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Pistol bullets in a muzzleloader?

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1BadDart

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I asked this in the "everything .40 caliber" thread but didn't get any responses, so I'll ask again. Has anyone ever shot hollow base pistol bullets in a .40 caliber rifle? I have a bunch of Berrys hollow base, .40 caliber (.401") copper washed lead bullets that I load for my (modern) pistols.
 
I have had good success with a few .40 bullets in my 1/48 twist flintlock. I have to shoot pretty stout loads to get good accuracy, about 70gr 3f. I bet it would give acceptable results with the right charge. Only 1 way to find out
 
I have had good success with a few .40 bullets in my 1/48 twist flintlock. I have to shoot pretty stout loads to get good accuracy, about 70gr 3f. I bet it would give acceptable results with the right charge. Only 1 way to find out
That's what I'm thinking, thanks.
 
Well, never shot hollow-base pistol bullets in a .40, but I HAVE shot sabotted .40 caliber pistol bullets in a T/C .45 caliber Hawken rifle. My best load is seven grains of 3f Old Eynsford topped by 70 grains of Triple 7. I've used both JHP and LSWC bullets to good effect on milk jugs. I would think that a similar load should work well for you. I gotta ask though; why hollow base bullets? Other than for the purpose of historical accuracy with some guns, I can see no real advantage in them. Minnie balls worked, but they eventually got almost abandoned over the decades since the Civil War.
 
Where planning on shooting them flat or hollow forward? Shooting 148gr hollow base wad cutters in reverse was the cat's meow about 50 years ago.
 
Well, never shot hollow-base pistol bullets in a .40, but I HAVE shot sabotted .40 caliber pistol bullets in a T/C .45 caliber Hawken rifle. My best load is seven grains of 3f Old Eynsford topped by 70 grains of Triple 7. I've used both JHP and LSWC bullets to good effect on milk jugs. I would think that a similar load should work well for you. I gotta ask though; why hollow base bullets? Other than for the purpose of historical accuracy with some guns, I can see no real advantage in them. Minnie balls worked, but they eventually got almost abandoned over the decades since the Civil War.
It's what I have.
 
Where planning on shooting them flat or hollow forward? Shooting 148gr hollow base wad cutters in reverse was the cat's meow about 50 years ago.
Flat point forward. I have a Colt bullseye pistol I shoot HBWC's in and have considered loading them backwards for my CC airweight, not sure about penetration through clothing though.
 
I believe Dixie Gun Works sold a 40 cal bullet as one of their hair straightener bullet molds.

Most 40 caliber rifles will have a patched ball rate of twist. It's time to measure land to land diameter and groove diameter. You will need a bullet properly sized to the bore, and it should be paper patched. Perhaps an unmentionable 38-40 bullet (0.401 diameter) will work. In any event, you need to do the measurements first to establish what is needed.
 
I believe Dixie Gun Works sold a 40 cal bullet as one of their hair straightener bullet molds.

Most 40 caliber rifles will have a patched ball rate of twist. It's time to measure land to land diameter and groove diameter. You will need a bullet properly sized to the bore, and it should be paper patched. Perhaps an unmentionable 38-40 bullet (0.401 diameter) will work. In any event, you need to do the measurements first to establish what is needed.
If you want to try some Laser Cast 180 grain .40 caliber bullets, PM me and I'll send you a handful of 'em.
 
Flat point forward. I have a Colt bullseye pistol I shoot HBWC's in and have considered loading them backwards for my CC airweight, not sure about penetration through clothing though.
With just about any pistol with a 2-inch barrel that's a problem. I've loaded a bunch of HBWC's over the years some in reverse. They seem to shoot fine but I had no way to check penetration.
 
I have shot .32 caliber Hornady HBWC's in my .32. The bullet was undersize so I have to paper patch the bullet with thin onion skin paper (cigarette papers) to get aproper fit. Accuracy was so-so. I'll try it with my Crockett .32 to see how it does.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
If you want to get a feel for your success before you spend time and powder, then this will get you a good start:


https://www.ssusa.org/content/how-to-calculate-rifling-twist-rates-for-stabilizing-bullets/Quote: "The shortcoming of Greenhill’s formula is that the professor developed it for elliptical (football-shaped) subsonic lead projectiles (he was more into rifled cannons). Though it applies surprisingly well for rifle bullets with muzzle velocities up to about 2,800 fps"

I realize greenhill's formula has been improved upon, but it will get you close enough to see if there is a prayer of working
 
If you want to get a feel for your success before you spend time and powder, then this will get you a good start:


https://www.ssusa.org/content/how-to-calculate-rifling-twist-rates-for-stabilizing-bullets/Quote: "The shortcoming of Greenhill’s formula is that the professor developed it for elliptical (football-shaped) subsonic lead projectiles (he was more into rifled cannons). Though it applies surprisingly well for rifle bullets with muzzle velocities up to about 2,800 fps"

I realize greenhill's formula has been improved upon, but it will get you close enough to see if there is a prayer of working
Using the formula in the link I need a 1-39" twist, my rifle is 1-48". I'll probably still try it just for fun.

Note: Regarding the link, you'd think that someone in the NRA would know that the 223 Remington they used as an example uses a .224" bullet not a .244".
 
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