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So can we sling a round ball out of it, or not? Last I saw from Jim, he didn't recommend it. And what's the reason Walnut is recommended?
He did recommend the 20 gauge for shooting balls. I would guess the barrels for the 20 and the 16 would have the same outside profiles, so with the larger bore, you would have a lighter weight gun, a thinner barrel wall, and a much heavier ball with (most likely) a heavier charge. I expect recoil would be substantial, as well as stress on the barrel. He didn't say you couldn't shoot balls out of the 16... He just recommended the 20. The man put a lot of effort into developing this kit and he knows his guns. I would take his recommendations seriously.

Respectfully, this gun is being marketed as a fowling piece. It is intended and designed for shooting primarily small shot. Personally, if I wanted to shoot mainly ball loads, I would prefer a gun designed for that purpose, but that's just me.

I suspect Mr. Kibler recommends walnut because this is an essentially an English gun, and as a rule, the gunmakers over yonder did not use maple or cherry. They probably would not have used American black walnut, either, but most people (including me) would not know the difference between American or English walnut in a finished gun. I guess you could make up a story about doing a re-stocking job here in the colonies if you want maple and you're concerned about authenticity. I know that was done on occasion.

Notchy Bob
 
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Nice kit, but I dont care for the barrel profile.... Thats just me.
Taste is one thing, but just know this is the appropriate barrel for this gun to be historically correct. It is a very common profile on original guns of this style and period. Sometime what we find appealing is just a function of what is typically seen. Not many mainstream modern guns use this profile. I encourage everyone to study original work.
 
He did recommend the 20 gauge for shooting balls. I would guess the barrels for the 20 and the 16 would have the same outside profiles, so with the larger bore, you would have a lighter weight gun, a thinner barrel wall, and a much heavier ball with (most likely) a heavier charge. I expect recoil would be considerable, as well as stress on the barrel. He didn't say you couldn't shoot balls out of the 16... He just recommended the 20. The man put a lot of effort into developing this kit and he knows his guns. I would take his recommendations seriously.

Respectfully, this gun is being marketed as a fowling piece. It is intended and designed for shooting primarily small shot. Personally, if I wanted to shoot mainly ball loads, I would prefer a gun designed for that purpose, but that's just me.

I suspect Mr. Kibler recommends walnut because this is an essentially an English gun, and as a rule, the gunmakers over yonder did not use maple or cherry. They probably would not have used American black walnut, either, but most people (including me) would not know the difference between American or English walnut in a finished gun. I guess you could make up a story about doing a re-stocking job here in the colonies if you want maple and you're concerned about authenticity. I know that was done on occasion.

Notchy Bob
Well said Notchy Bob!
 
I was just going to say that. I feel certain that barrel is historically correct, but in all my studies over the years, I never saw a three-section barrel. I'm gonna pass.
I'm still new to smooth bores and I'm still learning. But that barrel profile is different than anything I've seen yet. The Octagon to round with the wedding band looks really good to me. I think those originals he had on the table had the 3 section barrel profile. I'll have to go back and watch it again.
 
The 20 gauge will have thicker barrel walls due to the outside diameters for both the 16 and 20 are the same.
? Yes I understand this. Yet if one shoots the same payload why the pressure worries.
I would likely never shoot a round ball.
Nevermind the 20. I would feel just as safe with the round ball as I would the same weight shot charge.
 

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