Got a lemon of a frizzen on a L&R lock, and I'm hitting crunch time with delivery for this gun. I do not have the knowledge or equipment to harden the frizzen myself and need a willing soul. Send me a PM or something. I need help!
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Someone willing to harden a frizzen for me?
- Thread starter jimmy82
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ohio ramrod
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I would contact L&R about it first. Then if not happy find someone else to work on it. :idunno:
Yup L&R will make it good in my experience.
Your making the gun for someone for pay? I have to say HUH??
Your making the gun for someone for pay? I have to say HUH??
Grizzly Adams
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L&R hardened my frizzen for free. They are good folks and will take care of you. Don't trust a bunch of scalawags like us to do it. :haha:
wattlebuster
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It should have never left L&R if it dont spark. Send it back to them an maybe the second try will be the charm
Don't even touch it... contact L&R, they will do right and correct it.
Had an issue with a L&R lock. They took care of it in days. Contact them. You will be taken care of.
I can't begin to say how many people say their frizzen needs hardening on the forum.
Some are right. Many are wrong.
Have you tested it for hardness?
Have you tried to file it with a medium or fine cut file?
Try filing one of the edges that meets the frizzen face at a slight angle to the face.
If the file removes material, your probably right. The frizzen needs to be properly hardened.
If the file just leaves a bright shiny area without removing any material, the frizzen is fine.
L&R will fix it if it needs fixing.
If you don't have time to use L&R's services and you have a propane torch and some light weight oil like ATF in a bowl, hold the removed frizzen with a pair of pliers above the oil.
Heat the face and upright portion of the frizzen until it is a orange/red color. You don't need to heat the pan cover or the hole this hot so don't worry about that area.
When the upright area and face reaches this color, keep it there for 15-30 seconds and then let it fall into the oil.
Allow it to cool.
After doing this, again test the edge of the frizzen with a flat file.
Again, the file may leave a bright area but it should not cut any metal.
The area where the face of the frizzen meets the pan cover may be soft enough to file. This is fine. You want this area to be softer so it is tougher and less brittle.
For the record, these frizzens are cast out of a hardening alloy steel.
They do not need carburizing or any other special treatment.
Some are right. Many are wrong.
Have you tested it for hardness?
Have you tried to file it with a medium or fine cut file?
Try filing one of the edges that meets the frizzen face at a slight angle to the face.
If the file removes material, your probably right. The frizzen needs to be properly hardened.
If the file just leaves a bright shiny area without removing any material, the frizzen is fine.
L&R will fix it if it needs fixing.
If you don't have time to use L&R's services and you have a propane torch and some light weight oil like ATF in a bowl, hold the removed frizzen with a pair of pliers above the oil.
Heat the face and upright portion of the frizzen until it is a orange/red color. You don't need to heat the pan cover or the hole this hot so don't worry about that area.
When the upright area and face reaches this color, keep it there for 15-30 seconds and then let it fall into the oil.
Allow it to cool.
After doing this, again test the edge of the frizzen with a flat file.
Again, the file may leave a bright area but it should not cut any metal.
The area where the face of the frizzen meets the pan cover may be soft enough to file. This is fine. You want this area to be softer so it is tougher and less brittle.
For the record, these frizzens are cast out of a hardening alloy steel.
They do not need carburizing or any other special treatment.
Thanks for the replies, and to Zonnie, yup file sure bit in. Getting it worked on now. Should have thought to test it before it was ever inlet. Lesson learned. I have another L&R for a different set of parts, if it is soft too it will probably make the trek back.
The rifle is a farewell gift to my company commander who leaves in May. The unit is getting some money together to compensate for the work done. Finished building it with time to spare, but took it out to make smoke and it didn't...
Multiple flints in different positions and close to 200 trigger pulls for 6 shots. Tested it in a dark room and nothing. Even my wife's Pedersoli that crushed flints went off more reliably while we figured that one out.
The rifle is a farewell gift to my company commander who leaves in May. The unit is getting some money together to compensate for the work done. Finished building it with time to spare, but took it out to make smoke and it didn't...
Multiple flints in different positions and close to 200 trigger pulls for 6 shots. Tested it in a dark room and nothing. Even my wife's Pedersoli that crushed flints went off more reliably while we figured that one out.
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Hi,
Jim is sending me the lock. I want to make sure everything is working properly before and after I heat treat the frizzen. Zonie is correct about the heat treating of the high carbon steels used in these frizzens. However, in some cases, the hardening process will burn off some of the carbon within the steel near the surface. By case hardening the frizzen, that carbon is replaced (and more so) such that every L&R or any other maker's frizzens that I have case hardened, spark significantly better than when simply through hardened by heating and quenching. Jim, after case hardening the frizzen I will temper the entire part at 375 degrees for 1 hour and then subsequently heat the toe to a blue color (550). You should be ready to go in plenty of time.
dave
Jim is sending me the lock. I want to make sure everything is working properly before and after I heat treat the frizzen. Zonie is correct about the heat treating of the high carbon steels used in these frizzens. However, in some cases, the hardening process will burn off some of the carbon within the steel near the surface. By case hardening the frizzen, that carbon is replaced (and more so) such that every L&R or any other maker's frizzens that I have case hardened, spark significantly better than when simply through hardened by heating and quenching. Jim, after case hardening the frizzen I will temper the entire part at 375 degrees for 1 hour and then subsequently heat the toe to a blue color (550). You should be ready to go in plenty of time.
dave
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I have found the same thing Dave about adding carbon to through hardening steel surfaces.
I have not found it necessary to draw the temper any more at the toe than what the whole frizzen is drawn.
I have not found it necessary to draw the temper any more at the toe than what the whole frizzen is drawn.
ohio ramrod
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Pedroseli's are know for having too heavy of a frizzen spring causing the flints to crush. I have had good success lightening the spring and getting much longer flint life with better spark! :idunno:
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