Homemade Patch Lube?

[mzloder]

I live in Western New York, about 60 miles south of buffalo, 8 miles from the Pennsylvania border. Deer season runs from Mid-November until the week of Christmas (if you hunt with a muzzleloader :wink: ). Temps run anywhere from -10 F to 40-50 F.The Dutch Schoultz "dry patch" has not failed me. I've heard "Wetter is Better" in the dry air of winter but my results have convinced me otherwise. Until someone can show me something better, easier, more accurate (none of which is likely to happen), I'll stick with Dutch's system.

For those of you who have not tried it, whatever the reason, you really owe it to yourself to do so! It costs $19.95 to get the information. I don't know about you guys, but I can whizz away $20 going thru the candy aisle at Wal-mart! It's only 20 bucks! What it does for your groups is astounding! Check it out!
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

 

[Ontario Hawken]

If you"d like a small handy case for holding non-lubed or prelubed patches get some watchmakers cases from Lee Valley Tools in the 1 1/4 inch diameter size.
www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=44948&cat=1,43326,44948

They are cheap, see-through and have a lid to keep out grime and dirt. I can fit 22 patches in each case.

I prelube patches and stack them in the cases. I keep one in my possibles bag and in winter in the breast pocket of my coat to keep the patches from freezing.

 

[DarenN]

i'm useing the two inch L/V watchmakers cases, and stacking my pre-lubed patches in an over-lapping spiral. i've gotten sixty patches in one with room to spare.

 

[longcruise]

Doesn't squeezing the patch and ball in the board squeeze out the lube? Especially since they might be in there a long time.

That's pretty much a function of the size of the hole in the ball board. You can use the drill size guide for the various calibers but I always make mine so the ball and patch are a pretty loose fit. They push in easily with finger pressure but are just tight enough that the ball does not fall out. that way you can drip any liquid lube you might be using on the patch and ball just before loading out of the board. And, for grease lube, the looser fit does not force the lube out of the patch.

One other question i've wondered about. Doesn't a lubed patch contaminate the powder?

Depends on how heavily lubed and how long left loaded. My grease lubes are applied sparingly to avoid contamination.

Here's a question to ask yourself; "why do we lube the patch?" When you come up with your answer then you will know exactly how you want to lube. Not trying to be a smart a$$. :surrender:

 

[arcticap]

I like the viscosity of Bore Butter and I've found that the mineral oil in it does help to dissolve fouling and to keep it soft.
It may not be perfect but rarely is anything else either.

 

[shmrck1]

Scott,
Just about all B/P shooters have a patch
lube that works for them...From spit to
Moose snot.Find the one that works for you.
IMHO...No gun..no shooter...no powder..no patch
or no patch lube works for us all!
It is all those variables that make B/P shooting
what it is.Challenging :hmm: Again IMHO

 

[Snow on the Roof]

Of late I've found a mix of 4 parts olive oil to 1 part bee's wax with a "bit" of Murphy's Oil Soap works very well for hunting even in colder weather. For early season and summer shooting I use closer to 50-50 mix. Except when hunting I cut patches at the muzzle and use the summer lube. Hunting I use a loading block cutting and lubing the patch on the block. I often dab a bit of lube on the patch side of the loading block but often change the loads due to contamination from my pocket or shooting pouch.

Snow

 

[saber]

been useing rendered black bear fat for 40 yrs work good on patches and on metal

 

[lakota]

I have been using 5:1 water/ballistol and I like it so far. I have some Moose Juice mixed up. How dry are the patches supposed to be? Mine still feel pretty oily. Maybe the humidity was too high for a 24 hour dry time?

 

[Stumpkiller]

I'm happy when they look dry but leave your fingers oily when you handle them.

 

[lakota]

Mine need some more dry time for sure then.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Put the strips of fabric on wax paper on a board, or cookie sheet to dry in the SUN. Any sunny window, even the rear window of a car parked out in the sunlight will get the job done. You can turn the strips over in an hour to speed up the evaporation of the water. :thumbsup:

 

[Fishhog]

Whats the trick to keep pre cuts from rolling up as the dry and wrinkle...Ray

 

[paulvallandigham]

Put those patches in a closed container, or in plastic bag,with as much air removed as possible, and then seal it. Patches curl because you are using a water based lube, and the water evaporates when the patches are left out in open air. Patches lubed with an oil/wax/soap mix do not tend to curl over time, as there is no water to evaporate.

You can reverse the "curl" by simply applying fresh lube to these patches. I do recommend taking one of them and stretching it in different directions to test how strong the patch still is. If the patch tears easily, throw them out, and lube up some fresh patches.

Bacteria need food( the fabric in the patch), warmth-( anything over 38 Degrees Fahrenheit), and moisture to survive, grow, and reproduce. All those things are present with pre-lubed patches, especially those lubed with a water based lube. The moisture is often in the air around the patches when they are not stored properly.

If you have one of those machines that create vacuums in plastic bags, that is the Best way to store pre-lubed patches for long periods of time. Storing them in a freezer, which slows down bacterial growth will also contribute to longer Life of your patches.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

you might have some laying around so try it if you do, go-jo 'white' or other hand cleaner - 'goop' brand comes in a handy tube. 1$ at dollar general
be sure to get the 'white' not the type with pumice in it. handy for clean-up too. I take a tube when camping to wipe down with.
just a small dab for a prb is all required
I've shot over 2 dozen shots before a wipe/brush of the bore is needed.

 

[Chiefs50]

you might have some laying around so try it if you do, go-jo 'white' or other hand cleaner - 'goop' brand comes in a handy tube. 1$ at dollar general
be sure to get the 'white' not the type with pumice in it. handy for clean-up too. I take a tube when camping to wipe down with.
just a small dab for a prb is all required
I've shot over 2 dozen shots before a wipe/brush of the bore is needed.

I have a big can of the white GoJo but have been reluctant to use it since, according to the ingredients list, it is petroleum based. Not a problem?

Mike

 

[dbutch]

Home made lube

70% Murphy's oil soap(liquid)
30% alcohol

clean..pleasent ordor...able to shoot with out wiping between shots.

cheap to make!

 

[ol vern]

Plain old lard works for me

 

[nkbj]

Sorry to pester you yet again, but I have another question.

Do any of you have a good homemade patch lube recipe? I have seen all kinds on the Internet, but I'd prefer something from members of the forum.

I currently use T/C Bore Butter and I'm assuming that this is overpriced and over-hyped considering what its made of (which isn't listed on the package - surprise, surprise).

Please note that as a beekeeper I have ample access to beeswax (I have about 30 lb. in my back room at the moment). If you need some let me know!

Thanks again.

Scott

Hey Scott.
Just something to work with...
I live in southeast Texas so something resistant to melting and running down your blue jeans leg is needed most of the year. So, my concoction is
Lanolin + Olive Oil + Beeswax = LOOB.

 

[paulvallandigham]

GoJo has an abrasive in it, so I would not recommend it for regular use as a patch lube. It can be, and is, used to clean out very dirty barrels of crud, but then the barrel needs to be rinsed, to remove the soaps, and hopefully, any remaining oil.

The Soap SHOULD emulsify any petroleum oil that might be in the product. I use GoJO as a hand cleaner, and DON'T find any oil residue on my hands after using it. You can feel the abrasive in it, however. That is why I used it to get oil out of my fingernails, and the ridges of my fingerprints.

There are better lubes to use on patches,IMHO. Go to "Articles", above to get Stumpy's formulas for Moose Juice, and Moose Snot. You can play with these ingredients. Even Stumpy admits they are not cast in stone.

Mixing oil( Olive oil if you insist, but the cheapest vegetable oil works just as well) with Beeswax in a double boiler makes a find lube. Add some detergent liquid soap to smooth the mixture, as Stumpy describes.

Murphy's oil soap is universally liked, but if you don't buy it for normal household use, its difficult to justify buying it ONLY for mixing in a patch LUBE! Use what you already have on hand, considering the small amount of soap these recipes require.

Depending on the ratio of oil to wax, you get a thinner or thicker LUBE mix. The thicker works well on hot days; the thinner stuff works better on Cold days. No rocket science, here. :haha: :grin: :bow: :hmm: :thumbsup: