I know champfering is a common(?) modification on BP revolver cylinders. I now own four revolvers, all .44, and plan to buy at least one .31 and .36 caliber revolver. I want to make my guns the best they can be, but I'm not sure about champfering cylinders. I've been shooting my 1860 Colt Army (reproduction) for 50 years abd have always watched for the ring of lead to be shaved off of the ball when loading. It makes me think I'm getting the exact right fit of ball to cylinder. Seems like the ring won't be shaved off in a champfered cylinder. Why do I want to champfer my cylinders?
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Champfer?
- Thread starter tom in nc
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64Springer
75 Cal.
Word of the Day: Chamfer.
I'm in the no chamfer camp.
Just break the sharp edge if there is one.
I'm in the no chamfer camp.
Just break the sharp edge if there is one.
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I’ve never chamfered a chamber. I have one revolver that came with a chamfered cylinder and it shoots fine but not exceptionally well. Don’t really believe it accomplishes anything or you can bet I’d be doing it.
The only thing that I personally would be concerned with would be if you have a burr on the chamber mouth and the opening with the burr is smaller in size than the chamber itself. If that was the case you could shave a ring of lead, but the ball would then be smaller than the chamber. Then you could have the balls in the chambers moving forward creating space between the ball and powder, which is bad. Not likely to happen but it can.
I don’t have a lot of experience with cap and ball but I would think a chamfer would tend to swage the ball rather than shave lead making it harder to load. Just my thoughts.
I chamfer the cylinder throats. Then I lap the 45 degree chamfer to polish it. Makes loading easier, if you use a ball that is a couple of thousands over cylinder chamber size. It does compress the balls, rather than cutting lead.
It works well with the Quick 6 Loader from RMC Ox-Yoke too.
It works well with the Quick 6 Loader from RMC Ox-Yoke too.
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While I have not done it, I agree the chamfer is probably beneficial.
Keeping in mind the lead ring is just an indicator not a goal. IE, if you shave lead then you have a better idea its going to form a seal and that is (my opinion) they key to No Chainfires.
If you drive a ball back out of a chamber you will see a band on it, depending on the ball size and the chamber, it can be quite wide (.457 in mind is about 1/4 inch) down to .100 area.
Until I contoured it, my 58 Pietta mashed the balls into ugly shapes.
So my take is a contour lets you start it easing the ball into the chamber and less distortion.
Now, the 58 ASP I have came with tapered chambers. No lead ring shaved, but it has a good sealing band. I assume that is how they are made as all chambers on that cylinder are the same.
The 47 Walker has a wider mouth than down further, so it go is tapered though I would not call it chamfered. It has a hair of a shave with a .451 ball (I am playing with ball sizes to see, in that case I am also putting a treated wad in it as I don't know it seals that good and I am not going down in size any more as others have tested it and the .451 is around where chain fires start). A treated wad should act as a flame suppresor if any fire gets past the ball.
I have tested that with wads ahead of the bullets pulling them off on the chamber I am going to fire. You can see the blast pattern on the wads on the adjacent chambers. Despite being in front the blast pattern did not penetrate past the surface much. No where near to coming out the back side. I would not count on a wad alone but with a seal and a wad I think that is safe.
one note, there are people who have other experience and their is to chain fire from the rear. I won't say it can't happen, I don't think its the main cause of chain fire. I know of one person who induced chain fire and it was under .451 that he could make it happen consistently. He was not stupid, he just tested it with an adjacent chamber, prepared for it (gloves I believe and good eye protection).
I was getting some nice just under 2 inch groups at 25 yards with the 47 Walker and the .451 balls.
Keeping in mind the lead ring is just an indicator not a goal. IE, if you shave lead then you have a better idea its going to form a seal and that is (my opinion) they key to No Chainfires.
If you drive a ball back out of a chamber you will see a band on it, depending on the ball size and the chamber, it can be quite wide (.457 in mind is about 1/4 inch) down to .100 area.
Until I contoured it, my 58 Pietta mashed the balls into ugly shapes.
So my take is a contour lets you start it easing the ball into the chamber and less distortion.
Now, the 58 ASP I have came with tapered chambers. No lead ring shaved, but it has a good sealing band. I assume that is how they are made as all chambers on that cylinder are the same.
The 47 Walker has a wider mouth than down further, so it go is tapered though I would not call it chamfered. It has a hair of a shave with a .451 ball (I am playing with ball sizes to see, in that case I am also putting a treated wad in it as I don't know it seals that good and I am not going down in size any more as others have tested it and the .451 is around where chain fires start). A treated wad should act as a flame suppresor if any fire gets past the ball.
I have tested that with wads ahead of the bullets pulling them off on the chamber I am going to fire. You can see the blast pattern on the wads on the adjacent chambers. Despite being in front the blast pattern did not penetrate past the surface much. No where near to coming out the back side. I would not count on a wad alone but with a seal and a wad I think that is safe.
one note, there are people who have other experience and their is to chain fire from the rear. I won't say it can't happen, I don't think its the main cause of chain fire. I know of one person who induced chain fire and it was under .451 that he could make it happen consistently. He was not stupid, he just tested it with an adjacent chamber, prepared for it (gloves I believe and good eye protection).
I was getting some nice just under 2 inch groups at 25 yards with the 47 Walker and the .451 balls.
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You only want to break/angle/smooth a sharp corner and slightly even out any digs or gouges not make a deep cut. To deep a chamfer encourages spitting side ways at discharge from the barrel/cylinder gap.
Miss alignment along with to deep a chamfer can really encourages spitting of both lead and powder.
Forcing cone corners are another place to be very conservative on the chamfer to reduce spitting.
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I need to give Mr. Deland credit for looking at the 47 Walker Taper. I checked it with the bore gauge and yes it was.
Ergo, try .451 and a wad for insurance and see how it does. I am happy with 2 inches at 25 yards.
Not so happy with no Percussion Caps so I am going to have to buy the kit and try that.
Ergo, try .451 and a wad for insurance and see how it does. I am happy with 2 inches at 25 yards.
Not so happy with no Percussion Caps so I am going to have to buy the kit and try that.
FIFY
