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Loading with a Steel Range Rod

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Johnny Too-Tall

62 Cal.
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
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After having a ramrod break off and stab through my hand 1.5 miles back hunting in a swamp and having to wrap my hand in a cut up t-shirt and walk out dripping blood and getting 7 stiches from it - I now never load any of my muzzleloaders with a wood rod. If I'm on a range or woods walk I always load with a steel range rod, or if I'm hunting I have a synthetic rod i use. The wood rods are just for show for me at this point in my life as I simply don't trust them.

Anyways I had a fellow muzzleloader guy (self proclaimed) tell me last night while I was practicing for Friendship coming up in a few weeks, that its very dangerous to use a steel rod. He said the steel from the rod rubbing on steel muzzle can create a spark and ignite the powder. I asked him how it would get past the tight fitting patch and round ball to even get to the powder in the first place and was told that I couldn't load with a steel rod on the range, and that's why "Unmentionable ML's" use aluminum rods, and that a steel rod is designed for cleaning the barrel only. I finished ramming the last ball home fired it off and left. I guess I won't be back to that range anymore. Question is am I wrong? It's also not a written rule anywhere to be found for the range either that are posted up everywhere.

PS this was a local state ran range and the guy worked for the state, and came down to make sure I paid my daily fee to shoot.
 
Most muskets have steel ramrods, so I think the spark thing is out the window. If I intended to use one with a rifle, I'd use a muzzle protector.
Not to be a jerk or anything but where you choking up on the wooden one, I've never seen someone break a wooden rod unless they are grasping it to high.
 
Most muskets have steel ramrods, so I think the spark thing is out the window. If I intended to use one with a rifle, I'd use a muzzle protector.
Not to be a jerk or anything but where you choking up on the wooden one, I've never seen someone break a wooden rod unless they are grasping it to high.

The wooden ram rod broke off about 4" from the muzzle and my hand was right above it. There was about 18 inches or ram rod left outside the gun. Now this was on a very cold winter day in Michigan too - not sure if the cold led to it. Also the gun was a 54 cal and preferred a .535 ball and .018 pillow ticking, which was a tight load.

The steel rod I use does have a brass muzzle guide on it.
 
The wooden ram rod broke off about 4" from the muzzle and my hand was right above it. There was about 18 inches or ram rod left outside the gun. Now this was on a very cold winter day in Michigan too - not sure if the cold led to it. Also the gun was a 54 cal and preferred a .535 ball and .018 pillow ticking, which was a tight load.

The steel rod I use does have a brass muzzle guide on it.
Thanks got it.
 
A steel rod rubbing on a steel barrel and causing a spark is a load of bull.... Amazing what people will come up with. :doh:

I use steel range rods with a muzzle protector for my muzzleloaders when I can. I make steel cored ramrods with an outer layer of wood when I can't (competitions that want PC appearance). I think it would take a lifetime for any rod to cause wear on a muzzle. My personal opinion is that a soft rod material (wood, brass, aluminum) can get grit embedded in the material and that is what causes any wear--not the rod itself. I make sure I clean my rods as thoroughly as my barrels.

My 2 cents worth....
 
A steel rod rubbing on a steel barrel and causing a spark is a load of bull.... Amazing what people will come up with. :doh:

I use steel range rods with a muzzle protector for my muzzleloaders when I can. I make steel cored ramrods with an outer layer of wood when I can't (competitions that want PC appearance). I think it would take a lifetime for any rod to cause wear on a muzzle. My personal opinion is that a soft rod material (wood, brass, aluminum) can get grit embedded in the material and that is what causes any wear--not the rod itself. I make sure I clean my rods as thoroughly as my barrels.

My 2 cents worth....
I seen your rods - Do you sell them?? I'd be interested in a few depending on cost.
 
After having a ramrod break off and stab through my hand 1.5 miles back hunting in a swamp and having to wrap my hand in a cut up t-shirt and walk out dripping blood and getting 7 stiches from it - I now never load any of my muzzleloaders with a wood rod. If I'm on a range or woods walk I always load with a steel range rod, or if I'm hunting I have a synthetic rod i use. The wood rods are just for show for me at this point in my life as I simply don't trust them.

Anyways I had a fellow muzzleloader guy (self proclaimed) tell me last night while I was practicing for Friendship coming up in a few weeks, that its very dangerous to use a steel rod. He said the steel from the rod rubbing on steel muzzle can create a spark and ignite the powder. I asked him how it would get past the tight fitting patch and round ball to even get to the powder in the first place and was told that I couldn't load with a steel rod on the range, and that's why "Unmentionable ML's" use aluminum rods, and that a steel rod is designed for cleaning the barrel only. I finished ramming the last ball home fired it off and left. I guess I won't be back to that range anymore. Question is am I wrong? It's also not a written rule anywhere to be found for the range either that are posted up everywhere.

PS this was a local state ran range and the guy worked for the state, and came down to make sure I paid my daily fee to shoot.
GEEZE Edith!

Your friend is a moron!
Tell him military muskets all had steel ram rods.
 
When using the wooden rod I use looser load combinations.

Another option is fiberglass. Cover it with shrink tubing that has the hot melt glue inside. Maybe 9mm fiberglass with shrink tube, there are places that sell fiberglass and carbon fiber rods that look promising.

A naked fiberglass rod is abrasive and may injure your hand when worn. I was able to wear a coned muzzle into a TC with a fiberglass rod in a dusty environment. I shot that rifle a lot when I was a kid.

I now use steel rods I make. I make a muzzle guide out of brass. I prefer polished hardened steel. 1/4" is plenty strong. It is spring temper. You can not bend it. You can get that at music wire. It needs to be cut with carbide to add an outsert that is drilled and tapped for the accessories. Golf balls make excellent knobs.

https://ksmetals.com/collections/36-long-music-wire
I have heard it argued that aluminum and brass can pick up grit thus acting like a lap.
 
I use a steel range rod with a brass muzzle guard and a 4" swiveling wood handle on top. I made it from a 3/8"x36" steel rod, drilled and tapped on each end. Brass jag is "loctited" in place and a 4" section of old broomstick was used as the handle. When woods walking or hunting I use the guns wood ramrod.
 
After having a ramrod break off
I have a scar on my right palm from my mis-use from 25yrs ago also.(it's a big one)
I can't blame the rod. But I shy away from wood as nothing but decorative to this day.
I have wood installed on the guns and use them in the field, but I'm not shooting 50 shots for score while I'm hunting.
I use steel range rods with brass muzzle cones for weekend `vous shooting and the same for cleaning.
Your sparky friend is goofy.
 
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