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Jr campbell

32 Cal.
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I cleaned my muzzloader with soap and water.Then I used wd40 after that I used barricade.I put the gun up for about 2 months.I was going to go squirrel hunting and run alcohol down it to clean the oil out and got a orange colored patch with rust on it.What could I have done wrong?My patches was clean and dry when I cleaned it.
 
Three Things,
1. you probably didn't get it clean.
2. you used WD-40
3. you didn't recheck it.

Cleaning is very subjective from person to person.

Wd-40 has lead to more guns rusting than any other product I can think of....Some folks can use it just fine but others begin their horror stories with wd-40.

One should always recheck their gun a few days, weeks, months after cleaning....
 
Well, first you need to establish that it is actually rust on the patch and not oxidized oil showing up.
The WD is used after water and dry patching to lift any moisture out of barrel abrasions and pores.
It too should be cleaned out and then the preservative oil should be added.
I have had good success with Gunzilla for the final treatment. I have had zero rust in any of my guns since I began to use it but still believe in water for the first go around in cleaning.
 
I just checked it and run some more oil down it.When I cleaned it the patches was clean and dry before I put oil down it.That why I dont know where the rust came from.I will check it a lot more now for sure.
 
Warm water, little dish soap,15 mins and a little mink oil is all I've ever used and have had good success.
 
I am pretty sure it was rust I got a light to look down the barrel.The plug on the bottom looks a little dark around the outside.But looks spot less across the bottom and sides of the barrel.
 
Why WD-40 sucks at removing water.

The name WD-40 stands for Water displacement Formula #40. This is a misnomer that causes a lot of problems for peole who think it removes water, it doesn't. The main ingredient in Wd-40 is Aliphatic Hydrocarbon, or( Naptha, kerosene, parafin oil) etc...
WD-40 is insoulable in water...Meaning it cant absorb water....So, every bit of water in your barrel, stays in your barrel.
Alcohols on the other hand, like Ethanol, are completely soulable in water....
Alcohol quickly evaporates taking the water with it....WD-40 just sits there in your barrel along with the water and takes a very long time to evaporate.
 
Next time I shoot it I will use water and soap and then alcohol.I have some bumbling bear grease has any tryed this for barrel protection?
 
A note about using water.....
Black powder fouling contains corrosive salts.. The salts, when combined with water form acids.

Brackish cleaning water that dries in the barrel will contain acids.
 
When using Barricade ... a white patch put down the barrel weeks or more later WILL come out orange!

Or least it does for me. Look at the color of Barricade, it is an amber colored liquid!

You killed the salts with the water & WD40 ... don’t worry about a thing. FWIW I switched to this routine of water, WD40 & Barricade 3-years ago after using the trio of water, Ballistol & Barricade for many, many years. I see ZERO difference in my cleaning results and WD40 is much more inexpensive than Ballistol.

FWIW, Ballistol began to cause me respiratory issues whenever used in the aerosol form and in some years I shot 8 or more pounds of powdah up, so that’s a lot of BP cleaning. I still use Ballistol, but only in the liquid form, cut 7:1 w/ water to make the lubed ”˜dry’ patches ala Dutch Schultz method
 
Well, first you need to establish that it is actually rust on the patch and not oxidized oil showing up.

The WD is used after water and dry patching to lift any moisture out of barrel abrasions and pores.

It too should be cleaned out and then the preservative oil should be added.

I have had good success with Gunzilla for the final treatment. I have had zero rust in any of my guns since I began to use it but still believe in water for the first go around in cleaning.
What the Doctor said. My bore lube for stored guns is Militec 1.

My guns went untouched by human hands for as long as two years while i worked overseas: Not a speck of rust.
 
I’ve been using nothing but water, then 91%alcohol then WD40 for many years. Wipe again w WD40 every day for 2-3 days. Been good on some guns not shot for 2-3 years. WD stands for water displacer. Guns are in the safe in heat and cooled area.
 
I check for several days also. Then about once a month or so I do a swab and lightly oiled. I oil my wood about once a season and after a regular cleaning. I remove my pinned barrels once every few years and wax my channels.
 
I’ve been using nothing but water, then 91%alcohol then WD40 for many years. Wipe again w WD40 every day for 2-3 days. Been good on some guns not shot for 2-3 years. WD stands for water displacer. Guns are in the safe in heat and cooled area.
 
I clean with warm to coldish water and a bit of pinesol or dish soap. I clean it, then change out to straight water and plunge it a few times with a fresh patch. Dry patch or two, spray some WD40, then use a patch with some wd40 on it.

I check it the next day, and the next week. I will remove the WD40 and then go to oil if the gun is layed up more than a month.

Also, most 45 cal and up modern (1970+) muzzleloaders have a patent breach. The last inch or so of the barrel in my lyman 54 cal is 36 cal. I use a breech face brush and a 36 cal bore brush to clean it. I do it as I go through each stage. soapy water, straight water, then wd40 patch on the 36 cal brush. I turn it clockwise only, so it does not come unthreaded.

Breech brush on this site.
http://www.rmcoxyoke.com/rmc_cleaning_accessories

CVA, tipton, and pro-shot blackpowder brushes have a loop instead of a crimp to keep the wire body on the threaded end. I use those kinds.
 
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