Been searching for days, can someone point me to

[vidego]

a description, diagram, pictures or a video of how best to dissasseble a T/C Hawken lock?

I'm new to this but have diss/assembled many modern handguns and rifles and have the proper tools. But...I have goten myself in a fix or two over the years and want to eliminate any trouble spots. Thanks.

 

[Bill Hall]

If you can hang on just a minute, I have a feeling Necchi will post some of his helpful pics and information. He explained how to take down a T/C lock to me, it's really easy and straight forward.

Hey Necchi! :blah: Bill

 

[vidego]

Thanks. I'll wait with breath that smells like bait! :wink:

 

[ohio ramrod]

Real simple, take a big empty card board box, cut two hand holes in a side and a small "sight" hole . Place the lock inside the box with a screwdriver close lid, take out screws , and gather up the pieces that went "flying" :rotf: :rotf:

 

[roundball]

I used / disassembled many T/C locks for several years...here's how I did it:

Here's how I do it:

1) Remove the lock from the stock;

2) Place the hammer full forward in it's relaxed position to relax the mainspring and rotate it's tumbler notch away from the guide rod as far as possible.

3) Remove the mainspring & guide rod...I just rest the lock on a piece of carpet and use needle nose pliers to push the end of the rod out of the tumbler notch.
WEAR A HEAVY LEATHER GLOVE ON THE HAND HOLDING THE LOCK IN CASE THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIARS SLIP;

ENCLOSE YOUR WORK AREA AS BEST YOU CAN IN CASE THE SPRING GETS AWAY FROM YOU!

4) Remove the bridle plate & screws

5) Remove the sear / sear spring / sear spring plunger

DON’T LOSE THE FLY

6) Flip the lock over and support it across two pieces of wood or something so the tumbler hangs free;

7) Remove the hammer screw;
NOTE: The Hammer slides onto the "tumbler" shaft...you may be lucky, and after removing the hammer screw, you might be able to wiggle the hammer off the end of the shaft if it has any play at all...usually you cannot.

CAUTION...DO NOT THINK YOU CAN SLIDE A SCREWDRIVER BLADE UNDER THE EDGE OF THE HAMMER AND PRY IT OFF...YOU WILL MAR THE SIDE PLATE, AND WORSE, YOU MAY SNAP THE TUMBLER SHAFT OFF.

8) Take a punch as large as the end of the tumbler shaft, and gently tap the tumbler down through the hammer;

Reassemble in reverse order;

REMEMBER TO PUT THE FLY BACK IN THE SAME PLACE

 

[vidego]

Thank you roundball. The hammer won't half-cock or full cock. I'm guessing the sear spring. Just guessing tho. Appreciate your help.

 

[roundball]

These might help...save them in, zoom them up:

 

[necchi]

It's all on Bill now, atta boy rb. :wink:

 

[vidego]

Awesome! Thank you very much.

 

[vidego]

Uhhh...roundball...not to sound ungreatful or picky, but could you please post the rest of the Parts list page? ya know, the one with the #'s and names of the lock parts? LOL

 

[vidego]

Belay that last message! I just got off the phone with Tom at T/C. He says I can't buy the lock parts but he'll send me a free return shipping lable to send the lock back and have it rebuilt.

Didn't mention cost but that's not important. Can't be much. Less than the real cost of shipping probably.

Thanks all, for the help.

 

[Birdman]

V just for fun make a small identifying mark on the back of the plate n see if ya get the same one back, I've heard great storys on TC n I'll bet ya get a brand new one n it May even be free of charge, they really seem to stand behind their product, a buddy had an odd stock that ended up with a slight twist in it, the one he got in return was way up graded from what he sent back, the grain was beautiful. Just curious is all, keep us informed how it goes YMHS Birdman

 

[roundball]

Uhhh...roundball...not to sound ungreatful or picky, but could you please post the rest of the Parts list page? ya know, the one with the #'s and names of the lock parts? LOL

Uhmmm, Didn't notice that...I'll go dig around some more

 

[roundball]

OK, these should be better...put the T/C Hawken Parts List into two separate sections:

 

[vidego]

Thanks again Roundball. And Birdman, that's a good idea. I will mark it just to see how it shakes out.

 

[vidego]

Roundball, thanks to your drawings I was able to isolate the problem. Having absolutely no experience with the guts of a side lock I was able to determine the sear plunger, for whatever reason, is stuck in the "up position". I'm still waiting for the repair order from T/C but if anyone has any suggestions on how to free it up, I'm all ears. Ran out of Break Free so I hit it with some RemOil. No joy.

I'd imagine the sear spring is shot from being compressed for however many years.

Anyway, thanks to all for the help. Even ohio! LOL

 

[necchi]

Just get ahold of it with a needle nose and gently twist it out of there.
Clean it up a bit and you should be good

 

[roundball]

Roundball, thanks to your drawings I was able to isolate the problem. Having absolutely no experience with the guts of a side lock I was able to determine the sear plunger, for whatever reason, is stuck in the "up position".

That little coil spring up inside that little square housing that the plunger slides up and down in can break...had one break one time and the two halves of the coils merged together making it shorter and the plunger was no longer being driven down.

There should be a tiny hole on the top of that little square block...get a strong sewing needle or something like that and tap it down through that hole to push the plunger down...and if you fish it out, save the parts for T/C of course.

Then in the meantime, you can trim the coil spring out of a common ball point pen to use as an interim emergency spare...just make sure you don't trim it so short it doesn't have enough tension to keep the sear nose engaged in the tumbler notches.

 

[vidego]

You guys are awesome! Thanks is getting repetitive.

 

[vidego]

Just tried to tap it out and it won't budge. Afraid to get too aggressive. Maybe I should just leave it to T/C?