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Replacement stock for Jukar?

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garandman

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GOt a nice enuf Jukar flint rifle that I'd like to get a legit (i.e. one piece) stock for. Hopefully some nice walnut, or maple as a second choice.

Any ideas?

Thx!
 
Some places like Tigerhunt will setup a duplicating machine and dup your original stock, if your willing to pay for it. Unfortunately you would end up spending far more money than what the gun is worth just for the stock, so is it worth it to you?
http://www.gunstockwood.com/
 
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Jukars were good bbls. That bbl. should be 15/16. Measure to make sure.
Any precarve stock with a straight 15/16 bbl. channel can work.
 
Unless you just have a non-monetary reason, and that's fine, you should really think this one over.
A walnut stock is probably worth more without the Jukar parts in it, than it is with them.
 
ebiggs said:
Unless you just have a non-monetary reason, and that's fine, you should really think this one over.
A walnut stock is probably worth more without the Jukar parts in it, than it is with them.


Gift from my father in law, but I'm not so sentimental over it that I want to do something not sensible.

Can you explain why you say what you say? Poor quality lock? Other quality issues? What?
 
Sure.
Since you don't have any money in it, it isn't so bad to spend $150 to $300 bucks on a stock blank or pre-carve. But if you had already spent a couple hundred on it and than added the cost of a stock, it might be much. :hmm:
Some people like their barrels and I guess they are average and do shoot OK. But the lock leaves a lot to be desired and to make a really good gun it may need to be replaced. :(
Now if you add that cost in it is getting way over it's value. :idunno:
But sometimes people just want what they want and if that is you, I hope it turns out to be a jewel. Beauty and value is to each his own. :wink:
 
I pieced together a decent flintlock out of a combination of parts mostly from old production guns. I think the triggerguard and stock were the only new items I bought. The Barrel was an old euroarms and most the hardware was from an old CVA Kentucky. It is no high end custom gun, but it shoots well and looks decent enough. Anyway I paid $60 for a "second" stock from Pecatonica. So you can do it for a reasonable price and have a decent gun. I agree that it would not be worth the price af a good piece of wood that will run in the $150-300 range. You would want a pre-carve blank with only the barrel channel and ramrod hole drilled, no other inlets. It is a good exercise in gun building without an inital investment of close to a grand. A good way to find out if you want to eventually build your own custom gun.
 
As was mentioned the Jukar barrels were usually good and shot accurately.

The Jukar locks were usually poorly made, often not even having a bridle over the tumbler.
This left the inner end of it unsupported and because of this, the hole thru the lockplate would wear out.
The frizzens often were not fully hardened and would not produce a good shower of sparks.

If your lock has a bridle (bridge over the tumbler supporting the inner end) and it makes a good shower of sparks you could get a replacement stock from Pecatonica River for about

I would recommend a Leman (not Lyman) Halfstock with a 15/16" barrel channel. http://www.longrifles-pr.com/stockprices.shtml
If it were made using the lowest cost wood they offer the bill would be $70 for the wood and about $50 for the stock carving/barrel channel cutting. http://www.longrifles-pr.com/stockprices.shtml

You would have to call them and talk to Dick Greensides to tell him you don't want the lock mortice cut.

You would also have to be willing to put probably 120 hours of work into that stock to end up with a finished gun.

You have the advantage of having the old stock so you can measure the dimensions and use the old trigger guard etc.

These stocks are far from a "drop in".
You will have to cut the lock mortice, trigger mortice, butt plate interface, drill lock screw holes and barrel tang holes.

It's a lot of work and when your done the finished gun will be worth a fortune to you but most other people won't pay much over $150 for it.

If that's what you want, go for it and don't forget to use our Gun Builders Bench to help you thru the questions and problems.
 
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Zonie -

Thanx for a stellar overview of what's involved.

My last concern here is what the FMV of the gun would be.

I'd prolly do go for it, if the lock was decent, which it ain't really.
 
I'm genuinely surprised that certain members haven't jumped on this yet to tell you what a piece of junk the gun you have is and it's not worth spending any money on and Blah,Blah,Blah, because it's not some custom built piece or not affiliated with some name that they think it should be.

Bottom line...IT'S YOURS...do as you see fit and ignore the rhetoric!

BPS
 
I am doing a rebuild, pretty much what you are talking about.

I didn't horse with the lock, I simply bought a small siler flint. You might want to pick up a new trigger and or trigger guard also. If it is the Kentucky model I would replace the butt as well.

RE the CVA lock, The case hardening on the tumbler is also spotty. My first one broke at the full cock notch, the second one broke on the sear.

I got a maple blank from TOW and dink with it then let it sit then dink with it.... Been playing about a year with it.

If I were to do it again I would check with these folks http://www.gunstocksplus.com/precarved.html Looks like you would be off and started for just over $100.00 if you didn't want fancy.
 
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I think I get what he is trying to say. In any user group, there are always people who only buy the very best of any commodity available. Which if $$$ allows, I also practice.

Then there are those people who do that, and castigate anyone else who doesn't.

I figger if I do this, I'll prolly end up with $500 into the gun. Which is still half of any other kit built gun.

So, ultimately, the question is "Is this a really good barrel?"

While I'm testing the accuracy, I'm open to opinions on that discussion.
 
garandman said:
I think I get what he is trying to say. In any user group, there are always people who only buy the very best of any commodity available. Which if $$$ allows, I also practice.

Then there are those people who do that, and castigate anyone else who doesn't.

So, ultimately, the question is "Is this a really good barrel?"
Thanks garandman, at least you knew where I was coming from. Just tried to give you a heads up in hopes that you don't get the kind of treatment I got when I asked for help.
As far as the Jukar barrels being "really good", I know several individuals who have or have had Jukar rifles and they were good shooters. One man was a high school friend that recieved a Jukar perc. long rifle (.45) as a Xmas gift when we were seniors. It shot really well with light charges of 50-60 gr of FFFg. Unfortunately he lost it and several other guns in a house fire in the late 70's. The other fellow I met in recent years still has and still uses the Jukar flintlock longrifle he purchased in the early 80's. He has other flinters but he claims that the Jukar holds as good or better group than the rest. He has had to replace several lock parts over the years, but the barrel is still a great shooter.

BPS
 
Entirely up to you, but I would hang it over the mantle in memory of my father in law. If it were purely about the economics of it,I would work my regular job and save up some cash. For the same or less to fix up the Jukar $4-500 by the time you get all done, or a lot of your own hours, 120 hours, even at $10 an hour is 1200 bucks), I could buy a much better performing gun for shooting or hunting. As a couple have already said, no matter what you do to pretty it up, it will have a finished fair market value of about $150, about what it is worth today before you do anything to it.

That said, it is your gun and your time. Building and finishing stocks is a very pleasant way to spend some spare time, I would just suggest starting with better bones.
 
Check out ebay.One feller on there usually has cva kit stocks for around $100 brand new.Will need finishing of course,but probably your cheapest way out.Used on there quite often too.
 
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