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What to do in between hunts....

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Reason I suggest "muzzle down " after cleaning , in about 1973 at the beginning of the Pa, late flintlock rifle season , my hunting bud had bought a used factory built longrifle just before season . He wanted to thoroughly clean the bore as it looked gooy , and didnt know what to do. Who knew much , back in the beginning of Pa. muzzleloading ? His "go to" modern rifle trick , was lighter fluid . He soaked the breach area over night , wiped the bore until he thought it was clean , but didn't get the goop out from the flint breach well enough. Next morning we were in the deer woods , he saw a bunch of deer close , tried to get flintlock to fire several times , and finally got a hang fire and missed . My friend is a master mechanic , and machinest , and is far from mechanically stupid . He analized his mistake , and blamed the problem on the previous owner's excess goo at the breach generated by soaking the breach with strong solvent , and not getting it cleaned properly. We went out in the deer woods the next day after he soaked the rifle breech again , stood the rifle on it's muzzle , and before loading , one new patch brought out the remnants of the breech detritis , that had ran foreward toward the muzzle , the rifle being left "muzzle down after cleaning." Been doing that ever since. Just my humble opinion to avoid fluids left in the breech area , after cleaning. Results may vary due to differences in atmospheric conditions , aka , high or low humidity , etc.. ..........oldwood
 
@oldwood I think your suggestion is a good one. I don't do it that way but the day before the hunt I get some alcohol down the bore and then force it out through the breech with nipple out and let it evaporate overnight. Same thing should work with a fainter by forcing it out the vent. And standing it on the Muzzle sure wouldn't hurt.
 
The guy was just kidding
I know, I just wanted to add to the sarcasm...🙃

Cleaning my traditional muzzleloaders is far better than the cartridge rifles. Some hot water and Murphy's smells a WHOLE LOT BETTER than Butch's, Eds red, or Hoppes. I'm even allowed to clean them in the bathroom which is a lot warmer than the garage, of course followed up by a couple minutes of bore drying with the air gun at at least 60 psi, it dries right up, then a layer of Ballistol and back to work. I try to shoot a couple of caps before reloading, this works with my in lines well.
 
Reason I suggest "muzzle down " after cleaning , in about 1973 at the beginning of the Pa, late flintlock rifle season , my hunting bud had bought a used factory built longrifle just before season . He wanted to thoroughly clean the bore as it looked gooy , and didnt know what to do. Who knew much , back in the beginning of Pa. muzzleloading ? His "go to" modern rifle trick , was lighter fluid . He soaked the breach area over night , wiped the bore until he thought it was clean , but didn't get the goop out from the flint breach well enough. Next morning we were in the deer woods , he saw a bunch of deer close , tried to get flintlock to fire several times , and finally got a hang fire and missed . My friend is a master mechanic , and machinest , and is far from mechanically stupid . He analized his mistake , and blamed the problem on the previous owner's excess goo at the breach generated by soaking the breach with strong solvent , and not getting it cleaned properly. We went out in the deer woods the next day after he soaked the rifle breech again , stood the rifle on it's muzzle , and before loading , one new patch brought out the remnants of the breech detritis , that had ran foreward toward the muzzle , the rifle being left "muzzle down after cleaning." Been doing that ever since. Just my humble opinion to avoid fluids left in the breech area , after cleaning. Results may vary due to differences in atmospheric conditions , aka , high or low humidity , etc.. ..........oldwood
I'll try it, they might fit better in the ml cabinet that way, also.
 
Reason I suggest "muzzle down " after cleaning , in about 1973 at the beginning of the Pa, late flintlock rifle season , my hunting bud had bought a used factory built longrifle just before season . He wanted to thoroughly clean the bore as it looked gooy , and didnt know what to do. Who knew much , back in the beginning of Pa. muzzleloading ? His "go to" modern rifle trick , was lighter fluid . He soaked the breach area over night , wiped the bore until he thought it was clean , but didn't get the goop out from the flint breach well enough. Next morning we were in the deer woods , he saw a bunch of deer close , tried to get flintlock to fire several times , and finally got a hang fire and missed . My friend is a master mechanic , and machinest , and is far from mechanically stupid . He analized his mistake , and blamed the problem on the previous owner's excess goo at the breach generated by soaking the breach with strong solvent , and not getting it cleaned properly. We went out in the deer woods the next day after he soaked the rifle breech again , stood the rifle on it's muzzle , and before loading , one new patch brought out the remnants of the breech detritis , that had ran foreward toward the muzzle , the rifle being left "muzzle down after cleaning." Been doing that ever since. Just my humble opinion to avoid fluids left in the breech area , after cleaning. Results may vary due to differences in atmospheric conditions , aka , high or low humidity , etc.. ..........oldwood
Early on in my Mzldr career I loaded up the Renegade with powder and Maxiball and commenced to snapping 3 caps without successfully firing the rifle. Hmmm, what is a boy to do? Took it upon myself to remove the nipple, dribble powder into the drum, replace the nipple back, cap and 'pop'. Only a measly 'pop'. But the power of the cap plopped the Maxiball out onto the grass.
Removed the nipple once more, a bit more powder, nipple back, cap on and 'pop' once more. This time a plug of oiled soaked powder thudded into the grass at me feet.
Lesson learned: Don't over oil the rifle and be sure to remove all of it before loading up when pulling it out of storage.
 
I know, I just wanted to add to the sarcasm...🙃

Cleaning my traditional muzzleloaders is far better than the cartridge rifles. Some hot water and Murphy's smells a WHOLE LOT BETTER than Butch's, Eds red, or Hoppes. I'm even allowed to clean them in the bathroom which is a lot warmer than the garage, of course followed up by a couple minutes of bore drying with the air gun at at least 60 psi, it dries right up, then a layer of Ballistol and back to work. I try to shoot a couple of caps before reloading, this works with my in lines well.

I should of known , I agree cleaning ML are easy but I do like the smell of Hoppes #9.
 
No it won't cause damage to the barrel loaded. If the gun had been fired then reloaded well then that's a problem. I leave mine loaded and pull the cap. Right now I've got 3 loaded so when I get to my property I pick the best gun for the situation. Or my mood.
Yes sir, that's how I do it too!

Ironically, no doubt in my mind, a muzzleloader in the old days was never left unloaded.
 
Reason I suggest "muzzle down " after cleaning , in about 1973 at the beginning of the Pa, late flintlock rifle season , my hunting bud had bought a used factory built longrifle just before season . He wanted to thoroughly clean the bore as it looked gooy , and didnt know what to do. Who knew much , back in the beginning of Pa. muzzleloading ? His "go to" modern rifle trick , was lighter fluid . He soaked the breach area over night , wiped the bore until he thought it was clean , but didn't get the goop out from the flint breach well enough. Next morning we were in the deer woods , he saw a bunch of deer close , tried to get flintlock to fire several times , and finally got a hang fire and missed . My friend is a master mechanic , and machinest , and is far from mechanically stupid . He analized his mistake , and blamed the problem on the previous owner's excess goo at the breach generated by soaking the breach with strong solvent , and not getting it cleaned properly. We went out in the deer woods the next day after he soaked the rifle breech again , stood the rifle on it's muzzle , and before loading , one new patch brought out the remnants of the breech detritis , that had ran foreward toward the muzzle , the rifle being left "muzzle down after cleaning." Been doing that ever since. Just my humble opinion to avoid fluids left in the breech area , after cleaning. Results may vary due to differences in atmospheric conditions , aka , high or low humidity , etc.. ..........oldwood
You definitely have a valid point, Oldwood. Lots of folks are adamant about using the muzzle down process.

However, its to my belief that the trick is to never allow the breech to accumulate gunk buildup to begin with. In sort, stay on top of it. With one of my ML's I did not use the process I have now adopted. But so far, so good.

I might also add that, unless away from home, I always follow up with compressed air from my air compressor after running a little lacquer thinner down through the flash hole, allow it to sit for a minute or two in the breech, then blow the compressed air into the flash hole and out the the barrel. IMO, this process also ascertains the passageway is clear, by evidence of the amount of air coming out the muzzle.

I try to use at least 100 PSI when doing so.
 
You definitely have a valid point, Oldwood. Lots of folks are adamant about using the muzzle down process.

However, its to my belief that the trick is to never allow the breech to accumulate gunk buildup to begin with. In sort, stay on top of it. With one of my ML's I did not use the process I have now adopted. But so far, so good.

I might also add that, unless away from home, I always follow up with compressed air from my air compressor after running a little lacquer thinner down through the flash hole, allow it to sit for a minute or two in the breech, then blow the compressed air into the flash hole and out the the barrel. IMO, this process also ascertains the passageway is clear, by evidence of the amount of air coming out the muzzle.

I try to use at least 100 PSI when doing so.
Not owning a compressor, I run a tight patch in and out a few times. Doubt I get anywhere near 100 psi but it works.
 
pull the load , no need to clean [ other than maybe run a patch down to remove any powder left behind] , if you shoot it, you have to clean it.
Agree, I just charge my air compressor and give the touch hole a blast. Out pops the load. A quick swab to remove any lingering powder and it's back on the wall it goes. Semper Fi.
 
Easy to pick up a suppository firearm and determine whether it is loaded. A muzzle loader not so much so. At age 75 I do not want to be looking at my flintlock wondering if it is still loaded from last use. Fire it off safely or do as Colonial suggests above.
There are two suppository arms I keep loaded at home. Bedside and desk. And they disappear when the grandkids arrive.
 
Easy to pick up a suppository firearm and determine whether it is loaded. A muzzle loader not so much so. At age 75 I do not want to be looking at my flintlock wondering if it is still loaded from last use. Fire it off safely or do as Colonial suggests above.
There are two suppository arms I keep loaded at home. Bedside and desk. And they disappear when the grandkids arrive.
That's a good approach.

Myself, a loaded rifle has a note under the hammer that says "LOADED" then it goes into a case and is stored in a secure room.
 
I love shooting my Flinters so I may leave it loaded for a weekend then pick a target and squeeze through the shot.Unless huntin in damp or humid weather, then I will shoot after each hunt. Needed? Probably not but gives me piece of mind in a fresh load and offers me continued practice through the season.
 
Reason I suggest "muzzle down " after cleaning , in about 1973 at the beginning of the Pa, late flintlock rifle season , my hunting bud had bought a used factory built longrifle just before season . He wanted to thoroughly clean the bore as it looked gooy , and didnt know what to do. Who knew much , back in the beginning of Pa. muzzleloading ? His "go to" modern rifle trick , was lighter fluid . He soaked the breach area over night , wiped the bore until he thought it was clean , but didn't get the goop out from the flint breach well enough. Next morning we were in the deer woods , he saw a bunch of deer close , tried to get flintlock to fire several times , and finally got a hang fire and missed . My friend is a master mechanic , and machinest , and is far from mechanically stupid . He analized his mistake , and blamed the problem on the previous owner's excess goo at the breach generated by soaking the breach with strong solvent , and not getting it cleaned properly. We went out in the deer woods the next day after he soaked the rifle breech again , stood the rifle on it's muzzle , and before loading , one new patch brought out the remnants of the breech detritis , that had ran foreward toward the muzzle , the rifle being left "muzzle down after cleaning." Been doing that ever since. Just my humble opinion to avoid fluids left in the breech area , after cleaning. Results may vary due to differences in atmospheric conditions , aka , high or low humidity , etc.. ..........oldwood
I learned from my dad to always let any gun stand upside down overnight after you clean and lubricate it. It doesn't matter what era the gun is from. Then, when I take that gun out to shoot it, I run a dry patch down the barrel. I usually snap a cap on my muzzleloaders too. I have had very few issues over the years.
 
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