Build advice

[Celt5494]

The progress thus far has been the barrel was blued using Brownell's Oxpho paste. It turned out nicer than I expected and was really easy. I might apply another coating after smoothing it over with some 00 steel wool. I'm not exactly positive yet because it looks really nice thus far. I did a mockup fitting all of the furniture and everything fits really nice. I did remove a very small amount too much wood in the front at the bottom of the lock but I can always fill that in if needed. It's pretty minimal. I got the stock sanded down baby smooth and applied a few light rubbings using boiled linseed oil. Everything soaked in really well with no noticeable drips or uneven damp spots. I'm going to let it dry a good 24 hours then do a very light sanding with some 1200 grit paper if it looks dry enough. I'll hit it again with more boiled linseed oil and maybe repeat this three or so more times each day until I like the results. I've not decided on what wax I want to apply to to the stock as I'm really liking the lighter colors the oil is bringing out and not sure that I want to make it very much darker.

 

[Celt5494]

I have also read several times...dont remember where, that stocks would be placed in a tub of heated linseed oil for a couple weeks....I think it was for Brown Bess stocks, but I have also heard that they used a mixture.

I have done that with my hawk handles and had great results. I used some PVC pipe with a caps drooping the handles in them pouring the boiled linseed oil in. After a week or so I pulled them out and wiped them off letting them air dry. Seemed to help prevent them from splitting on a bad throw and didn't seem to have the hawk head slipping off the handle in really dry conditions.

 

[tenngun]

If its the Traditions Blunderbuss (like this)
View attachment 283891

I am on the same path as you just a few steps ahead, so my thinking is:
#1: I though about doing it in Plum Brown as I like my Kentucky Rifle turned out, but I'm being lazy and going to try cold blue (Perma Blue). If it doesn't work out, I will strip it and try something else. I do plan to blue the inside the muzzle as its over 2" wide on a .54 cal smoothbore.
View attachment 283908
#2: I have some Tru Oil, so after a medium to dark stain, that's the path I'm taking but I don't see why boiled linseed oil and wax would not work.
#3: A small file and an assortment of sand paper with different shaped backers (paint sticks and dowels) to match contours is what I am using. Make sure to take the time to go though the grits and remove the previous grits scratches.

Happy building

That’s not a very historical blunderbuss. So you don’t need to get in to the weeds on finish. IMHO a good dark brown is tge prettiest finish, most back in the day would be blue although charcoal blue was more of a high dollar finish, or plain in the white for more average guns
Linseed is a good finish. When properly applied it’s very water resistant and looks deep, it’s about the prettiest finish one can put on wood.
But was rare back in the day. And you can get a lot easier oil finishes that are better
Step one. Soak down the stock with oil, set aside for a month
Buff the stock now, now with just enough oil on your finger tips oil the stock, it’s very minimal. Rub it till heat develops with the palm of your hand
Repeat every day for a week
Then once a week for a month
Thirteen coats total only the first heavy everything there after minimal
Now you can wax
Then you can shoot
In a rain or even high humidity the wood can get sticky and needs to be buffed with soft rag.
Reoil at least once a month from then on. If you note sticky buff with soft cloth and wax
From both on high humidity or rain will make it sticky. But when done it will be beautiful
However not any more so then other finishes and they go on easier and are more protective
Linspeed oil from track of the wolf or birchwood casy tru oil will give you a rich oil finish in a week

 

[Oldbear63]

The progress thus far has been the barrel was blued using Brownell's Oxpho paste. It turned out nicer than I expected and was really easy. I might apply another coating after smoothing it over with some 00 steel wool. I'm not exactly positive yet because it looks really nice thus far. I did a mockup fitting all of the furniture and everything fits really nice. I did remove a very small amount too much wood in the front at the bottom of the lock but I can always fill that in if needed. It's pretty minimal. I got the stock sanded down baby smooth and applied a few light rubbings using boiled linseed oil. Everything soaked in really well with no noticeable drips or uneven damp spots. I'm going to let it dry a good 24 hours then do a very light sanding with some 220 grit paper if it looks dry enough. I'll hit it again with more boiled linseed oil and maybe repeat this three or so more times each day until I like the results. I've not decided on what wax I want to apply to to the stock as I'm really liking the lighter colors the oil is bringing out and not sure that I want to make it very much darker.

Luthiers (violin makers) as well as many historical furniture makers used linseed oil extensively as a first coat, applying a harder coat or shellac over that. Oil finishes were supposed to bring out the 3D quality of a good figured wood. One way to accelerate linseed oil drying is to treat it with UV light. Historically they used sunlight, but today many violin makers will use a black-light cabinet. You can use a poster lamp or a sterilizing lamp, but please be careful with the dangerous short wave lights like sterilizing lamps as they can cause blindness.
In the sun you may need to expose wood for a while, perhaps a week in good light.
You could also add a dryer, though boiled linseed oil already has a drier in it. Japan dryer or cobalt dryer can be added, but I don't know the concentration or the issues with using too much.
Most quality commercial finishes probably have an oil like linseed or tung oil with the correct amount of dryer already in it.

 

[CzarJL]

That’s not a very historical blunderbuss. So you don’t need to get in to the weeds on finish.

I disagree, it a absolutely historical correct.... just to Tom Turk and Daffy (Warner Bros. Looney Tunes, 1944)
I got mine for two reasons 1) It looked like it would be fun to shoot 2) to be able to improve my skills at finishing (just need find time to work on it).

Sounds like it going well, would love to see pictures.

 

[Celt5494]

Luthiers (violin makers) as well as many historical furniture makers used linseed oil extensively as a first coat, applying a harder coat or shellac over that. Oil finishes were supposed to bring out the 3D quality of a good figured wood. One way to accelerate linseed oil drying is to treat it with UV light. Historically they used sunlight, but today many violin makers will use a black-light cabinet. You can use a poster lamp or a sterilizing lamp, but please be careful with the dangerous short wave lights like sterilizing lamps as they can cause blindness.
In the sun you may need to expose wood for a while, perhaps a week in good light.
You could also add a dryer, though boiled linseed oil already has a drier in it. Japan dryer or cobalt dryer can be added, but I don't know the concentration or the issues with using too much.
Most quality commercial finishes probably have an oil like linseed or tung oil with the correct amount of dryer already in it.

Thanks for the comments. I suspect this brand of boiled linseed oil I put on yesterday has a good drying accelerant because I applied four light coats rubbing them in throughout the day then left the stock to air dry in the living room. When I checked it the stock seems dry as can be but I'm going to wait until this evening to rub another coat into it then let sit overnight again. This morning it was still very smooth so I'm not sure that even a light sanding is necessary but I'll judge that as I move forward. I have tossed around the idea of a hard finishing coat like a shellac depending upon what the color of the grain takes on with this linseed oil. I may do a very light natural wood stain then a hard coat after it dries. Not sure, oh decisions, decisions. Much appreciate your input!

 

[Celt5494]

I disagree, it a absolutely historical correct.... just to Tom Turk and Daffy (Warner Bros. Looney Tunes, 1944)
I got mine for two reasons 1) It looked like it would be fun to shoot 2) to be able to improve my skills at finishing (just need find time to work on it).

Sounds like it going well, would love to see pictures.

I believe it is going well and am very happy with everything. I started thinking I should have taken some photos from start to finish but missed that opportunity. I'll see if I can't get some photos tonight or tomorrow and post them up here.

 

[Tenring]

Brook’s was correct when he stated they were usually in the bright , when I re-enacted with the Third Maryland Battalion during the colonial fair in Charlestown MD. Years and years ago the company carried two of them one was original and one was a repro by Kieth Albright if I remember correctly and they were both in the bright.