Modifying Chambers Traditional Oil Finish to slow drying

[Antelope Pete]

I have been trying to get a hold of Chambers with a question and can't get an answer so I thought someone here might know. The question is can boiled linseed oil be added to slow down the drying time a little. Here in Colorado it's dry and I'm hurrying to get a coat on in about 15 - 20 minutes but to me that's a rush and it's still starting to get sticky. I'm thinking 1 to 4 or 1 to 3 parts linseed oil to Finish. I think it has linseed in it and it says on the can that it's compatible with most old finishes.

 

[EC121]

Try some on a scrap!!

 

[Phil Coffins]

Perhaps the way you put it on is the issue. I use oil finish that each coat can be applied in less the five minutes. The finish goes on very thin and produces anything from dull to very shiny.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Chamber’s oil is to be flooded, then wipe off. Drying time is 24 hours. How much slower do you need it to be?

 

[Antelope Pete]

Thanks everybody.

EC121
That's a good idea I might try that, can't hurt.

Phil Coffins
I tried to be faster but I guess my technique's just not there. I for one don't think I could do a decent job if I try to go that fast. I'm just slow and awkward I guess.

Flintandsteel
That is the way I am doing it. It's not the full dry time it's the working time I'm having the problem with. I too let it dry for 24 hours.

I did get with Chambers and was told adding a little boiled linseed oil would be fine since that and tung oil are in the finish.

 

[Scota@4570]

I speculate.........
,
I would not add BLO, especially hardware store BLO. You will have a sticky mess. The finish portion will dry and the BLO will remain sticky.

Dilute it with mineral spirits. Work small areas and move on. Drying to fast is a good problem to have. I should lock into getting some.

But, I have no experience with that particular product. Call Chambers and ask.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Chambers oil is absolutely the easiest and most user friendly finish to use. If you are flooding the finish, and wiping off, I Dont understand why it’s drying before you can wipe it off.
I’ve used it for nearly 20 years, in dry Arizona, and NEVER had that problem.
Maybe your finish is old?

 

[Antelope Pete]

I did the 4th coat and got it down to 15 minutes but 5 min. is out of the question. I went back over the 3rd coat carefully with some 0000 steel wool and really like the look. This stuff makes a really nice finish no problem there and I guess that's all that matters.

Scota@4570
I'll just use it without any BLO. I like BLO and used it on a gun 25 years ago without issues. It's actually kind of therapeutic and relaxing to use.

Flintandsteel
I'm flooding the whole stock from butt to nose cap and then wiping it off starting at the butt and working forward and by the time I'm almost done it's getting sticky. I have found if I go back over the sticky area with some more it wipes off ok so that helps.

I'm thinking 6 coats how many coats do you guys usually do?

 

[Flintandsteel]

You should be getting pretty close.
I don’t sand between coats, as is suggested. Instead, I apply additional coats with a Maroon scotchbrite pad.
Here’s what it looks like on Pear wood.

 

[PHolder]

Over at another forum this was posted by his daughter regarding thinning:
When talking about Mineral Spirits & Paint Thinners, "Going Green" completely goes against our "Traditional" oil finish.

Do NOT thin, mix, clean brushes or applicator tools or wipe wood surfaces with products labeled as: “Low-VOC Mineral Spirits”, “Green Mineral Spirits”, “Low-VOC Multi-purpose Solvents”, or “Low-Odor Mineral Spirits”. These types of solvents are not at all compatible with the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.

Many of these solvents/cleaners contain up to 50% water and surfactants and/or they are blends of VOC-compliant solvents and acetone. Acetone is not a suitable solvent with our finish and any products with water in them will raise
the grain of bare wood.

ONLY USE products labeled “100% aliphatic hydrocarbon solvent” or “100% petroleum distillates” when using the Chambers Traditional Oil Finish.

 

[wiscoaster]

....
I tried to be faster but I guess my technique's just not there.

Maybe you're trying to do too much yourself instead of just letting the oil work? Hand apply it fast and thin, leave it alone for a while to soak and level, (position your work so you don't get runners), then IF there's any excess, wipe, ... OR apply more if all soaked in. Fast, thin, by hand, and leave it alone are the keys to technique, IMO. But there's a thousand different techniques and methods, most of them work pretty well in the end.

 

[PHolder]

You should be getting pretty close.
I don’t sand between coats, as is suggested. Instead, I apply additional coats with a Maroon scotchbrite pad.
Here’s what it looks like on Pear wood.View attachment 316751

That is beautiful!!! Never thought of using pear.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Thanks for the responses I appreciate the input.
Flintandsteel
That looks very nice. Pearwood is definitely unique, don't hear much about using that. The finish looks very nice too.

PHolder
Those are in the instructions I got with the finish but was told I could add boiled linseed. I'm so close now that I probably won't.

wiscoaster
I would love to do that but the thinner it is the faster it dries at least here. The other day we had humidity at 11% which isn't unusual. Sometimes single digits.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

You might try putting the finish on one side of the stock at a time. When that side dries enough to handle do the other side. I've done that and it can make things easier.

 

[wiscoaster]

..... The other day we had humidity at 11% which isn't unusual. Sometimes single digits.

Adding a little BLO isn't going to hurt, and sometimes one just has to experiment to find out what works best (or better), in 11% humidity

 

[Antelope Pete]

Crisco Kid
Thanks that's a good idea I'll try that on the next one if I do another one. I think one more coat tomorrow and done. 6 should work.

wiscoaster
That's what I thought too. It already has linseed and tung oil in it so why not.

Thanks guys.

 

[wiscoaster]

Keep us posted on how it works for you, please.

 

[poker]

I use truoil and naptha or lighter fluid thins it out nice.

 

[Antelope Pete]

Well, I got it done and it's no masterpiece mind you but for my level of inability it came out ok. 6 coats and rubbed back with 0000 steel wool. It does seem like a durable finish and if I ever do another gun I would use it again. Just takes some getting used to going fast. Thanks for the advice from everybody.

 

[wiscoaster]

Give it a week or so to cure and put a coat of paste wax on it.
Thanks for the update. Good to know it turned out well.