Proper flint orientation/placement ?

[kyron4]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half cock. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

 

[deerstalkert]

but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end.

got it right and said it all!
i have 5 flintlocks, each has its own desires about flint placement. if you have no klatches you have it right. the other factors, such as powder and placement of prime in the pan, the patch thickness and lube type all fall under the "find out what your gun needs"
one thing i will say is you will be reduced to tears if you try to use a black powder replacement (aka as pyrodex, triple 7 etc).
you are also able to use the same powder for prime as you use for main charge.
there will be others along soon.

 

[kyron4]

Good to know. Got a good supply of 2F Goex , which will also be used for the pan.

 

[Jim Evans]

Here is a reference photo for you, and 2F will work in the pan ,but 3F or 4F would be better.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

and never drop the cock without a rock in it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement,

The only "should be" is with respect to where it works best for you and yer rifle gun. That is what "should be". Will take some work and shooting for you to decide where and how to place that flint. But the shooting part is the fun part.

 

[kyron4]

Here is a reference photo for you, and 2F will work in the pan ,but 3F or 4F would be better.
View attachment 131078

My flint bevel is up, if I flip it like picture it will hit higher and in theory produce more sparks. Right now the sparks look plenty good, but like Rifleman1776 said I won't know exactly what is best till I start shooting. That's a way's off for now unfortunately

 

[bldtrailer]

weaken the frizen spring reshape the foot to make it open easier and wider

 

[M. De Land]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half cock. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

What is the caliber? I hear folks say you can prime with the same powder you load with and that is true but finer powder is faster and easier to light. I now use Null-B which is black powder dust, for prime and I can't remember when I've not had the pan fire. That could be a different story if used in damp weather as I have not tried it but so far so good.

 

[M. De Land]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half cock. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

Another good thing for a beginner to learn is how to dress your flint edge with a pointed copper pressure flake tool rather than bang on them with some kind of hammer or crude nipper tool that generally wastes more flint than is used up to make sparks.

 

[Tumbledown]

I use 2F in my Traditions Kentucky. It ignites just fine. The amount and placement in the pan is more important than the grade.

I removed the wave washer in the frizzen's pivot as it was adding an awful lot of friction and keeping it from opening easily (I put a small plain washer in as a spacer.) I also smoothed out the spur riding on the spring, which helped.

 

[Jim Evans]

My flint bevel is up, if I flip it like picture it will hit higher and in theory produce more sparks. Right now the sparks look plenty good, but like Rifleman1776 said I won't know exactly what is best till I start shooting. That's a way's off for now unfortunately

If you are getting good spark leave it till you do some shooting and see how it goes.The bevel down will keep the flint on the frizzen a little longer and may give you more spark.

 

[M. De Land]

Working on my first flintlock kit, a Traditions Kentucky rifle, and while waiting on barrel finish to arrive I 've been "playing " with the lock. I got the 5/8" French amber flint centered in the jaws and it's about 3/32" from the frizzen at half cock. It threw some nice dark orange sparks hitting the frizzen a little above the halfway mark on the frizzen. At final stroke, the flint edge is about level with the top of the pan, maybe slightly below about 3/32" from the bottom of the pan. Does all that seem about right ? From what I read there are a lot of "should be" when it comes to flint placement, but a good shower of sparks is all that matters in the end. Any advice, comments or opinions for a new flint guy ? -Thanks

I like to place the flint in the cock with a rough leather (swede shoe) and screw it down to where snug but will still rotate a bit. Then let the cock down on the frizzen face and let the frizzen orientate the flint face, then finish tightening it. Make sure the inside corner of the flint does not strike the barrel flat above the pan.

 

[DuncNZ]

I often find the new replaced flint will have moved in the jaws as the leather settles down after the first few shots , so I check it for tightness after 3 shots just to be safe

 

[kyron4]

Another good thing for a beginner to learn is how to dress your flint edge with a pointed copper pressure flake tool rather than bang on them with some kind of hammer or crude nipper tool that generally wastes more flint than is used up to make sparks.

What is this and where do I get one ?

 

[kyron4]

View attachment 131184weaken the frizen spring reshape the foot to make it open easier and wider

How "weak" should the spring be ? What exactly are you reshaping, the "tail" or the pivot point that rides on the spring ? Right now everything seems to be working as designed, until I get to shooting and run into issues I'm leery to start making mods. Good info and much appreciated .

 

[deerstalkert]

What is this and where do I get one ?

Flintknapping Supplies, LLC

 

[M. De Land]

What is this and where do I get one ?

I made mine from caribou antler and .200 ground wire from ACE hardware.

 

[toot]

all great advise.

 

[Pilgrim]

I am following this thread. I'm completing my first flintlock (Kibler SMR) and need to learn the skills that go with the rifle.