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Dawn and fairly warm water fairly tight fitting t-shirt patches on a jag.... Same way I've always cleaned them.... Doeant matter what I use to stop rust either.... Rusts with hopped 9 rem oil wd40 I've even tried other stuff like olive oil even though I know that's not its purpose and it really doesn't seem to matter... Ive tried adding Windex into the mix and that doesn't help.... However if I run a couple patches through and then scrub it with 0000 steel wool a couple times it rusts much less sometimes none.... Its not a big deal as long as I make sure its good the next day just a pita
 
CapPopper said:
Dawn and fairly warm water fairly tight fitting t-shirt patches on a jag.... Same way I've always cleaned them.... Doeant matter what I use to stop rust either.... Rusts with hopped 9 rem oil wd40 I've even tried other stuff like olive oil even though I know that's not its purpose and it really doesn't seem to matter... Ive tried adding Windex into the mix and that doesn't help.... However if I run a couple patches through and then scrub it with 0000 steel wool a couple times it rusts much less sometimes none.... Its not a big deal as long as I make sure its good the next day just a pita

Well, there's a lot to say about that...
so I'll just tell you what I don't do

I don't use Dawn
I don't use municipal water or water from a water heater.
I don't use Hoppe's #9, Rem oil, WD-40 or olive oil as a rust preventative...

I don't use Windex.

And I would never ever use steel wool as part of my regular cleaning method.

I also don't have any problems....

How exactly do you clean your gun? (procedure)
 
Does this happen when using real black powder too?

When I first started shooting muzzleloaders it was all pyrodex...found it way more corrosive than black powder.
You just have a barrel that's used and needy...

a borescope would answer your question.
 
Never shot real black in this gun... I don't really have an established method cause nothing seems to really do the job with this gun.... My old gun was a little dawn and warm water scrub it.. Change water clean a little more rinse it out dry over heat and a little wd40 and I never had any issue... This gun does have some minor pitting in it but as a free gun I cannot complain... What should I try I only did steel wool once to try to clean the bore up a bit but it only helped for that cleaning didn't make the next one easier
 
You might want to try some Birchwood Casey Barricade (new name for Sheath) after drying the bore. I've had good luck with that in/on all my guns. Won't hurt finishes, either.

I'm not sure why municipal water won't work as well as, say, distilled? Aside from trace minerals and chlorine, it shouldn't affect anything, although I doubt the flouride will prevent cavities. :wink: And why is hot water bad? What is "flash rust"? I've seen where guys have run cap and ball revolver through the dishwasher and that gets pretty hot.
 
I keep meaning to order barricade since I can't find any within 30 miles of my house.... Which I find hard to believe. Though I dont think my rust preventative is the problem since if I have trouble and clean it again it won't rust after that its just the devil to get it clean the first time.
 
RedFeather said:
I'm not sure why municipal water won't work as well as, say, distilled? Aside from trace minerals and chlorine, it shouldn't affect anything, although I doubt the flouride will prevent cavities. :wink: And why is hot water bad? What is "flash rust"? I've seen where guys have run cap and ball revolver through the dishwasher and that gets pretty hot.

All water is not the same. Neither are Dawn and automatic dishwashing detergent.

Temperature increases the solubility of salts in water but also increases chemical reactions.

A rusty pitted barrel needs to be passivized or it will never stop rusting.

Rust preventatives protect steel from oxygen....There is far more oxygen in water than there is in the air.

Time is your enemy, every step along the way.
 
True, my old can of Sheath is brown, as is Hoppes #9. Oil certainly is.

While I know money is tight, if you're ordering any shooting supplies from Midway, etc, it might be good to add a can of Barricade. I don't know if they still offer it in a can vs aerosol, but all you really need is a few drops on a patch to wipe things down.
 
IMO, there is nothing wrong with using Dawn.
It is just a dish washing detergent that will help to cut the grease/oil that was left in the bore from your shooting patches.

Your faucet water might be high in iron. It is in a lot of places.

If the water does contain iron it will leave a light coating of rust behind when it dries.

The fact that your rust seems to be forming a day or so after the barrel is cleaned tells me your protective oil isn't doing the job.

Hoppe's #9 and IMO, #9 Blackpowder solvent are not made to prevent rust (despite what the ad's say).

WD40 is a water displacement designed to force water out of tight fitting places.
It is not a rust preventative.

As was mentioned, one of the best rust prevention oils is Birchwood Casey Barricade.
It drys forming a coating that prevents oxygen from getting to the steel under it.

If you can't get it you might try using a automatic transmission fluid.

It will protect the bore but if you use it, you should wipe the bore with a cleaning patch soaked in denatured alcohol before you load and shoot your rifle.

Denatured alcohol contains very little water and is strong enough to cut thru oil's.
Regular rubbing alcohol doesn't work as well but it's better than nothing.
 
I'm curious how Ballistol stands in this regard as I have a slightly abused barrel (the one night I left it with Pyrodex consumption) and have used nothing but Ballistol and got the orange-like swans back the next day or three after a good cleaning.

I have to also say that after a period of time that stopped. I check all of my guns oiled with Ballistol periodically and they've all come out just fine.
 
I have access to 99% isopropyl there's not much it won't remove... But im sure its not the oil turning colors since on an occasion or 2 I could see the rust... If its going to rust it will be noticeable without running a patch through it bybthe time I get home from work the next night... Like I said its coated with rem oil right now and its not rusting so I can't see it being the oil.... Just seems like I always have to clean it twice to keep it from rusting and I clean the carp out of it until my patches are all but perfectly snow white and I still have to clean it again... Never had that problem with the other 50 I owned so I dont understand what's wrong
 
Well, worst comes to worst, after the bore has dried you could work a little dab of RIG into a patch and swab the bore before storing. If that doesn't do it, I doubt anything will. Of course, I'd swab it out with alcohol or such before loading.
 
Lol Clyde other 50 cal.... Guess that's partly on me I've delt with several if you count teaching people how to use and clean them and never had any issue getting a gun clean before
 
Water gets trapped in the pitting, creates rust......Do not let it air dry....Use ethanol instead, (100%), AKA denatured alcohol or HEET in the yellow bottle...Immediately following cleaning..

Diederot's 1771 encyclopedia on chemistry states that "Spirit of wine" (ethanol) has a greater affinity for water and acids than oil, or salt.
He also states that when mixed with acids (and he goes on to reference sulfuric acid) they lose much of the acidity.
 
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