• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Fine grade of pyrodex in a flinter

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Regarding making pyrodex slightly finer---

I did up very, very small batches in a wooden mortar and wooden pestel.

As commonly known and as available from information oriented web sources---"It (pyrodex) is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be..."

And, Geee, no, never have used dynamite to clean out ear wax. Although the older I get the faster it seems to make more in there. Between that and nose hair a regular maintenance program has had to be instituted! :wink:
 
Zoar said:
Regarding making pyrodex slightly finer---

I did up very, very small batches in a wooden mortar and wooden pestel.

As commonly known and as available from information oriented web sources---"It (pyrodex) is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be..."

And, Geee, no, never have used dynamite to clean out ear wax. Although the older I get the faster it seems to make more in there. Between that and nose hair a regular maintenance program has had to be instituted! :wink:

Sorry - just checking, not meaning to pry into your private life and all that.

Just that I knew somebody once who had a habit of 'removing' track crackers - the little detonators they put on railroad tracks to warn oncoming trains of a problem ahead - and hitting them with a hammer to see how loud they really were. His career as an unofficial tester for DuPont Explosive Products came one night when he couldn't find a handy hammer, so decided to jump of a handy tree stump, about four feet off the ground, onto the recalcitrant cracker.

The subsequent 'bang' blew his right heel clean off his foot.

Just thort he might have been a relative of yours, is all... :wink:

Best

tac

PS - I hope you're wearing ear defenders when you grind up that stuff. We wouldn't want the bang to cause irreversible deefity, would we? :thumbsup:
 
Not related.

No ear protection needed. It won't go bang. And, I already conducted my little (and I do mean little) experiment and I do not need to repeat it.

I prefer Black Powder for all my ignition and loading needs for my traditional muzzleloading guns. I am also hand loading Black Powder into my 50/90 shells instead of Alliant ReLoder 15 for my "modern" cartridge gun in part because I prefer black powder so much over modern propellants. But I have yet to verify accuracy, fps, etc in my 50/90 using real Black.

Too bad about that guy's heal though. I wonder if he was aware that guys who throw themselves on grenades usually get blowed up? :wink:
 
I live in Canada and because of 911 it is almost impossible to get BP. I have to drive 350 miles to Caroline Alb., I live in northern B.C. Because of this I use Pyro in my 50 cal rock lock as a binary charge. I put 5gr of 3F in main charge first followed by 95gr. Pyro 3F. I use 4F as prime in the pan. I just bought 6 lbs of 3F and 1 lb 4f Goex which I will stretch with pryo. I get almost instant consistent ignition if I load carefully and pay attention to details. In fact my lock time is so fast it is hard to tell the difference from centerfire. My accuracy does not seem to suffer as I can hit a 8X10 sheet of paper at 100 yards with primitive sights 5 times out of 5 from a rest. I do believe that all balls in an 8X10 sheet of paper at 100 qualifies as minute of moose. If I could use 100% real BP I would but I do have easy access so I do what I have to to enjoy the sport. I love my Traditions 50 cal Penn Flinter, she shoots good but the drop could be deeper and the stock a little longer.

Cheers&Tighter Groups: Eaglesnester
 
I had a newbie at a reenactment in a different unit use Pyrodex. It worked, but had a very different sound, both in the pan flashing and the barrel. More of a fizzzzt, thump than the regular ztBOOM.
I told him to never use it again, BP only.
 
I have a personal friend, who is a gunsmith and gunbuilder, who lives near Prince George, British Columbia. (O.E.)Curly Witte has no problem getting Black Powder. You may want to contact him to learn how to get it. He has been building and shooting MLers for more than 50 years, and would be a great guy for you to get to know. :grin: :thumbsup:
 
Zoar said:
Regarding making pyrodex slightly finer---

I did up very, very small batches in a wooden mortar and wooden pestel.

As commonly known and as available from information oriented web sources---"It (pyrodex) is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by static electricity, as black can be..."
***SNIP***

Hey Zoar,

Don't believe everything you read because a lot of it is nothing more than hearsay and "urban legend". :shake: You best check out this Link to the Pictures. "Common knowledge" isn't worth much if it's not based on experience. Notice the use of 40,000 volts in the second test on black powder...

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
 
The Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) in the real black powder can be set off by crushing. Which is why they ball mill to the desired level of fine-ness the sulfur and the charcoal but NEVER EVER, EVER would they ball mill the entire mixture. It most likely will go BOOM, not that it might, it is almost assured it will!

Hence I would never crush real black powder in any mortar and pestel. (or any other crushing method particularly a method involving metal objects, like a ball mill). But pyrodex does not at all have the same properties. You can crush it, but still for experimenting I used a wood mortar and pestel and just a few grains at a time.

That is what I am trying to say.

When we were kids we set off black powder caps with a hammer on slate sidewalks. The amount of black powder dictated the size of the boom. A whole roll under a hammer made quite a nice boom.

Percussion. (So, not really static), I mis-quoted or quoted the wrong source.

But it is safe to say that hand crushing/ball milling can create a percussion situation and anything with Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) in it should not be milled or crushed as a way to make it finer, because it could go boom.

:thumbsup:
 
Zoar said:
The Potassium Nitrate (KNO3) in the real black powder can be set off by crushing.

What documentation do you have for this?
The only function of the P.N. is to produce oxygen.
It is not an explosive and cannot detonate. In fact BP cannot detonate.

I have compressed BP to a calculated psi at the punch nose over 3000 psi and there was not the slightest indication of it doing anything. Makes a plug so hard an arbor press is needed to remove it from the die. Did not go boom.
And entire semi-load on BP turned onto its side with no ill effects.
In fact I am told that fusing a bottle in the middle of a case of 1 pound containers will only set of 3-5 of the 25 the rest are just tossed aside with scorched (or not) labels. I friend had a bunch he got after the testing at a powder distributor in Montana.
BP might be ignited by pressure or impact but its due to the impact raising the temperature of the powder to the ignition temp.

Dan
 
The yankees attempted to blow up Fort Fisher here in NC during the late War of Northern Aggression with a whole ship load of BP and while it made a good bang it was reported the kegs of burning powder flying through the air was very entertaing to watch.
 
Dan--Yea, that wasn't quite worded right. I meant to convey that the sulfur and the charcoal are not the problem, but when COMBINED with the Potassium Nitrate the mixture with the KNO3 is susceptible to going boom from crushing and I should say grinding/crushing/striking etc and not at all so much from just straight slow compression as you described.

I have talked with guys who make black powder and who use ball mills for the charcoal / sulphur process and it is a common joke where they say "Just don't forget: Don't add the KNO3 or else we'll be picking up the pieces of whoever goofs up. Hahahahahaaaaaa." :grin:
 
Its good to be "safer than sorry" but I've tried many times to get real pure black powder to ignite by hitting it. So far I've been unsuccessful.

Now, hitting the paper caps that were made for cap guns is a different thing.

Those caps have a fulminate in them and it will detonate if struck with some object.
That's what gave ole' Alexander Forsyth the idea of using fulminates to fire his flintlock and of course the rest is history. :)

Well, maybe I should modify that statement.
I's sure Alex didn't have a cap gun like I did when I was a kid. :rotf:
 
Zonie---I hear you. I personally have never been able to get real black powder to ignite from anything other than fire, fuse, flintlock, caplock, however the 'ole guys who work with ball mills tell me NEVER EVER EVER would they put black powder in one because it'll go boom. I trust them on that.

What got me off on that was that someone said I should never have crushed that substitute pyrodex manure because it will explode, but I said it wouldn't. Real black powder has been known to (reported) in a ball mill. If it can in a ball mill, then it is reasonable to exercise all caution as far as crushing/striking/hitting it.

Anyway, we are far out on a limb now and away from the original pyrodex question which asked---if it is finer will it increase its ability to ignite and all accounts say no it will not increase its ability to go boom. It will be the same lousy performer it always was and will be as compared to real black powder! :wink:
 
Ron T. said:
I've been lurking here for well over 6 months and have particularly read every one of Paul's posts and copied some of them for possible future reference or "refresher-reading" along with many of a couple of other member's posts who are "long-in-the-tooth" with knowledge.

They have helped me get a couple of year's "experience" in only a few months in how to make my flinter shoot each and every time without fail... er... ah... ummm, well, MOSTLY without fail. :grin:

My point is... Paul has had vast experience with flinters and willingly gives us the benefit of his knowledge & that experience. He has proven time after time to be a true friend by doing so... and he does it without malice or any possibility of any kind of payment, so why doubt his integrity and ethics?

While each of us have a right to disagree with another if our personal experience indicates something difference, we still must realize that we have to compare the EXTENT of our "experience" with the experiences that others have had and realize that our experiences in a particular area may be an "exception-to-the-general-rule" rather than being the "norm" to that same general rule.

Like Paul... I've had other BP shooters come up to me at the rifle range and ask how I get my flintlock to "shoot so consistently fast". It didn't always do that... and I had a LOT of "hang-fires" until I read Paul's post on how he loads his flinter and what he does with the FFFFg powder in the frizzen pan & flash-hole.

When I did the same thing, I stopped having hang-fires and/or "mis-fires". "Experience" is a great teacher and it's obvious Paul has had plently of "experience".

Jus' my 2¢... :v


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.
No doubt Ron. I'm happy to be among kindred spirits here.
 
paulvallandigham said:
Peter D. I worked with Pyrodex more than 40 years ago, when it was first out. The Can, then, specifically said it wasn't for use in flintlocks, but I had a friend who had a flintlock and didn't like to believe factory warnings, so he tried pyrodex. He had both RS, and P, configurations. Both created hang fires. Neither produced good groups. Occasionally, with RS being worse than P, the flint would not even ignite the Pyrodex.
No doubt you have extensive esperience in the art of the smoke pole...I was just sharing my own personal experience. not intending to get you all in a fuss. I like Pyro-P and will continue to use it as long as they offer it.
-Cheers.
Since then I have seen many others try using the stuff in flintlocks. It hasn't worked for them, either. Both are slow to ignite, IF they do ignite.

When someone wants to tell me, in person, or on a forum like this that Pyrodox P works just fine in his flintlocks, I am going to challenge him. For all I know, he's a shill for the Company that makes the product!

This site, and the internet does provide more than a little Anonymity, after all. A lot of people with a lot less experience than I Have had are going to read comments like that, and believe it. They will spend good money buying Pyrodex P, and then spend a day struggling to get it to work in their flintlocks. They will be frustrated, and then angry. I don't want that anger turning on this forum, because NO ONE had the decency to challenge these kinds of claims, here.

The most common fall-back for these guys is to admit they use a " booster charge " of black powder in their flintlocks, to get the Pyrodex( or other substitute powder) to ignite. They never send pictures of their targets, unless they are shot at 25 yards, or less. If you are going to use Black Powder as a " booster" with the stuff, why not simply use Black Powder loads, as God intended to be used in flintlocks??? :hmm:

The only honest explanation I have heard to justify using "duplex" loads came from BrownBear here, on a prior thread. He lives on Kodiak Island, and its illegal to fly black powder into the island under federal laws. So, when he is low on black powder, he makes it stretch by using small booster charges in his flintlocks to ignite some other substitute powder that he can obtain.BB does most of his shooting at game- not targets, I gather, so he's not that interested in very small groups. "Minute of deer" are good enough. The brush is so thick on the Island that if he sees a bear, its almost always too close for comfort. Under the circumstances, pin point accuracy is not his first concern.

I hardly would call my response a " Summary disbelief". As to the man being a liar, those are your words. I find a lot of people have no clue how fast a flintlock should be expected to fire- having only information gained from watching old Hollywood movies to tell them this. They actually expect that a flintlock should have along delay in firing. If I thought he was lying, trust me, I would have said so. I didn't call him a liar, because I suspect he just doesn't know better.

If I could be paid $5.00( sorry, inflation) for every BP shooter who has come up to me at the club range to ask me how I get a flintlock to fire so fast, I would own a couple of Mike Brooks rifles! Every time I shoot at the club, I end up with a small group of shooters watching me load my gun, prime it, and shoot it. Some honest express shock that a flintlock can fire " almost as fast as a percussion rifle". Some flintlock shooters come over to ask me what they are doing wrong that is causing the hang-fires, etc.

So, lack of knowledge is the more likely problem when claims like this are made. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
Back
Top