA. 92020. Send a check for $20.00 to cover the cost of the book and shipping, and i am sure Jack will autograph it for you. You can order these books through a local bookstore. Sometimes, they are found on[url] Amazon.com[/url].
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Now that moose tracking 101 is finished, lets get back to the question sar had.
Sense sar said this was his first time, I'll touch on some basics.
Always measure your powder using a volume style of measure. Do not weigh your loads on a scale unless your using real black powder.
Always seal up the can/bottle of powder after you measure out a load into the powder measure.
Pour the powder down the barrel and lightly slap the side of the gun down by the breech.
If your shooting a patched ball the patch must be lubricated with either a commercial product like Bore Butter, olive oil, Stumpkillers Moose Juice, or just plain old spit.
You will probably need a "short starter" (a ball with two short wooden or metal rods sticking out of it) to get the patched ball started into the bore.
If your gun is a percussion style make sure the nipple is not capped and the hammer is at "half cock" before ramming the ball.
Make sure the projectile is rammed all the way down to the powder. No gaps.
Don't cap the nipple until the gun is pointed downrange.
Have fun!
zonie
Sense sar said this was his first time, I'll touch on some basics.
Always measure your powder using a volume style of measure. Do not weigh your loads on a scale unless your using real black powder.
Always seal up the can/bottle of powder after you measure out a load into the powder measure.
Pour the powder down the barrel and lightly slap the side of the gun down by the breech.
If your shooting a patched ball the patch must be lubricated with either a commercial product like Bore Butter, olive oil, Stumpkillers Moose Juice, or just plain old spit.
You will probably need a "short starter" (a ball with two short wooden or metal rods sticking out of it) to get the patched ball started into the bore.
If your gun is a percussion style make sure the nipple is not capped and the hammer is at "half cock" before ramming the ball.
Make sure the projectile is rammed all the way down to the powder. No gaps.
Don't cap the nipple until the gun is pointed downrange.
Have fun!
zonie
oldwolf
40 Cal.
Just one comment.
Spit should be used only if you are immediately planning to shoot the gun. One of the other lubes can be used if you are planning to keep the gun in the loaded condition for some time.
I have never used spit but my comment seems to be reasonable to me. Am I correct?
Spit should be used only if you are immediately planning to shoot the gun. One of the other lubes can be used if you are planning to keep the gun in the loaded condition for some time.
I have never used spit but my comment seems to be reasonable to me. Am I correct?
Guest
I'd recommend 50 grams of Levitra!
oldwolf: I agree with you.
If spit is used as a patch lube the shot should be fired within a minute or less.
After all, it is basically water and it can cause the barrel to start to rust.
zonie
If spit is used as a patch lube the shot should be fired within a minute or less.
After all, it is basically water and it can cause the barrel to start to rust.
zonie
If your patches are newly made you probably won't have a problem but if they are old they may tear when they are fired.
Try to find some of your first shots patches and examine them.
The fired patches should have tattered edges, a slightly dark ring where the ball contacted the bore and a brown/blackish appearance at the center area.
If they have tears or burned thru areas replacing them with newer thicker patches will help the accuracy of the gun.
Try to find some of your first shots patches and examine them.
The fired patches should have tattered edges, a slightly dark ring where the ball contacted the bore and a brown/blackish appearance at the center area.
If they have tears or burned thru areas replacing them with newer thicker patches will help the accuracy of the gun.
I'll show my ignorance by saying it sounds like that stuff I keep seeing advertised on TV.
You know:
"VIETERUM" THE NEW WONDER DRUG THAT CURES THE COMMON COUGH"
Note: Possible side effects includes dry mouth, dry nose, dry urine, nausea, high blood pressure, low blood pressure, no blood pressure, ulcers, constipation, and diarrhea. If your liver is over 8 years old this product may cause a total shutdown of that organ. Kidney failure due to the use of this product is possible. Strokes have been noted in a few cases.
BE SURE TO TELL YOUR DOCTOR THAT YOU WANT GENUINE "VIETERUM". You'll say it's swell!
zonie :grin:
You know:
"VIETERUM" THE NEW WONDER DRUG THAT CURES THE COMMON COUGH"
Note: Possible side effects includes dry mouth, dry nose, dry urine, nausea, high blood pressure, low blood pressure, no blood pressure, ulcers, constipation, and diarrhea. If your liver is over 8 years old this product may cause a total shutdown of that organ. Kidney failure due to the use of this product is possible. Strokes have been noted in a few cases.
BE SURE TO TELL YOUR DOCTOR THAT YOU WANT GENUINE "VIETERUM". You'll say it's swell!
zonie :grin:
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