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Flintlock Completed

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PreserveFreedom

40 Cal.
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I finished building my Traditions Frontier Flintlock today. I did oil the stock, but I left it unstained because I do like a lighter color at times. The kit was supposed to be the hardest level, but it didn't give me much trouble. I am going to have to play with the double trigger adjustments here and there until I get them perfect. Other than that, she throws sparks and I am hoping I can get a case of powder ordered next month so I can get some 4F to put in the pan.

fl001.jpg


fl002.jpg
 
congrats,well that didnt take all that long. you are most likely hooked on flinters, but theres still time to turn back if you havent shot it yet.After that 4f goes off and you hit your target dead on, well its over. you are hopelessly addicted
 
Hey PF what is wrong with the trigger's adjustment? It appears that the triggers are a bit deep in the inlet. Have you tried to add some shims under the trigger bar? I may be seeing it wrong,just appears that way.
 
I, too, think the trigger plate looks a little deep. Maybe there's you trigger problem. Looks good, you're hooked!
 
Mike Brines said:
I, too, think the trigger plate looks a little deep. Maybe there's you trigger problem. Looks good, you're hooked!
Click to expand...
Yep, appears that way to me too. Shim the rear of the plate out a bit to bring the plate close to level, then try the triggers.
 
very nice! everyone is right,after i built my first flint i think my percussion has been gathering dust..have to go check to see if it left me.. :haha:
 
The trigger's not too deep if it works. The stock just didn't have wood removed that should have. Note the lock panels are twice what they should be. Nice application of finis on the wood, and metal.

Bill
 
Looks nice. But, if you don't mind a critique, wood should have been removed from the bottom to make the trigger plate flush. Same with behind the nose cap. Would make whole thing look nicer and give a finished appearance.
Even with wood left light you need something on it for protection. BLO is the most common choice. Pure tung oil probably second. Both will darken slightly.
 
I have found that even with the TOW stocks and similar that there is much wood to remove most everywhere, I was able to drop the top of the buttstovck down about 3/8 inch and still maintain the shape on my fusil this brought my cheek/eye to the place I wanted for a sight picture, some times some of the pre inletting must be altered and the buttplate altered but it can be done on many "kits" I still never really get all the wood off that I would like to though
 

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