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Alcohol in barrel?

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WVAED

40 Cal.
Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
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I have read many here that swab out their barrels with alcohol to remove oil and such. Will rubbing alcolhol from the drugstore on a cotton patch work or is there some other type you use? Thanks
 
yes it will!
there is common, which has more H2O in it and a stronger version that is about 90% iso alc.

both will do job, the weaker takes a tad longer to evaporate, but MY guns have had ZERO issues......EVER!
 
agree with Brett..I use the 91% from walmart..wipe barrels with it wipe frizzen pan an flint before I go huntin or shootin..good stuff.. :thumbsup:
 
Rubbing alchohol will work,,I recommend 90%, less water.

I personally use Everclear or denatured for removing storage oil.

A little acetone works well, also naptha.
 
reddog said:
Rubbing alchohol will work,,I recommend 90%, less water.

I personally use Everclear or denatured for removing storage oil.

A little acetone works well, also naptha.

:shocked2: Everclear?? is that the drinkable stuff? :haha:
 
reddog said:
Rubbing alchohol will work,,I recommend 90%, less water.

I personally use Everclear or denatured for removing storage oil.

A little acetone works well, also naptha.

:shocked2: Everclear?? is that the drinkable stuff? :haha:
 
Everclear is drinkable, IF you "step" on it by a minimum of 50%..., and then it's close to moonshine.

IF you have left your house and you discover that you didn't loose your bottle of rubbing alcohol, it's right where you left it at home..., you can pull into most gas stations and buy a bottle of Heat fuel additive..., it's around 100% methanol, and works fine. You can swab your gun, and pour the rest into your tank, as it mixes with residual water so prevents water moisture from freezing up in your fuel line.

HEAT is also a good fuel for some alcohol stoves or spirit burners.

LD
 
Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber. Give a shot down the bore, let it drain out the nipple, spray a patch and swab the bore. Works great and makes sure that the breech IS dry.
 
since I started swabing w/alcohol my hang fires and mis-fires have increased, at least till ive ran a few shots thru. It doesnt make sense to me why, can anyone shed some light? I always pop a couple caps pre-load also. thanks
 
I would use 91% alcho. lightly and run a pipe cleaner thru the nipple, if you have a gun with one of thope narrow channels twixt the cap and the powder I don't know what to say
 
Loyalist Dave said:
Everclear is drinkable, IF you "step" on it by a minimum of 50%..., and then it's close to moonshine.

IF you have left your house and you discover that you didn't loose your bottle of rubbing alcohol, it's right where you left it at home..., you can pull into most gas stations and buy a bottle of Heat fuel additive..., it's around 100% methanol, and works fine. You can swab your gun, and pour the rest into your tank, as it mixes with residual water so prevents water moisture from freezing up in your fuel line.

HEAT is also a good fuel for some alcohol stoves or spirit burners.

LD
As a biodiesel user, one caution with the methanol: it is quite poisonous, unlike the ethanol found in rubbing alcohol or everclear. It can poison you through skin contact. If you choose to use it, wear gloves and eyewear, maybe even a facemask. A small amount ingested can cause blindness, and the fumes burn with an invisible flame if ignited in a lit area.
 
:thumbsup: 91% is best,,but you can use to much to swab.i jus use a damp patch (but i'm usin a flinter) an i still run a dry patch after alcohol....with a caplock maybe too much alcohol an you are forcing it up towards nipple? try damp then dry the cap before loading...my best guess.. :thumbsup:
 
IMO, too much swabbing is a good way to shove a lot of fouling crud down into areas that need to be open for the gun to fire reliably.

I've also seen folks swabbing their bores by pumping the ramrod up and down the bore. This is a sure way of knocking fouling down into the breech.

To properly swab a bore in my opinion shove the damp (not wet) patch rapidly down the bore and let it sit for a count of 5 to 10 seconds.
Then pull the patch back out of the bore.

The 5-10 second wait gives the wetness a chance to soften the fouling. In this soft condition, removing the patch will drag out almost all of it.

The small amount that might remain won't hurt a thing and the next powder charge will cover all of the vital things at the bottom of the bore so any fouling that might remain on the wall of the bore will be knocked down on top of the powder charge when the next patched ball is rammed home.
 
I think the guys got it, there is a water content to iso-propyl alchohol.
The gun barrel needs to be dry.

At the advice of a Gentelman many new guy's won't know, Bill Knight aka: the Mad Monk,
,I switched over to Denatured Alchohol years back.

It's pure stuff and evaporates quickly. I'll actually pour a little down the bore an slosh it back-n-forth a bit, dump it, then go after the bore with a few dry patches.

Ya just gotta wait till it evaporates or run some dry patches down. It's all about just being sure it's dry down in that flash channel.
 
I've used Ronson Lighter Fluid for years: inexpensive and in a container that efficiently puts a few drops on a patch.
It evaporates without leaving a residue. I've used it in modern guns to degrease chambers and bores. Also degreases small parts. A good degreaser all around.
The flip-top spout is handy for applying drops.
It's also good to put a couple teaspoons in the media of a brass polisher. Really cuts through grease and crud, when coupled with the polishing media, for brass that shines like gold.
It's all I use for degreasing.
 
I've shot in competition with some top shooters who use nothing but rubbing alcohol. Shooting patches wet with alcohol and an alcohol cleaning patch between shots, not sure if it was 70% or 90%
but it sure worked for them. I tried it ,made a gadget to wet my patches just like they used but I still like spit and no cleaning between shots, works better for me.
Deadeye
 
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