Numrich 45 cal Swivel Breech Rifle

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nit wit

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I picked one up today. Of course the percussion lock does not work.( they were weak when they did). Has anyone used a back action lock for a conversion. Numrich probably doesn't have a spring, not thrilled about weak springs any way. Has anyone made a stronger spring, or some oyher conversion.
Thanks
Nit Wit
 

Grimord

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As you said the springs are very weak on the original guns. The main spring is held in place by a tack welded 'V" on the inside of the plate that is also susceptible to breaking off. (don't ask how I know this) I had to drill and tap two 6X48 cut off screws into the back side of the plate for a new anchor point. I was able to get a spring from Dixie that was a close match and only required some filing to get it to work right. Never took a liking to the gun. It required an odd sized ball, and an odd sized nipple (TOW has them). Never go acceptable accuracy out of it, and wound up selling it for a .32 Pedersoli Pennsylvania gun. Still don't regret it. Hope you have better luck with yours.
 

griffiga

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I picked one up today. Of course the percussion lock does not work.( they were weak when they did). Has anyone used a back action lock for a conversion. Numrich probably doesn't have a spring, not thrilled about weak springs any way. Has anyone made a stronger spring, or some oyher conversion.
Thanks
Nit Wit
Is the mainspring in the lock? Is it broken? If not, I gimmied one for my brother that was weak by placing a thin strip or two of tin (coke can) in the folds of the mainspring to give it more resistance. Be careful not to go to much or you could break the spring if it's not already.
 

nit wit

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Thinking about a back action lock conversion.
NW
 
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Do check numeric, a few days ago when replying to another thread with one of these rifles I done a quick search on numerichs site they had some parts very limited but a few, not sure about lock springs.
 

ohio ramrod

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I have one that is very accurate. But the lock is a pain. On mine the sear and main spring are one spring! one end for the sear and one end for the cock. Which makes for a "hard "trigger pull. When I first got it (1971) I did not mind the hard trigger pull, but after shooting my target rifle with set triggers I find the hard trigger pull difficult to keep on target.Getting older doesn't help!.
 

okawbow

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I got one in pieces without the lock, a week ago,but it came with an L&R back action lock. I cut out the old lock inlet and replaced the wood with matching walnut. I had to cut off some of the lock plate to get the hammer in the right place. I also had to file the trigger so the new sear had clearance and the lock would hold half and full cock. I polished all the working lock parts and everything works smooth and the trigger pull is just right. Haven’t shot it yet, but the hammer hits the nipples square and plenty hard.

Should be a dandy deer rifle. Handy and weighs 8#.
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wb78963

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I have one that is very accurate. But the lock is a pain. On mine the sear and main spring are one spring! one end for the sear and one end for the cock. Which makes for a "hard "trigger pull. When I first got it (1971) I did not mind the hard trigger pull, but after shooting my target rifle with set triggers I find the hard trigger pull difficult to keep on target.Getting older doesn't help!.
they stole that trigger/lock spring from Sharps. Guys if you are going to steal and idea, steal a good one that combination spring thing is a loser.
IMHO
Bunk
 
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