Percussion to flint conversion

I’m in the process of converting my Dixie 40 cal percussion to flint. I bought an L&R # 4 lock, the lock plate is close to the old percussion lock but still there are a few spots that are too wide...so how does one correct this small problem?

What is too wide? Is it the lock plate or the lock mortise? You might be able to file the lock plate to fit. Dixie might have had some of the flint locks to replace the percussion lock. They might also have the proper sized vent liner.

There are some spots in the mortise where the L&R shows a gap

jrdavis said:

I’m in the process of converting my Dixie 40 cal percussion to flint. I bought an L&R # 4 lock, the lock plate is close to the old percussion lock but still there are a few spots that are too wide...so how does one correct this small problem?

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Maybe ok on a repro muzzle loader but never on a original of 100plus years which has been converted to percussion using the drum and nipple principle it is part of the guns history , Originals that are reconverted back to flint are mostly done for personal gain .
Feltwad

Feltwad said:

Maybe ok on a repro muzzle loader but never on a original of 100plus years which has been converted to percussion using the drum and nipple principle it is part of the guns history , Originals that are reconverted back to flint are mostly done for personal gain .
Feltwad

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I bought the parts for this gun about 35 years ago the project got put on hold when my company moved me across country it was some years before I got to work on this project, then for some reason, long forgotten, I got back to it but this time wanting it to be flint instead of percussion...i never drilled the barrel for a drum, so that is not a problem .

jrdavis said:

There are some spots in the mortise where the L&R shows a gap

Click to expand...

Well the fellers here who are really "in the know" on such things would help you better if you could post some photos of your problem. One feller's "gap" is another feller's "chasm"...,

Another option is the "gunmakers flint kit" which is a completed lock with an unshaped plate. You may be able to line up the plate from the percussion lock and then shape the plate to be a little oversized for your lock mortise, then slowly reduce it to fit. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/726/1/LOCK-OS-FL-RH

LD

You could glue in shims and re-inlet. If you stain the lock mortise dark they won't show.

Here is my latest shim job for a poorly cut precarve lock mortise.

Since the mortise is too big and you have already spent your money on the lock, Eric's solution of using shims of wood in the same grain direction as the stock will be your solution. Use epoxy stained with your final stock finish to hold the shim in place and the repair will hardly be noticeable. The stain won't take after the epoxy or glue has dried.

Here is. a picture

Ouch.

I once converted a flint Pedersoli to percussion; that's the hard way. I did buy the lock from Pedersoli so it fit perfectly; so perfectly in fact that I alternated hunting with either lock installed. Switching took only a few moments.

Since you have your lock already, I agree that shimming is good advice.

That's not too bad if you envision the final product. Some thin shim work to tighten it up and then the wood finishing should clean it all up. The wood on top is gouged pretty severely, that will be the biggest challenge.