Question on Applying Birchwood Casey Browning Over Laurel Mountain

[Enfield58]

I tried the Laurel Mountain Browning solution to my Pedersoli Shotgun but the results were not good at all.

I thought it would be easier than the Birchwood Casey solution as it would not require heating the barrels.

Can I degrease the barrels but not remove what’s on them now but apply the Birchwood Casey solution?

I’ve used Birchwood Casey before without any problems and results were beyond my expectations.

A browned barrel is a browned barrel regardless of the solution used to get there. So it should not matter if I apply another solution over the portions of the barrel or all of it that need browned. Am I correct in that assumption?

Please tell me yes as I really don’t want to strip the barrels and start over.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

IIRC, the BC is not a true "rust" brown solution but rather a chemical reaction that creates the "brown" look. I would be hesitant to put one on top of the other without someone that has done it offering their advice. I'm no chemist, but I would buff off whatever is there before applying a different product.

 

[Scota@4570]

Yes,

The rust colored stuff BC makes is really rust. BC is a "quick brown".
Be very careful heating the barrels for the BC. If you get them to hot the solder will melt and you will have a serious problem.

You might try hanging the barrels in the bathroom with warm water in the tub. With your slow brown.

Brownells Oxpho blue looks pretty good if you do it right. Apply it with scotchbright. You will see when it bites. At that point rub it in with a clean cloth saturated with the solution. Use a lot of solution, make a big mess over folded newspapers.

 

[Enfield58]

Yes,

The rust colored stuff BC makes is really rust. BC is a "quick brown".
Be very careful heating the barrels for the BC. If you get them to hot the solder will melt and you will have a serious problem.

You might try hanging the barrels in the bathroom with warm water in the tub. With your slow brown.

Brownells Oxpho blue looks pretty good if you do it right. Apply it with scotchbright. You will see when it bites. At that point rub it in with a clean cloth saturated with the solution. Use a lot of solution, make a big mess over folded newspapers.

I've only heated barrels up to a little more than 200 degrees F in the past. The instructions say 275 F. So I don't think getting them that hot would cause the solder to melt.

When I applied the Laurel Mountain solution, I did hang them in the bathroom with a pot of water on a hot plate. I had the temperature on the hot plate set just high enough for steam to come out of the pot. It was really humid in the bathroom.

I was wanting to avoid the blue but with the barrels already browned (more or less) I don't think I want to change to a blue.

 

[tenngun]

If you brown over pre browned spots it will give you a mottled lock to your brown, slow or fast the barrels need be ‘fresh’.

 

[Scota@4570]

I always use maroon scotchbrite to apply initial coats of browning or blueing solutions. When the solution bites evenly I use clean cotton cloth. This sequence will eliminate most unevenness in the finish.

"I've only heated barrels up to a little more than 200 degrees F in the past. The instructions say 275 F. So I don't think getting them that hot would cause the solder to melt. "

That would not melt the solder but it is not not enough to work with BC properly.

Fill the bathtub with warm water and keep the room warm, maybe a space heater. You want hot and humid with no condensation.

 

[SDSmlf]

I tried the Laurel Mountain Browning solution to my Pedersoli Shotgun but the results were not good at all.
..............
Can I degrease the barrels but not remove what’s on them now but apply the Birchwood Casey solution?

What were issues you had? I’ve used Laurel Mountain to brown and blue a number of barrels with good success.

Curious if you are trying to brown one of the guns that Pedersoli finished with Cerakote? Have not seen it on a shotgun yet, only on a rifle. Might be tough to get down to the bare metal for the browning solution to get a good bite.

I am not a fan of the Birchwood Casey for browning, but believe you are best starting with a clean, down to a bare steel surface before applying it or the Laurel Mountain.

 

[Enfield58]

What were issues you had? I’ve used Laurel Mountain to brown and blue a number of barrels with good success.

Curious if you are trying to brown one of the guns that Pedersoli finished with Cerakote? Have not seen it on a shotgun yet, only on a rifle. Might be tough to get down to the bare metal for the browning solution to get a good bite.

I am not a fan of the Birchwood Casey for browning, but believe you are best starting with a clean, down to a bare steel surface before applying it or the Laurel Mountain.

I was getting a mottled look in the middle portion of both barrels. The breech and muzzle ends of the barrels looked good.

I don't know what Pedersoli did to brown their barrels looked like it was painted on. I stripped it off with a paint stripper then cleaned and & degreased the barrels before browning.

No matter how much I reapplied the browning the middle portions of the barrels still had a mottled appearance.

I would show photos but can't get them to do any justice to the actual appearance of the barrels.

I suppose I could keep reapplying the Laurel Mountain solution till I get the desired results but I did that about 7-8 times before giving up. Should I keep reapplying the solution instead of the Birchwood Casey?