Some Of My Beeswax

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

Alright it is sort of a stupid title for this thread, but I had a pretty good day today and this seemed an appropriate title.

After months of waiting for it to be restocked in a local store I managed to score a 14 oz. brick of pure natural beeswax from a local store.

I intend to use this as an additive or component for patch and wool felt wad lubes.

For a moderate amount of shooting and hunting how long could I expect this much beeswax to last?

I do not shoot too much in year like the rest of you might, and most of my BP lubricants are store bought like bore butter and WL1000, which I think might be the same stuff.

Now if I can just get some more mutton tallow or maybe buy some mink oil I can start making alot more home made BP lubricant products.

When many of you here make your own, how much homemade lube do you use, and how long does each part of it last compared to how much you intend to shoot?

Most of my beewax goes toward archery or lace work and usually I can only buy about an ounce to 2 ounces at at a time. I also can't get to the store that sells it (usually low amount of stock) all that often either.

This little brick will be preserved for BP use only, so I just want to know what I can expect for how much shooting.

Extremely hot weather here for most of the year sub-freezing for only 3 to 4 months.

I intend on using a Olive oil, beeswax, mutton tallow mixes, with perhaps an occasional use of some canola oil.

Thank you for any replies.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Depends on your recipe. 14 oz beeswax will last me about 1,600 shots in a .54 cal.

 

[mooman76]

There was someone on the castboolits board that sold his own beeswax from his hives.

 

[William O.]

Once I got the right ratio of olive oil to beeswax, about 7-1 I found that it lasted me for many years. One thing I had to also learn was that is order for the patch lube to work without fouling the fresh powder charge is to not use too much of it, so after dipping the patch material in warmed liquid lube I squeezed out as much as I could and then blotted the rest with paper towels leaving the material only slightly oily feeling. That amount worked best and allowed me to store in an empty cap tin for use at the range for anything else that needed it. It doesn't take much beeswax to stiffen up any lube once the summer temps are gone either, so sparing use will see that brick last a good long time.

 

[Treestalker]

Just a thought; years ago my brother was friends with a Catholic girl who saved him candle stubs. They were beeswax, and when they melted to a certain point, they were replaced. I understand the Catholics don't use beeswax candles anymore, but it's worth asking? Treestalker.

 

[RADeO]

Just a thought; years ago my brother was friends with a Catholic girl who saved him candle stubs. They were beeswax, and when they melted to a certain point, they were replaced. I understand the Catholics don't use beeswax candles anymore, but it's worth asking? Treestalker.

They are only 50% beeswax now due to the expense of pure beeswax.

 

[Treestalker]

Thank you.

 

[Britsmoothy]

I make mine in a sweet/candy tin and rub the patches in it as and when....I make it so it melts to the touch though!

B.

 

[dikman]

Bull, I do a similar thing. I made a simple press from some wood and a small G clamp. I drop the patches in the hot mix, then pick them out with tweezers (hot!!), stack them in the clamp and then tighten it up to squeeze out all the excess wax. Messy, but it leaves a minimum of wax on the patches.

Cpl. Ashencheeks, you can make your own mutton tallow, it's not particularly difficult.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I don't count. It lasts as long as it lasts.
I don't figure ratio either. If it is too soft, I add more wax. If it isn't soft enuf, I add more oil. Works for me.
Beeswax is easy to acquire. Often it can be had for free. Just contact your county extension service officer and ask for a list of beekeepers. Usually friendly folks. To most, the wax is a nusiance byproduct of their honey production. Many will give away, uncleaned. Some will sell cleaned very reasonably. Most will respond even more favorably if you buy some of their honey. And, that is a win-win deal for everyone.

 

[Patocazador]

It's hot here. So hot this week that I used my regular conical bullet lube of 50/50 beeswax/lard for a patch lube yesterday. The TOW mink oil was mushy and messy in the 94 deg. heat. It worked great although a 40/60 mix of beeswax/lard would probably be just right for a patch lube.

 

[Britsmoothy]

I don't count. It lasts as long as it lasts.
I don't figure ratio either. If it is too soft, I add more wax. If it isn't soft enuf, I add more oil. Works for me.
Beeswax is easy to acquire. Often it can be had for free. Just contact your county extension service officer and ask for a list of beekeepers. Usually friendly folks. To most, the wax is a nusiance byproduct of their honey production. Many will give away, uncleaned. Some will sell cleaned very reasonably. Most will respond even more favorably if you buy some of their honey. And, that is a win-win deal for everyone.

:thumbsup:

 

[swathdiver]

Not sure where you live but there's bound to be a beekeeper or two around you. Buy it direct from them or maybe they'll even give you some for free.

Most lube recipes only call for one or two parts beeswax, it should last a while.

 

[running horse]

Don't mean to hijack your thread but do you do something to get it to mix all the way I missed some bees wax and rendered lard the other day and the top was super hard, cut into it and it seams the wax didn't mix with the lard all the way. Any suggestions

 

[Brokennock]

When I make my olive oil and bee's wax lube I find it best to keep stirring the mixture after it is removed from the heat until the consistency does not appear to be changing anymore.

 

[dikman]

Make sure it's hot enough and thoroughly stirred. I've mixed beeswax, mutton tallow and paraffin wax together and never had any problems.

 

[William O.]

Bull, I do a similar thing. I made a simple press from some wood and a small G clamp. I drop the patches in the hot mix, then pick them out with tweezers (hot!!), stack them in the clamp and then tighten it up to squeeze out all the excess wax. Messy, but it leaves a minimum of wax on the patches.

Hey, that sounds like a good way to do it!

Cpl. Ashencheeks, you can make your own mutton tallow, it's not particularly difficult.

 

[nkbj]

Depending upon the mix...
If melted and mixed beeswax lubes are poured into a container to cool the beeswax can solidify at the outer perimeter quicker, forcing the adjuncts to migrate in greater concentration towards the center of the container. Pouring the lube into a shallow pan to quick cool and then packing it into a container overcomes the tendency for separation.

 

[nhmoose]

http://www.bulkapothecary.com/product/raw-ingredients/waxes-and-butters/beeswax-white-and-yellow/

http://www.ebeehoney.com/beeswax.html

8 seconds for Bing

 

[ylhatch]

As well as the new knowledge we have that "pure"
Must contain 51% active ingrediend.