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Maybe a silly question....My wife is used to them...but historically for this firearms purpose, what were the most common barrel sizes, and intended game use? I know certainly "intended game use" was often circumstantial....I have read many accounts of bear/deer etc. getting blasted by whatever rifle was had, despite the often anemic bore size....
What was the most common smooth bore size for hunting in this era/ region? not especially for just this particular recreation....
 
The barrel is very smooth. Don't let the pictures fool you. Sometimes photos can be really misleading. The bores are professionally produced by Rice (the best in the business) and are everything anybody could want. Again, trust us!

I can honestly say, don't worry about trying to look out for yourself. We have you covered!
I'm not sure I could accept that from any other company, and certainly not any government agency. But having dealt with Mr. Kibler, I will take him at his word.
 
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English walnut is the proper wood for these guns. Maple isn’t. I’ve never seen one of this period stocked in maple. We have sucomed to pressure and offer it.

English is generally very expensive and not readily available, so we offer black walnut. Not all black walnut is highly porous. We will be offering a stain kit to more closely mimic English walnut.

If we can find good sources offering English Walnut at reasonable prices, this will be an option. I’m not holding my breath about reasonable prices…
 
English walnut is the proper wood for these guns. Maple isn’t. I’ve never seen one of this period stocked in maple. We have sucomed to pressure and offer it.

English is generally very expensive and not readily available, so we offer black walnut. Not all black walnut is highly porous. We will be offering a stain kit to more closely mimic English walnut.

If we can find good sources offering English Walnut at reasonable prices, this will be an option. I’m not holding my breath about reasonable prices…
I, for one, thank you for what you've done for the muzzle loading community.
 
Will soon be getting rid of things that don't need caps or flints. Very Soon. Will definitely go 20 Walnut. I too eagerly await ease of building and final pics. OMG what if he offers cannons? OMG I need a cannon, could sell the truck?, nope need truck to pull cannon, wife never drives, sell the van, Yep. Can we list caravans in the classifieds if they come with a tin of caps?
 
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A bit more ranting…. Use a rifle for ball and the fowling piece for shot. A very important feature of original fowling guns is a thin walled barrel. The O.D. Of both the 20 and 16 gauge are the same. Choose 16 gauge to have a proper thin walled barrel.
Thanks for putting up with us Jim, your batting a 1,000.
 
I noticed one of the descriptions said the breech plug is included. I also noticed that the front sight and barrel tennons would be soldered to the barrel. Is the breech plug installed when it ships?
 
English walnut is the proper wood for these guns. Maple isn’t. I’ve never seen one of this period stocked in maple. We have sucomed to pressure and offer it.

English is generally very expensive and not readily available, so we offer black walnut. Not all black walnut is highly porous. We will be offering a stain kit to more closely mimic English walnut.

If we can find good sources offering English Walnut at reasonable prices, this will be an option. I’m not holding my breath about reasonable prices…
for what it is worth….. you sold at least one 16 gauge fowler because you offered it in extra fancy maple.
I can’t imagine caring about the gun having a period. This is my 3rd Kibler. I buy them to hunt with. It will end up with a semi gloss finish and a deep blue barrel and lock. The only person that has to like it is me.

Thanks for building what I wanted
 
I wanna shoot both too but I am not a powernut. Would load light as I always do. Black Powder guns will never be on par with CF, I shoot 75 gr in my .58 and its always dropped my elk/deer within site. Last years cow elk was 70 gr in a .54. Didn't go any further than if I had used 120 gr (45 yards). Most accurate load ALWAYS. And, (sorry Nathan) I shoot 1F in my 20 GA. Best patterns and dead turkeys are my excuse.
 
I'll most likely use mine for squirrel, rabbit, flying things, and Turkey's. I had just always thought these were the gun people had when they could only afford one gun. So they shot the projectile needed depending on the game. Maybe that was a trade gun or Fusil or something. I mean these are a "Fowler" so there's that. Maybe my wires are all crossed.
 
A bit more ranting…. Use a rifle for ball and the fowling piece for shot. A very important feature of original fowling guns is a thin walled barrel. The O.D. Of both the 20 and 16 gauge are the same. Choose 16 gauge to have a proper thin walled barrel.
I totally agree, but I have a bunch of rifles. And if I did not, I would use buckshot.

My question, why would the pressure be different with a round ball as opposed to a shot load of the same weight? Friction?

Another question, the .54 Woodsrunner carries great balancing perfectly in the hand. The .40 SMR balances forward and although lighter is more bothersome to tote.
How does the 16 compare to the 20, in regards to balancing on the forearm.
Yes, I am old and lazy.

Last question, where is my pistol?
 
The only difference I see in terms of pressure is how tight the load is and the tendency for heavy charges with a ball in order to attempt to get decent ballistics.

Sure you can shoot a ball out of a fowling piece, but it’s really not what these were developed and designed for.

Fowling guns, fowling pieces etc…. Designed to shoot shot.
 

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