Tom Compton
54 Cal.
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When installing a single trigger, should the pin be closer or further from the trigger for a lighter (target) pull?
Thx in advance
TC
Thx in advance
TC
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trigger pin location
- Thread starter Tom Compton
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Larry Akers
40 Cal.
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you want the pivot pin (which is what I think you are asking about) as high as you can get it. The point at which the trigger blade contacts the sear arm should be no more than 3/8" behind the pivot.
Capt. Jas.
58 Cal.
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Many top buiders agree with high as possible but prefer about 1/2" to 9/16" forward to relieve mushiness.
Many originals were pinned quite low.
Many originals were pinned quite low.
galamb
58 Cal.
This is a very basic diagram of how to effect the "weight" of the trigger.
I can't say I agree with the picture above.
The location of the trigger which one puts their finger on to the lock sear arm doesn't have much to do with the amount of pull weight.
The thing that effects the pull weight is the distance from the pivot pin to the sear arm.
To answer the OP's question, I try to locate the pivot pin 5/16" ahead of the lock sear arm.
This distance IMO is the best compromise between the length of the trigger pull required to release the lock and the weight of the trigger pull needed to do the job.
A good lock like a Siler or L&R will fire with a pull weight of 2-3 pounds with the pivot located as I've described.
The location of the trigger which one puts their finger on to the lock sear arm doesn't have much to do with the amount of pull weight.
The thing that effects the pull weight is the distance from the pivot pin to the sear arm.
To answer the OP's question, I try to locate the pivot pin 5/16" ahead of the lock sear arm.
This distance IMO is the best compromise between the length of the trigger pull required to release the lock and the weight of the trigger pull needed to do the job.
A good lock like a Siler or L&R will fire with a pull weight of 2-3 pounds with the pivot located as I've described.
Depends on what you are calling the "pin". Let's assume the pivot pin retaining the trigger and not the sear arm. A simple trigger is a crowbar, the shorter the horizontal tail the more "crowbar" effect. On the vertical leg-you cannot extend the trigger beyond what it ought to be (that is the trigger face can't be lengthened) so on the vertical part of the crowbar" the only option is to move the pivot pin higher. Now, I am assuming you are planning to pin the trigger to the stock and not use a trigger plate with a post, etc. for a pin. The sear arm's position is set so in a stock pin job the top of the trigger blade (horizontal arm) usually must slope upward towards the pin location. The hole for the pin- I usually drill very close to the bottom of the lock mortise. You can move the hole back a little but the curve of the mortise often limits this. When you put the lock in place the lock covers the pin. On the opposite side of the stock the exit hole (NEVER use a blind hole) is visible unless a very large side plate covers it.
These simple triggers- I don't want to sound presumptuous in saying ALL single triggers were stock pinned- I am told that trigger plates with posts are pc but I haven't found any. If you have a pictorial type book on early muzzle loaders and examine photos of firearms with single triggers- with the side plate area shown- almost always you will see the pin below the side plate.
You could go to a higher pin position and an even lighter trigger pull but the mortise into the stock has to be deeper. The position I mentioned will usually create around a 2 lb trigger pull- or at least a very light- acceptable pull for field use.
These simple triggers- I don't want to sound presumptuous in saying ALL single triggers were stock pinned- I am told that trigger plates with posts are pc but I haven't found any. If you have a pictorial type book on early muzzle loaders and examine photos of firearms with single triggers- with the side plate area shown- almost always you will see the pin below the side plate.
You could go to a higher pin position and an even lighter trigger pull but the mortise into the stock has to be deeper. The position I mentioned will usually create around a 2 lb trigger pull- or at least a very light- acceptable pull for field use.
