Wood Stock Inlay Repair

[NEW222]

Hi there. I recently acquired a Thompson Center New Englander in fair condition. The stock was in need of some repairs, and I am in the process. The cracks are already filled and glued, and next was the oval plate where the pin holding the barrel in place is. The original hole is there, but the screws were stripped out, missing, and there was some repair work done to the area. So, I removed whatever type of repair material had been placed there carefully then proceeded to clean the area up with my dremel tool both cleaning up the wood edges, as well as making a sort of inlay area. Total depth of the inlay area in question is approximately 1/8" deep. I got a 1/4" piece of wood that I sanded to shape to match the inlay hole and now my problems arise. I will also mention that the stock inners are fairly dirty and would also like to clean it up before refinishing and re-assembly. So here are my two questions. Is it best to clean the stock insides first, let fully dry, then inlay the wood? And second question is what glue is best used for something like this for the repair, inserting 'A' into 'B'. I have quality 5 and 15 minute epoxy, Gorilla Glue Polyurethane, and Gorilla Glue Wood Glue. The fit of the piece is pretty snug all the way around. I am going to fix this gun up mainly as a shooter, not a show queen. I am also unsure of the stocks final finish. As a temporary repair, I will just varnish the repair up, and decide its fate after shooting it (paint it up, or go natural wood finish again? Thank you in advance for any and all help in this matter.

 

[Treestalker]

New, can you get a piece of walnut to make a new patch? It will match your wood better, and also, are you going to inlay a new wedge plate into your patch? Is the dirt in your inlay cavity? It looks good to go in the picture. I usually use 5 minute epoxy on my wood and horn work. Your stock shows some rough treatment, like vice jaw imprints on the lock panels. You can maybe raise them out with a damp washcloth and an iron. I would completely refinish the stock, taking care to maintain the original shape. You have a good, handy gun, take time to do the job right and be proud of your work. You will be looking at it for a long time and remembering adventures with it. Make it your friend. George. PS I like Minwax Walnut stain. Also their English Chestnut looks good on walnut, comes out lighter. G

 

[NEW222]

I do not have any walnut available. Ok, I did not know what it was, but I am positive that I do not have any walnut. But I will look tomorrow when I go out shopping. Yes, the gun overall is pretty rough. There is a piece on the top just in front of the lock mechanism that I missing as well. I did not fix that as it would require a fair bit more work, so I carefully used the above mentioned dremel and tapered it as necessary to kind of blend in to its place. I will take a picture in a few minutes. Thank you for the help.

 

[NEW222]

It is hard to see from this picture the damage, as well as how I had started to smooth it out. I MAY cut it out and replace the piece, but I don't feel it would be as strong as leaving it alone. Anyways, here is the picture.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I would pass on the Gorilla Glue as it foams up as it sets.

Before you glue the insert (and it should be walnut), you want to stain the insert. The epoxy will prevent stain from penetrating the wood and you will have a light line around the insert.

For the repair ahead of the lock panel, you need to remove some of the broken wood so you have flats to glue the repair to. Once again choose walnut and try to get matching grain.

 

[Keb]

I would suggest "titebond III" as a good wood to wood glue. It's the best I've found for sticking wood to wood.

 

[Longone]

I would suggest "titebond III" as a good wood to wood glue. It's the best I've found for sticking wood to wood.

Best I've found as well.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

I would use the Titebond III wood glue also. For the inlay on the side of the stock, have you thought about making new metal or brass pieces for your inlay? That way you won't have to worry about matching grain or staining.

 

[bubba.50]

I agree on the Titebond except I prefer TitebondII instead over TitebondIII

 

[NEW222]

Ok. So, here's the beef. I looked around today for a piece of walnut with no availability (or at least a small piece). So, I looked again then realized that the inlay was completely covered by the barrel wedge. So, I did use the Gorilla Glue Wood Glue and installed the original piece pictured. Today, I will put the wedge hole in it, followed by carefully scraping away the material required for the plate that holds the wedge. I will do a little more searching for a piece of wood to match for the other missing part by the lock. Stay tuned. I am also hoping to have this ready to shoot this upcoming weekend. Even if not finished, my goal is to make it talk. That is, if I can make it to the store and buy the correct cleaning brushes to give the barrel a cleaning.

Also, thank you all for the help and advice along the way. It is dully noted and appreciated.

 

[Paul R]

New,
Private topic sent.
Paul