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cheffy

32 Cal.
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Ok remember I'm a little new at this so I've got tons of questions. I've got a Pietta .44 Army. got rid of those pellet loads that the guy at the shop recommended and bought some Goex. now I've used pre-made wads over it with good results. I've read somewhere here about making your own and I'm all for that. The question is What to soak/saturate them in? I've also read about using stuff like cornmeal/grits. is there any advantage except that you are not spending the time making wads?
thanks for all the help.
 
I soak my home made felt wads in a mix of Crisco and bees wax. Usually about a 50/50 mix is good for most environments. It works for me.
 
Here is one place to get wad matieral: http://www.durofelt.com/image_26.html . Look at the 1/8" Hard F-1. I bought a set of punches at Harbor Freight. As for lube, you can get creative. Bees wax and Crisco or olive oil or rendered animal fat. See what works best for you.
 
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I made wads for a while. Personally I think the store bought might be a little more consistent. The cornmeal is used because you want the ball as close to the end of the chamber as possible on the idea the accuracy will be better BUT... if you use a low powder charge there will be an air space which is a big NO NO in black powder. SO... you use the cornmeal/cream of wheat to make up the difference in space.
Now, most folks claim the light charges are more accurate. Could be, might be, never know fer sure but I always get the best accuracy at nearly full loads. I think this is especially true with the 44 caliber.
 
Well I do like the whole do it yourself thing but... I just happened to find the pre made ones on sale so I ordered several hundred. I will file away the info just in case I need it later.

so in reference to the cornmeal thing... I'm using about 24gr with a wad. would I still need a wad over powder or just powder, cornmeal, ball.
what's considered a "full load" of powder?
 
I'll go with Cowpoke1955. Durafelt & a Harbor Freight punch.

Beeswax and Crisco, start about 50/50. I use a small glass jar (maybe held jam or jelly one time, wide is best, like a salsa jar), throw the wads, beeswax, & Crisco in and microwave for perhaps 30 seconds. The result should be wads impregnated with the lubricant. You can tinker with the mix ratio of beeswax/Crisco to meet your needs, however greasy or stiff you like ... and I'm not certain one makes a better, more accurate load than another. If the wads have not soaked up the lube mix, try another 10 to 30 second shots in the microwave until they do.

Lacking a microwave, set the jar in a pan of boiling water and wait until the mixture is absorbed.

I like the mix where, when you put the lid on the glass jar and shake it, the wads don't stick together. This is 98% art and 2% science, and the tolerance is wide.
 
I have the same gun as you and I chased my tail for a while with the same questions. If you make the lube to soft I will melt in the chambers after you load a warm gun. More wax. I ended up melting parafin into my mix to stiffen it up. I made my own wads but sharpening a pipe nipple is'nt easy because 3/8 nipple is too small and a 1/2 nipple is to big. I sharpened a 3/8 inside and outside to get .45 cal. The cheapest wad cutter I've saw was at Track of the wolf $20. I tryed the corn meal and I started getting 3" m.o.a.. Big difference getting the ball closer to the force cone. I tried making paper cartridges. You can find a few u-tube videos on that but unless you expose the powder when you insert the cartridge in the chamber they'll only go bang 1/2 the time. I dono, I ended up using a dry wad on the powder and two lubed wads, then the ball then some softer lube on top of the ball. If you get anyware let me know. :shake:
 
I have long preached the virtues of a mix of mutton tallow, canning paraffin and beeswax. So long, that after a few years the mix was named after me: Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant.
The recipe is:

1 part canning paraffin, such as made by Gulf or Parowax. Find it in 1 lb. blocks at your grocery or hardware store, in the canning section.

1 part mutton tallow. It's sold (once again) by Dixie Gun Works. Or you may find it on the internet.

1/2 part beeswax. The real stuff. Toilet seals have not been made of real beeswax for 10 or 15 years, so forget that. It's expensive at craft stores but local beekeepers will have it reasonably priced. Call your county extension agent to find out who herds bees in your area, or check the Yellow pages under Honey.

All measurements are by weight, not volume. I measure 200/200/100 grams with a kitchen scale and put the ingredients in a quart, widemouth Mason jar. Place the jar in 3 or 4 inches of boiling water, the safest way to melt waxes and tallow.
When they're thoroughly melted, mix well with a clean stick or disposable chopstick.
Remove from heat. Allow to cool at room temperature.

To lubricate wads, put them in a clean tuna or pet food can, with the label removed. Place can on the stove at very low heat. Add 2 or 3 Tablespoons of Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant. Allow to melt thoroughly, then stir wads with chopstick or clean stick.
Remove can from heat. Allow to cool. Snap plastic pet food lid over the can to keep crud out and moisture in.
Write contents on side of can with wide marker: 44 WADS / GATOFEO LUBE or whatever.
A variety of wads, of different sizes and lubes, can be kept in these cans, stacked on top of each other on a shelf.

Someone will ask, "Hey, can I use Crisco instead of mutton tallow?" or some such thing. Yes, you can but the effectiveness of the lube is not as good. I have tried all manner of substitutes but the result doesn't work as well as this combination of mutton tallow, canning paraffin and real beeswax.

Why canning paraffin? Because it's pure. Who knows what's in old candles, especially the scented variety. Canning paraffin is nothing but.

Mutton tallow is worth the effort to find. It's been recommended as a black powder lubricant as far back as the mid 1800s. It does not contain lanolin, as I understand it, but there's something in it that makes it stand out from all other tallow, including bear, elk, deer, turkey, pig, chicken and beef. I've tried them all and not found anything that works as well.

The above recipe traces its roots to the 19th century factory recipe for outside lubricated bullets, which I found in a 1940s American Rifleman. Factories are understandably reluctant to divulge recipes, but this recipe was outdated when published and of no concern.
With today's resurgence of black powder shooting, it is again of interest.

I'm not recommending it because it bears my name. I'm recommending it because it works as well or better than current black powder lubricants in keeping fouling soft. Others who have tried it will attest to its excellence.

It's worth the effort to find the ingredients and make it. That 500 grams of ingredients will lubricate thousands of wads.

As for Duofelt, you couldn't find a finer outfit. Check our her clearance area for discounted 1/8" hard felt sheets. You may wish to buy some 1/4" felt as well, rather than using a filler such as Cream of Wheat or corn meal (preferred, because corn meal compresses. Cream of Wheat doesn't compress much, requiring more precise measurement).

Add the powder, then thumb in a greased wad. Seat the wad but not yet the ball. Why? Because sooner or later you'll forget to put powder in a chamber; it's easier to remove a wad than a stuck ball. Also, seating the wad and ball separately give you a better feel for how much pressure you're applying to either. Consistent seating pressure aids accuracy.

Use a .454 inch ball. The larger ball will seal better in the chamber, and provide a wider bearing band for the rifling to grip. This may aid accuracy.

If you use a greased felt wad, there is no need to put loose grease over the ball after it's seated.

Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant is excellent for wads, patches, lead bullets and outside lubricated bullets such as the .32 and .41 Long Colt. I use it for all black powder projectile applications.
 
cheffy said:
Well I do like the whole do it yourself thing but... I just happened to find the pre made ones on sale so I ordered several hundred. I will file away the info just in case I need it later.

so in reference to the cornmeal thing... I'm using about 24gr with a wad. would I still need a wad over powder or just powder, cornmeal, ball.
what's considered a "full load" of powder?

a 24 gr charge should not need any filler atop - just your felt then ball/slug.
max charge should be around 30gr 3F.
remember that if the felt wad has grease/wax mix that it can contaminate the powder if left for any length of time.
seems I remember some commercail bought felts had a dry lube.
myself I use a dry felt and a smear of a grease/wax mix I make up atop the slug or ball. this also seals the powder from any dampness and if carefully applied on the nipple seals the cap also. important in humid/rainy weather. I use a flat toothpick to apply a smear to the nipple.
 
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