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Ram Rod Tips?

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Swampman

69 Cal.
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Will soaking ramrods in linseed oil after the tips are epoxied and pinned on cause the epoxy to give up the ghost?
 
hm, don't know. I've never considered it. I always pin my ramrod tips in case of adhesive failure anyway. (had one pull off in the bore once. :shake: ) Why not soak the rod, then attache the tips? Or are they already attached?
 
mark, i don't think it would effect the epoxy/ wood bond per se, and the pin would be the strength agent to the other side of the bond--epoxy to brass. if that second bond failed the epoxy would still perform as bedding and thereby still make for a tight fit. this bedding and the pin should be very strong even if the adhesive bond fails.

take care, daniel
 
I think if you soaked the ramrod first, the epoxy wouldn't bond to the wood. Maybe I could clean just the end with acetone and then glue the tips on.
 
Acetone might work. To help you could cut some shallow grooves around the end, kind of like threads, to give the epoxy something additional to hold onto.
 
Goldhunter said:
Acetone might work. To help you could cut some shallow grooves around the end, kind of like threads, to give the epoxy something additional to hold onto.
That's kinda what I do with my RR tips. Also try to scrape/scratch some internal grooves in the tip itself. Anything to roughen it up a bit and make the bond a bit stronger. I'm just guessing now, but I would think if the epoxy has set up over a period of time that any linseed oil would have to soak through a LOT of wood to even get to the epoxy.
 
In the past I've just applied several coats to the finished rods, but I'm thinking about a PVC dip tube affair filled with thinned linseed oil to allow then to soak in for a couple of days.
 
you could drop a ball of hardened epoxy into a small jar of the oil and see what happens.
Or two pieces of wood epoxied together,placed in the jar.
 
The epoxy may give info on what might effect its adhesiveness I don't thing it will be hurt by linseed oil it is pretty low cal stuff.
 
Mark Lewis said:
Will soaking ramrods in linseed oil after the tips are epoxied and pinned on cause the epoxy to give up the ghost?

It shouldn't. The epoxy should seal the grain so the oil can't penetrate.

HD
 
Back when I worked in the oilfields, we'd patch holes in steel tanks with epoxy, usually down low where the nastiest stuff collected, and the epoxy always held fine, so long as it was properly applied. I doubt soaking in linseed oil would cause epoxy on a ram rod to loosen its grip, it's not nearly as nasty as the stuff on the bottom of an oil tank.
 
I am still trying to come up with a good reason for soakin it in linseed oil at all ? If it is a good grained rod all you need to do it epoxy & pin the ends on, put 2-3 coats of Permalyn or True-Oil for a sealer on it & forget it. Lightly steel wool it should it be too glossy or as it is drying rub it with your fingers lightly to take the gloss off. Soaking it in anything is not going to make it last any longer or work any better.
 
I used to soak the ram rods in kersosine or linseed oil but gave it up and have not really seen any difference in rammer wear, like stated above a good rod is a good rod no amount of anything is going to fix one with a bad grain.Some swear by it but I can see no advantage. I don't know if this goes to a recorded period practice or is a more contemporary thing.
 
:v I think the epoxy idea first, followed by pinning is a good choice---I would also suggest that you use an 30-60 minute epoxy---which is waterproof as well---that should do 'er for good. :thumbsup:
 
Folks should remember, the longer it takes for a epoxy to set up. the stronger it is.
Put another way, the epoxies that take 3-8 hours to cure are much stronger than the epoxies that take 10 minutes to an hour to cure.

That said, the surfaces that are being epoxied must be absolutely clean. No dust, no waxes, no oils may be present when the stuff is applied or the joint will be weak or non-existent.

If the epoxy is cured and then the joint is subjected to enough oil to fully penetrate the woods fibers I believe that most of the actual bonding will be greatly reduced.
The presence of the epoxy will continue to serve as a mechanical retention feature due to the unevenness of the woods surfaces but the total strength of the joint will be deminished.

If it were me, I wouldn't subject to wood to a deep soaking in any oil.
 
Belt and suspenders....I can't see the reason to glue and pin a tip to a ramrod. A pin works just fine.
 
I don't use Permalyn or True-Oil. When you leave that tip down the bore, you'll give some more thought to the epoxy. It's the only way to get a perfect fit.
 
Mark Lewis said:
When you leave that tip down the bore, you'll give some more thought to the epoxy. It's the only way to get a perfect fit.

I'm unclear as to what you mean. Please explain.
 
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