12 Gauge questions

[Blue_Duck_97]

Hello folks! I’m thinking about buying a Pedersoli 12 gauge caplock shotgun. I’m curious as to what size shot cards and wads I should buy?

Looking at reviews/comments on Midway, it appears that some folks recommend 14 gauge shot cards.

I have a brown bess and am somewhat familiar with loading shot in a smooth bore. I have some # 8, 6, and 4 shot along with the shot cards/wads for the Bess.

From what I can tell, the Pedersoli side by side 12 gauge comes with a modified and full chokes (hence the question about shot card/wad size).

Also, I have caps and 1.5F, 2F, and 3F powder. All I need (I think) is the gun and the shot cards/wads.

Y’all’s thoughts and opinions are appreciated!

B

 

[Britsmoothy]

Don't buy wads for a start. Simply not needed.
Just buy 11g over shot cards.
Or buy a leather punch and stamp your own.
Use the 3f, sell the other powder.

 

[SOLANCO]

Don't buy wads for a start. Simply not needed.
Just buy 11g over shot cards.
Or buy a leather punch and stamp your own.
Use the 3f, sell the other powder.

Brit is nothing if not concise. His posts are always found with the pleasure of anticipation.

 

[Britsmoothy]

All I use. Mostly! I did acquire some felt and cork wads recently but only because they where basically given to me otherwise I wouldn't of bothered.
They though did work in a cylinder gun.

My usual method though is better for all round use....I find.

 

[Sparkitoff]

My Pedersoli 12 gauge guns, there's 3 of them here, use 13-gauge sized cards or wads. They're all slightly under-sized bores for a 12-gauge and even with choke you can still get a card in by starting it side-ways or using a short starter. Personally, I've rather have a slightly larger card than one that is under-sized. In patterning, the under-sized cards seem to make oval patterns with the wide part horizontal and the shot spread is patchy. A proper or slightly larger card keeps the pattern round and even. I've not used a whole cushion wad, but a half will do and it also helps to put a overshot card on top of it so the shot doesn't imbed and become stuck in it. Like Brit said, you don't need the fibre wad. If you get a real dirty gun from a lot of shooting in succession, a slightly lubed or damp fibre wad can help loosed fouling and keep you going, but overshot cards are rarely ever hard to load even with fouling.

 

[Feltwad]

The UK market is flooded with secondhanded Italian reproes mostly Pedersoli which can be bought at auction depending on condition from £50 to £100 sterling most may end in the furnace or container to be shipped abroad
Feltwad

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Thanks for the replies folks! I've been searching/reading the forum and there is a ton of information that covers this topic/gun combo. Y'all's quick replies have helped me get quickly to the anwer I needed, THANKS! I've found my Bess shoots the best patterns with the overshot cards as well.

Time to head to track of the wolf and pick up some 11 gauge shot cards!

THANKS!

b

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

I just checked my Brown Bess supplies. I have 11 gauge shot cards already on hand! Time to order that shotgun now
b

 

[Rifleman1776]

Ped smoothies can vary in bore size. I have had '12 ga.' that was really an 11 ga. and another supposedly 12 g a. that was really a 14 ga. Know what you have before spending money.

 

[Trigger]

Is it choked or choke tubes? I've heard of some older ones having choked barrels

I got 10ga for 10ga

12ga for 12ga

Wads most are cheap.

Only wads i found that were a little pricey was the wool or wonder I think.

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Is it choked or choke tubes? I've heard of some older ones having choked barrels

I got 10ga for 10ga

12ga for 12ga

Wads most are cheap.

Only wads i found that were a little pricey was the wool or wonder I think.

Trigger, most owners (who have take the time to post about/review their guns) claim the barrels are choked modified and full (no screw in chokes). I hope mine comes with one barrel choked full as I want to turkey hunt with it.

 

[TCMonts]

Mine may be a little different. I have always used 12 ga wads. the 1/8" card wads, or the felt wads over powder and a thin overshot on top.
If you have trouble with fowling those felt wads go down much easier. the chromed bores on those DPs seem to help a lot also. Never used cushion wads so can't comment on them. I keep a small handful of all three loose in the bottom of my bag so I can pick and choose as I want or need and they don't take up much room.

 

[Ponderosaman]

I use 12 gauge supplies on mine. Mine is choked improved cylinder and modified.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I used to have a bag of the 12 gauge thick fiber wads for my Navy Arms SxS 12 gauge. Even lubed they were really hard to shove down the tubes. I came across some 14 gauge thick fiber wads. Much better loading !! I lube them with bore butter. One hint I learned a long time ago is when you are loading the thin over powder and over shot cards is to put a deep nick in the edge of the card before you push it down. That helps let the air escape through the deep nick and makes loading the cards much easier. I use the edge of the barrel to make the deep nick then push it down. I have the thick over powder wads but I stopped using them. A thin card over the powder, a thick vegetable fiber wad, the shot then a thin over shot card. With my 12 gauge to tighten patterns, I will use a dime coin wrapper and fill that with shot like a shot cup then an over shot card.. It is a perfect fit in the 12 gauge.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[joevic57]

If you have not already done so, google VM Starr for excellent advice on loading muzzle loading shotguns. The lighter the over powder cards the better as they will not fly through and disrupt a shot string. I use a combination of tightly packed wasp nest and cards punched from waxed milk cartons.

 

[Trigger]

You said chokes I though it was a misspell

Trigger, most owners (who have take the time to post about/review their guns) claim the barrels are choked modified and full (no screw in chokes). I hope mine comes with one barrel choked full as I want to turkey hunt with it.

Cyl/mod I thought for the 12ga new models anyway. If your just assuming it's full I dunno what to tell you.

Sorry about that, good luck.

The barrels are stamped on there as to what choke they are. I think underside. If that helps

 

[Trigger]

The UK market is flooded with secondhanded Italian reproes mostly Pedersoli which can be bought at auction depending on condition from £50 to £100 sterling most may end in the furnace or container to be shipped abroad
Feltwad

I noticed there is allot more to choose from used? I don't think we can buy overseas like guntrader UK etc.

potatocelli guns aren't cheap. the cheap ones used are 600 ish I think and that's like a scratched up cva

 

[Blue_Duck_97]

Thanks for everyone’s feedback! My shotgun arrived today and man it is awesome! The fit/finish is fantastic!

It seems to shoot well with both 2F and 3F. I think 3F works the best ( it have only fired around a dozen shots).

The barrels are cylinder choked (right side) and modified choked (left side).

I used Britsmoothy’s advice and it worked well.

Now here is the tragedy: I accidentally hit a white spray paint can with some #7 shot from about 25 yards (thought I had the can positioned behind a cinder block. The can exploded at my shot. I carried the gun down to the target to inspect my pattern (leaned the gun against my backstop). I then nudged the paint can with my foot. The can discharged the remainder of the white paint onto the bottom of the butstock of my new shotgun

I literally had it out of the box for less than three hours and managed to spatter the rear stock with white paint.

Any good ideas on how to remove the paint without damaging the wood

Thanks

 

[Britsmoothy]

Oops. Don't do that again!
You might now need a stock finishing kit!

 

[bigted]

Chances are that whatever takes the paint off will also remove the finish as well.

if it twere me, I would use what ever removes the paint on the whole stock then refinish with boiled linseed oil for a hand rubbed finish. After ten or so applications I would rub the whole stock with a hardwood dowel to get all the oil rubbed in and flatten any wood grain followed by rubbing it with bee’s wax to seal. I also use ballistol to clean with and especially newly finished stocks , I rub ‘em down with straight ballistol for that very nice finished look again.

I think your outcome would be very pleasing to you and easy to touch up if a nick or scratch magically appears in the future