• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

using lard

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I was wondering can you use lard as a lube for roundballs or conicals

You have to watch the salt contents of some animal fats, it could do more harm than good...

If it's store bought lard, check the sodium level on the nutrition facts lable, buy the one with the least amount of salts...

Also, there's a chance it will turn rancid...
 
I know some guys who use Crisco and like it.Olive oil and bees wax mixture makes a good patch lube.You could also get some beef or venison fat and render it down to tallow and mix with bees wax.Myself,I like bear grease and bees wax mix.Hope this helps.
Moonax
 
MY MIX: IS BEESWAX,CRISCO,AND A TABLESPOON OF OLIVE OIL,IT SEEM THE LUBE IS GREAT FOR CONICALS EVEN WHEN THE WEATHER GETS WARMS THE STUFF STILL STAY WERE YOU PUT IN IN THE GROVES ON THE REALS CONICALS .I AM GOING TO TRY IT NEXT TIME WITH ROUND BALL PATCHES
 
I rendered the fat trimed from a Brisket then mixed with bees wax I also added some peperment oil as the fat tends to go rancid after a while :results:
 
I also use bear fat, and render it into oil. Lard does have salts which could cause rust. What I do with lard is make what I call my 'edible candles'. They are actually just period style fat candles mixed with some beeswax (4 parts lard to one part beeswax ratio). I let them age for a while in the fridge. They will turn a tannish color when aged. I carry a couple of these in my haversack when I need candle light. While out hunting, if I choose to fry up some squirrel or other small game I got while afield, I'll whack a small hunk off the bottom of one of the candles and throw it in the fry pan. It's great for having a bit of liquid to fry in. These lard candles serve double duty for both light and frying. The wick is just an 1/8 inch string of hemp.
Ohio Rusty
 
I too use bear grease however I've never rendered the fat to oil before. An old trapper from the Adirondacks who's no longer here put up the grease that I am using. I have about 20 lbs of bear fat in the freezer right now that was just given to me in Sept, that I want to make into oil. Can any of you gent's who do it walk me through the process so I do it right? Never done this before, anything I should know about doing this?

Thanks!
 
I use a cast iron pot on low heat and add small chunks of the fat...it will melt keep adding fat. you will need to strain the cooked fat(craklins) out. I use cheese cloth.
 
JRDavis is right on track about using low heat. You just want to heat the chunks, not fry them. As you start heating the fat, it starts to become somewhat opaque, looking wet. Let me back up a second ... fat is made up of millions of globules ...micro-balloons if you will. As fat is heated the fat in the micro-balloon is turned to liquid and the heat weakens the outer membrane permitting the liquid fat to escape the broken membrane when pressure is put on the chunk of fat. I use a small spatula with slits in the spatula, and a thin steel skillet. As I press on the heated fat, liquid fat is released into the pan, and I pour that off into a jar. I keep up the pressing and pouring until I get a good amount in a jar. A baby food jar is excellent. After the fat cools, it becomes white, like thin lard. I'll put the jar with the lid on tight into a pan of very warm water, or over the heater vent and remelt it until all becomes liquid again. It is set aside and as it cools, the fat separates. the oil floats on top of the thicker fat below. I siphon that off with an eye dropper and put the liquid, watery fat (oil) in small bottles I can close with a cork. That watery fat stays watery, like oil, and that is what I use for patch lube mostly. The other thicker lard-like fat can be used also. Mixed with a bit of beeswax, you can make it the consistency of natural lube 1000. Or you can use it as a water proofer for boots, moccasins, etc.
Bear fat is amazing stuff as patch lube, and bears oil after rendered doesn't go rancid readily. I've had some in bottles for 2 years, and it's as good as the day I made it.
I hope this helps answer your question.
Ohio Rusty
 
I use equal parts of lard, beeswax and chicken fat. The chicken fat I get from the rotisserie at the local supermarket. This mixture keeps the fouling as soft as any thing else I have tried. The only thing to use for heating is a double boiler. :redthumb: :m2c:
Rex Dev
 
Ohio Rusty

Or anyone who renders bear oil. I rendered enough fat to get 4 canning jars full. But I don't seem to be able to get the fat and oil to separate so I can remove the oil. I put the jar in warm water like Ohio Rusty says but after cooling again the entire jar is solidified again and shows no separating of the oil/fat. What am I doing wrong? or should be doing here?

Thanks!
 
If the heat is too high, you'll end up with shortneing, rather than bear's oil, especially from outside fat. This is what we did the first time, as the bears had been dead for a period of time, and we didn't want to open them up for the inside fat(hit by a rain). The inside fat, from around the guts, is the very best for getting nice clean liquid oil. IT can be pressed out, or very low heat used.
: IT is good for patch lube, but will not let you shoot all day without cleaning, but a few shots may be taken before having to swab the bore. Enough for hunting large game, anyway. A different lube like moose snot, might be better for small game hunting where many shots are taken over the course of a day's hunt.
: MARMOT gut oil is also prized for the same use. IT is even a better lubricant and waterproofer than is bear oil. It is so high in oil content, that you can merely rub a handful of fat on your boots. Afterwards, it takes 3 washings with dish detergent to get the oil off your hands. Well stiched leather boots will repell water if submerged, for a good 4 hours if treated first with marmot oil. Unfortunately, it is now illegal to shoot Hoary Marmots here - perhaps elsewhere it's still OK.
 
Swamp Rat: Make sure you leave the jar lids ON ... it will act like a mini pressure cooker and force the oil to separate. If you have a full jar, Pour off half into another jar so your have pleany of air space above the fat. Heat it again ..... Turn the half jar of fat to liquid completely again, then set it aside, still with the lid on and let it set. It will take a bit but the oil is lighteer than the heavier fat, and the heavier fat has to sink down and settle, forcing the oil to come to the top. You may have to heat and set the jar a couple of times, but you will see the separation occur. If I heat the fat in the evening, by the next morning, I have enough oil to siphon off. You not doing anything wrong, it just may take a few heating and cooling sessions to produce the oil you want.
Ohio Rusty
 

Latest posts

Back
Top