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Help: ball, patch and powder stuck

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Nice wood rods are for show. A metal or Delrin plastic rods are the “working” rods. I saw TOTW has rods made of phenolic resin impregnated fiber that has a wood grain appearance, it supposed to be strong.
It would be nice to find a laminated wood rod or a rod built up like a bamboo fly fishing rod with out the taper.
 
Nice wood rods are for show. A metal or Delrin plastic rods are the “working” rods. I saw TOTW has rods made of phenolic resin impregnated fiber that has a wood grain appearance, it supposed to be strong.
It would be nice to find a laminated wood rod or a rod built up like a bamboo fly fishing rod with out the taper.

Certainly beg to differ... So all period 18th century wooden rods were for show? Keep in mind this still is a traditional forum in regards to muzzleloading, nothing wrong with a "modern rod" if that is your forte, but it isn't traditional and shouldn't be here, period. Wooden ramming rods have been around the world much longer than any modern day wonder material, and to this day can't be surpassed. Now we all know metal rods have existed for many years on period military arms such as the bes to just name one, proper application always plays the role as with any tool.

So, saying wood rods are for show is ridiculous, with proper use a wooden rod will last a lifetime and more, the fault usually is in regards to the user and not the tool...
 
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Certainly beg to differ... So all period 18th century rods are for show? Keep in mind this still is a traditional forum in regards to muzzleloading, nothing wrong with a "modern rod" if that is your forte, but it isn't traditional and shouldn't be here, period. Wooden ramming rods have been around the world much longer than any modern day wonder material, and to this day can't be surpassed.

So, saying wood rods are for show is ridiculous, with proper use a wooden rod will last a lifetime and more, the fault usually is in regards to the user and not the tool...

I am with you on the hickory rods. Make my own and use them all of the time and properly. Only damage I have done is I have accidentally shot 2 downrange when distracted while loading.

Dave
 
This is one that Cabelas sells. You won't be sorry.View attachment 709
Absolutely true. As much as I can, I remain traditional, Flintlock and all, but those CO2 dis-chargers really work. Be aware that some of them take a special CO2 cartridge that is a bigger size than the ones used by Daisy CO2 guns. When I'm dumb enough to load a powder less ball, this is far quicker and easier to admit my stupidity and get back into the muzzleloader shoot. I know my ancestors didn't have one of these but if they would've, I'll bet they would've used it.
 
Be aware that some of them take a special CO2 cartridge that is a bigger size than the ones used by Daisy CO2 guns.

Exact reason why it's just something else that ends up costing more than it's worth in the long run. To each his own as everyone can spend their funds freely. :)

Fact remains this "hobby" if you want to label it as such is extremely simplistic, that is however left up to the practitioner. Absolutely modern gadgets speed up the process, yet no modern gadget can replace the learning aspect and appreciation of doing things in a traditional manner.
 
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Back to getting the ball out - If I come home from hunting without firing a shot I start up the air compressor, remove the nipple (or touchhole liner), and blow the ball out. Tales 70-80 psi to give it a shove. Be sure to point it at a backstop.
 
Certainly beg to differ... So all period 18th century wooden rods were for show? Keep in mind this still is a traditional forum in regards to muzzleloading, nothing wrong with a "modern rod" if that is your forte, but it isn't traditional and shouldn't be here, period. ...

Off Topic -- In the historical correct thread Zione said, "As for the purpose of the forum, yes it is a traditional muzzleloading forum as it says in the forum rules, but that rule was written to explain the cut off date for acceptable guns/gear. It was NOT written to say that ONLY posts about historically correct or period correct things can be discussed here." So a Delrin plastic rod can be talk about on this forum.
 
Nice wood rods are for show. A metal or Delrin plastic rods are the “working” rods. I saw TOTW has rods made of phenolic resin impregnated fiber that has a wood grain appearance, it supposed to be strong.
It would be nice to find a laminated wood rod or a rod built up like a bamboo fly fishing rod with out the taper.

Members here know about my many rants considering ramrod safety. I use, and have sold Delrin rods. My wood rods are mainly for show or at ronny where they might be required. For years I tried to find a synthetic material suitable for ram rods that actually gave the appearance of wood. I tried a lot of phenolics and others but virtually all failed in lateral strength tests. Delrin remained the best choice. The one I used in my favorite flint longrifle for many years (before I had to give it up because of health reasons) was black Delrin that I sanded to remove the shine. Even at ronny no one ever noticed it was not wood. I suspect your search for a fishing rod like material will be fruitless.
 
I'd sure hate to this forum go absolutely PC-HC. To me I am shooting the same "type" rifles great great grampa did and that's cool. Not allot of interest in becoming totally HC/PC, besides I'm afreared of horses so how would I get to the woods? HOW DO YOU GET TO YOUR RANGE? umm hmm. Not xactly PC/HC huh;) So if you elect to drive rubberised motorized equipment to the range thats where you have elected to stop in the HC/PC Journey. I aint said nothin. Let me (us) stop along the trail were we like as well:D

To the OP, nipple off, powder in, nipple back on ....BANG. Or get ya the C02, it works in like 1 sec.

Have a GREAT DAY!
 
The info about pilot drills for ball pullers was GREAT!

Also pin the threaded ends to your rod as well as glueing.
Make sure your cross pins are located deep enough to not weaken the wooden rod.

I recently made a rod for my fusil from 4130 steel tubing.
Draw-filing the taper to match thimbles & the deep hole in the forend was a time consuming drag, but worth the time.
I silver-soldered a threaded 10x24 tpi(whatever is std.) inside the the small end, & a brass jag on the muzzle end.
No pulled off ends, no broken rods, and I can broil meat over a fire ;-)
Browned the steel rod with Laurel Mtn, sI it isn't shiny.
The hollow tubing cuts down on wt. of a 3/b" rod if it were solid.
Got the tubing from Aircraft Spruce...

The advice about using water is good...
I have used spit in the field.
"Dutch's" advice about wiping between shots is excellent for accurascy and avoiding stuck balls and wiping rods.

You want a rod and tips strong enough that you can literally hang the gun with a stuck rod or ball to a limb stub with halibut line and hang your weight on it.

The part of the ball that expands is above the widest dia. Of the ball, so that old myth doesn't hold water, especially if you use a pilot drill like the highly experienced shooters mention.
 
As a black powder shoot you will eventually dry ball. The safest way to unload a patched ball is with a puller. Screw your range rod into the ball and use a "U" shaped piece to hook over the ball on the rod and pull --- vola its out. Mountain-men used a notch in a tree to hook their ramrods
 
Mountain-men used a notch in a tree to hook their ramrods

We (you) know this how? Methinks the original mm did not have stout handles on the ends of their wiping sticks. I know I have never seen such in museums. Methinks also many could stand there with a useless rifle in their hands while the injuns kilt them. Lotsa dead men out there from the day that aren't telling their stories.
 
Mountain-men used a notch in a tree to hook their ramrods
I have never seen a period rammer with a hook of any sort. I've read of ball-screws being used or the breechplug removed, but not one instance that involved a tree in the process....
 
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