Scary sharp system.....

[GANGGREEN]

Has anybody used the "Scary Sharp" sharpening system with float glass and 3M lapping film? It's a cheap system and looks to be more than capable of producing what it claims (scary sharp knives and chisels). I've struggled for years getting my less than high quality chisels really sharp and I've finally come to the realization that until I get good enough tools and learn how to keep them sharp that I'll struggle to build quality muzzleloaders.

The plan at this point is either to get Stanley Sweetheart chisels and possibly Schaaf gouges and parting tools, plus a decent micro set of chisels, gouges and V-tools (if I want to stay on the low end and save money) or to go full-hog and get a good set of Pfeil tools. I'm convinced that I can keep the straight chisels sharp now between my stones and this scary sharp system, but I still have to learn to sharpen the gouges and V-tools. I've even considered getting a good Rikon grinder with CBN wheels if anyone has an opinion about that system.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
I use that method with a modification. Instead of glass, I use cheap 12" square polished granite tiles bought from Home Depot. I have 2 sharpening stations, one for my wood chisels and one for my gravers. I use 3-M abrasive sheets but I do not wet them to hold them in place. I simply hold them down with my left hand and sharpen the tool with my right. In the way I do it, you can also use standard aluminum oxide sand paper. The 3-M sheets can be washed with soap and water occasionally to clean off the residue from sharpening. A small sheet can last a long, long time that way. I polish my tools with a leather strop charged with simichrome polish.

dave

 

[GANGGREEN]

Thanks Dave. I may try the granite tiles, because I'd prefer to have one or two surfaces, rather than 3, 4, 5 or 6. I saw a video that suggested that if you use the very, very fine lapping film that it eliminates the need to strop. Do you suppose that's hogwash or possibly true?

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Up to now, I have only used oil-stones to sharpen, but my chisels are old or ancient, and take a very fine edge.
You hit the important part in your opening post, GangGreen, ...Good quality chisels etc!
I only bought mine in antique shops and such , back home in the UK. Liked the straw-coloured steel, or some that looked semi-transparent, like ceramic. Had a good lot of my G-fathers and G-G-fathers as well, so was well set. Never did trust new ones, LOL!

I strop, Ganggreen.

 

[GANGGREEN]

I guess the next question would be about sharpening gouges or V-tools. Do you just "feel it" and do it by hand on the lapping film or is there some sort of jig or system that will guide them? I presume I'll still need to purchase some round stones to polish the insides of the gouges (or make forms out of wood and wrap the lapping film around it).

 

[GANGGREEN]

The best chisel I have turned up in my shop and I don't even know where I got it, probably at a garage sale or something. It has a European stamp on it, probably German and it's very old, but damn, it's a sharp little thing and has become my go to tool for stuff that doesn't require a really, really small chisel. I'd love to have a full set of good quality tools and I've sworn to myself that I'm going to make it happen this spring, come hell or high water. I have heard very good reviews on the Stanley Sweetheart chisels and the Schaaf gouges though and neither of them would break the bank. I'm just not sure if I should "settle" for those or just buy the best and plan on using them until the day I die.

Up to now, I have only used oil-stones to sharpen, but my chisels are old or ancient, and take a very fine edge.
You hit the important part in your opening post, GanGreen, ...Good quality chisels etc!
I only bought mine in antique shops and such , back home in the UK. Liked the straw-coloured steel, or some that looked semi-transparent, like ceramic. Had a good lot of my G-fathers and G-G-fathers as well, so was well set. Never did trust new ones, LOL!

 

[Pukka Bundook]

RE. sharpening V tools and gouges, I use the same oil-stone.
In the old days, an apprentice was taught hand-eye co-ordination, and it is quite remarkable what the hand and eye can accomplish. I never like the idea of jigs. Never use them.
A gauge is sharpened (outside bevel here ) by rolling it in a figure of eight motion on the oil -stone, so that at each sweep, the whole cutting edge is
covered by the stone. This is accomplished with a rocking motion. It is Much easier to do than to try and explain!
For an inside bevel, a rounded stone must be used, or if not available, abrasive paper or cloth could be wrapped around a wood former.

An important note on using an oil-stone;
my best pal back home was a joiner and cabinet maker.
He was taught as a young lad in the late 1920's, to Always use Neatsfoot Oil on the oil-stone. It works.
Neatsfoot never gums a stone up, like engine oil would, and seems to work better than a cutting oil. As the stone warms in use, the oil liquefies and does a first rate job.
If anyone needs a good sharpening stone, the medium and fine " India" stone used to be one of the best.

 

[WyomingWhitetail]

For learning how to sharpen I suggest watching Paul Sellers. He has videos on you tube as well his two websites woodworking masterclass and common woodworking. Mary May also has videos on you tube and her wood carving site on sharpening gouges and V tools. She has a video where she discusses brands of tools as well.

I have the stanley sweetheart socket chisels and have no complaints. Didn't take a whole lot of work to flatten the backs and set them up. I also have a couple ashley isles chisels which are really nice and just bought my first gouges from them as well. The bevel edges on the ashley isles chisels are very fine, thinner than the stanleys, although I haven't ever had a problem getting into dovetail corners or anything. For gun building I bet a person could get by with a couple of carving type chisels rather than full on bench chisels.

A while back I decided to do a little experiment. I picked up a bunch of the usa made buck bros chisels from home depot. Looking through the packages the thickness of the edges vary a lot so I looked through and found the best ground ones I could. After flattening and polishing which honestly didn't take much I sharpened them up and they honestly cut just as good as my Stanley's. May not hold an edge quite as long if your chopping mortices in super hard wood or something but they seem to work just fine. Not as nicely balanced or as nice of handles or as purdy as the ashley isles but they take a good edge easy. Paul Sellers actually uses a lot of chisels sold by some UK supermarket chain or something which are real inexpensive so a sharp edge doesn't necessarily have to cost you a lot. Although I cant say I've ever regretted spending money on nice tools.

 

[poker]

When looking for good chisels, especially carving types, the Dastra from Germany have been the best Ive ever had. I have also liked older Marples and Addis, both English made. None are cheap, but not unreasonable either, for the quality of steel you’re buying.

 

[Col. Batguano]

A good trick is to strop a LOT. I mean every 2"-3" of fine carving of intimate details with those very fine push tools give it a few passes over the strop leather. Give the inside a pass every so often with some very fine wet sandpaper too, like 2000 grit. The more often you strop the less often you will have to stone things, and a lot less tear out you'll experience.