noob - what do i need, what is a waste of $ ?

[new2bp]

Subject kinda says it all. Unexpectedly became a BP owner/shooter this weekend.... so I'm doing my pre-purchase research post-purchase instead.

Got a Uberti made Remington 1858 New Army clone. Came with some expendables - wads, balls, caps, and a little powder.

What I am wondering about is tools and accessories needed for shooting and maintenence.

Pistol also came with :
powder flask/measure that throws 40gr equiv.
nipple wrench
generic mop brush etc

I am looking for a better way to measure powder charges so I can shoot whatever charge levels I like. Think I am just going to make and calibrate some brass scoops to solve this one unless there is some sort of supertool you would recommend.

I would also like a easier way to cap the nipples. Even my smaller hands have a hard time and my son cant manage it at all his hands are so big. But all of the capping tools I see are labeled as "holds x no11 caps" or "x 209 primers". Will the #11 tool work w #10 caps?

Finally other than tyical pistol cleaning tools and a single strand from a cat5 cable (just right for flash hole in nipple) are there any maintenence tools I need?

 

[Michiganmuzzy]

There are a lot of different adjustable powder measures. I like the brass ones. Got mine at Dunhams.

I use the TC #11 capper with #10s to cap my Pietta '58 and #11s in my Ruger Old Army. I had to squeeze down the tip a tiny bit but it works great.


As for cleaning i started using a little handheld steamer to clean all my BP guns. $30 on Amazon, iirc.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Subject kinda says it all. Unexpectedly became a BP owner/shooter this weekend.... so I'm doing my pre-purchase research post-purchase instead.

Got a Uberti made Remington 1858 New Army clone. Came with some expendables - wads, balls, caps, and a little powder.

What I am wondering about is tools and accessories needed for shooting and maintenence.

Pistol also came with :
powder flask/measure that throws 40gr equiv.
nipple wrench
generic mop brush etc

I am looking for a better way to measure powder charges so I can shoot whatever charge levels I like. Think I am just going to make and calibrate some brass scoops to solve this one unless there is some sort of supertool you would recommend.

I would also like a easier way to cap the nipples. Even my smaller hands have a hard time and my son cant manage it at all his hands are so big. But all of the capping tools I see are labeled as "holds x no11 caps" or "x 209 primers". Will the #11 tool work w #10 caps?

Finally other than tyical pistol cleaning tools and a single strand from a cat5 cable (just right for flash hole in nipple) are there any maintenence tools I need?

SO ..., you should know that black powder shooting is a LOT like golf, but usually cheaper. Like golf in that there is ALWAYS a new gadget to get even though the tech pretty much ended prior to 1900, and they seemed to keep the firearms in good working order prior to that date. AND like golf, the gadget is pretty much unneeded except for the guy who is marketing it..., he needs to sell it.....(imho)

You got advice on a completely adjustable measure, and a capper.

You've got the nipple wrench already.

You may want to buy a good, basic set of "gun screw" drivers, as the screws in the repro have slots a tad different than a standard screw. An old toothbrush is good for the times when you need to take the whole gun apart and scrub out crud (like maybe once a year).

I use a magnetic parts holder, ESPECIALLY around revolvers. I have a tiny .31 copy of a Remington so them parts is small, and something like the magnetic parts tray keeps them from wandering off when I'm cleaning. Blue is good for your eyes to see the part on the tray.
Magnetic Parts Tray [Blue]

LD

 

[Eterry]

Harbor freight has the magnetic trays for cheap.
Most don't recommend loading from the flask, so don't. A stray spark can create a grenade.

Lee used to sell a set of plastic dippers and a slide chart for volumes of black powder.
Or just get the standard brass measurer like most of us use.

Welcome to the Addiction.

 

[Woody Morgan]

Subject kinda says it all. Unexpectedly became a BP owner/shooter this weekend.... so I'm doing my pre-purchase research post-purchase instead.

Got a Uberti made Remington 1858 New Army clone. Came with some expendables - wads, balls, caps, and a little powder.

What I am wondering about is tools and accessories needed for shooting and maintenence.

Pistol also came with :
powder flask/measure that throws 40gr equiv.
nipple wrench
generic mop brush etc

I am looking for a better way to measure powder charges so I can shoot whatever charge levels I like. Think I am just going to make and calibrate some brass scoops to solve this one unless there is some sort of supertool you would recommend.

I would also like a easier way to cap the nipples. Even my smaller hands have a hard time and my son cant manage it at all his hands are so big. But all of the capping tools I see are labeled as "holds x no11 caps" or "x 209 primers". Will the #11 tool work w #10 caps?

Finally other than tyical pistol cleaning tools and a single strand from a cat5 cable (just right for flash hole in nipple) are there any maintenence tools I need?

Sounds like you're set with what you already have and what the members suggested.

Go shoot! And welcome!

wm

 

[Grenadier1758]

40 grains of powder (volume) is more powder than is necessary. 25 grains (volume) is a better choice for enjoyable shooting. Many cap chargers are too big for easy capping of the nipple. A filler of Cream of Wheat will take care of any excess space in the chamber.

 

[Stumpkiller]

One of the handiest things I made for BP revolver shooting was too take a 9mm cartridge case and silver solder a little coat-hanger wire (laquer removed) around the rim. Make a dipper that holds 18 gr FFFg - perfect for .36 and is thin and easy to pour into the cylinder.

.38 Spl - 25.5 gr

.357 - 28 gr

A 44 Mag holds 40 gr.

 

[new2bp]

Sounds like you're set with what you already have and what the members suggested.

Go shoot! And welcome!

wm

Yup, hit the grocery store for some Crisco and hit the range after work yesterday and put two cylinders through it.

40 grains of powder (volume) is more powder than is necessary. 25 grains (volume) is a better choice for enjoyable shooting. Many cap chargers are too big for easy capping of the nipple. A filler of Cream of Wheat will take care of any excess space in the chamber.

Yeah, I need to figure out my individual cylinder volume and how far the loading ram will drive the ball to figure out a minimal load without using extra filler. That said, 40gr didn't have much recoil. But if 20-25gr will work for killing paper and the occasional steel plate then I can get twice as much fun per pound...

One of the handiest things I made for BP revolver shooting was too take a 9mm cartridge case and silver solder a little coat-hanger wire (laquer removed) around the rim. Make a dipper that holds 18 gr FFFg - perfect for .36 and is thin and easy to pour into the cylinder.

.38 Spl - 25.5 gr

.357 - 28 gr

A 44 Mag holds 40 gr.

Yup I found a similar chart with quite a few other casings listed somewhere... search results and forums tend to blend in my memory, so I don't recall where. But a 30 carbine case holds 20gr

Planning on hitting the chemistry department up at work for some small volume measuring tools - eyeballing it I'm thinking 40gr is going to work out to just a couple of ccs. Need to get a new scale pan from them for my smokeless stuff too Once I can confirm the volume of 40gr then after that it is simple math and comparing known case sizes or some measurements and more math

 

[Grenadier1758]

@new2bp

For what its worth, here's an approximation based on the density of GOEX 2fg black powder being 235 grains per cubic inch in a powder measure with a inside diameter of 29/64".

Grains	12​	15​	20​	25​	30​	35​	40​	45​	50​	55​
Depth	0.316656​	0.39582​	0.52776​	0.6597​	0.79164​	0.923579​	1.055519​	1.187459​	1.319399​	1.451339​
Volume in^3	0.051064​	0.06383​	0.085106​	0.106383​	0.12766​	0.148936​	0.170213​	0.191489​	0.212766​	0.234043​
Volume in CC	0.836786​	1.045983​	1.394644​	1.743305​	2.091966​	2.440627​	2.789287​	3.137948​	3.486609​	3.83527​

 

[Eterry]

Yup, hit the grocery store for some Crisco and hit the range after work yesterday and put two cylinders through it.




Yeah, I need to figure out my individual cylinder volume and how far the loading ram will drive the ball to figure out a minimal load without using extra filler. That said, 40gr didn't have much recoil. But if 20-25gr will work for killing paper and the occasional steel plate then I can get twice as much fun per pound...



Yup I found a similar chart with quite a few other casings listed somewhere... search results and forums tend to blend in my memory, so I don't recall where. But a 30 carbine case holds 20gr

Planning on hitting the chemistry department up at work for some small volume measuring tools - eyeballing it I'm thinking 40gr is going to work out to just a couple of ccs. Need to get a new scale pan from them for my smokeless stuff too Once I can confirm the volume of 40gr then after that it is simple math and comparing known case sizes or some measurements and more math

The Lee powder dippers are in CCs. Then you use the slide chart to see which dipper to use for what charge you want. About 50 powders are listed, including Goex ffg and fffg.

I'm thinking that chart is online somewhere, a google search may find it.

I think the dippers are in one tenth CC measurements.

Good luck.

 

[Don Steele]

Welcome..!!!
It appears that you're well on your way as far as loading and shooting accessories. The one item I don't believe I saw mentioned so far is a LOADING STAND. You won't load your revolver at my gun club without one. Fortunately, for the new folks, we keep a couple at the range that have been donated by members. When a newly minted muzzleloading handgun shooter tries to load OFF the stand, at some point in the process...they wind up sweeping the other shooters with the muzzle of their LOADED handgun. Most of us take SEVERE exception to that. This is just one image I picked up off the 'net. There's a variety of styles and designs. Some are used with the cylinder still in the pistol, some require you to remove the cylinder for loading. The point is to keep the muzzle pointing UP throughout the loading process so that you're muzzle is not sweeping the other folks on the range.

 

[new2bp]

Welcome..!!!
It appears that you're well on your way as far as loading and shooting accessories. The one item I don't believe I saw mentioned so far is a LOADING STAND. You won't load your revolver at my gun club without one. Fortunately, for the new folks, we keep a couple at the range that have been donated by members. When a newly minted muzzleloading handgun shooter tries to load OFF the stand, at some point in the process...they wind up sweeping the other shooters with the muzzle of their LOADED handgun. Most of us take SEVERE exception to that. This is just one image I picked up off the 'net. There's a variety of styles and designs. Some are used with the cylinder still in the pistol, some require you to remove the cylinder for loading. The point is to keep the muzzle pointing UP throughout the loading process so that you're muzzle is not sweeping the other folks on the range.

Yeah, I seem to find the edge cases for the range rules at my local club.

"All actions should be open". Ok.... but me and a buddy are shooting this open bolt machine gun... which means an open bolt is "cocked and ready to fire", not locked safely back.

Since the guys in the pro shop had no answers for me regarding BP specific safety rules I plan on getting with the group that shoots CASS once/month and asking their acting RSOs about their rules.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Since the guys in the pro shop had no answers for me regarding BP specific safety rules I plan on getting with the group that shoots CASS once/month and asking their acting RSOs about their rules.

Well in CAS you only load five, not all six chambers. You only load and cap at the "loading table", lowering your revolver hammer onto the empty chamber, and then you holster before turning around, and coming to the line to start the portion of the event where you are the next shooter.

Some ranges don't allow you to holster as drawing from the holster they think may lead to rounds into your leg, the top of the shooting bench, or at various points on the ground between you and the target.

I have a set of .44 Brass Frame, "Confederate Navy" revolvers, Colt style. So I simply removed one nipple from one chamber in each of my cylinders, and that way I'd always know where the empty chamber was located. But that was for competitions, not for hobby use.

LD

 

[new2bp]

Well in CAS you only load five, not all six chambers. You only load and cap at the "loading table", lowering your revolver hammer onto the empty chamber, and then you holster before turning around, and coming to the line to start the portion of the event where you are the next shooter.

Some ranges don't allow you to holster as drawing from the holster they think may lead to rounds into your leg, the top of the shooting bench, or at various points on the ground between you and the target.

I have a set of .44 Brass Frame, "Confederate Navy" revolvers, Colt style. So I simply removed one nipple from one chamber in each of my cylinders, and that way I'd always know where the empty chamber was located. But that was for competitions, not for hobby use.

LD

The range I use is pretty cool. There are private members-only bays set up with steel, etc. and there are also a few bays designated for drawing and firing etc.

I'm more curious as to what I should do for example if someone calls a cold range for emergency and I've just finished loading my cylinder, etc.

 

[Michiganmuzzy]

The range I use is pretty cool. There are private members-only bays set up with steel, etc. and there are also a few bays designated for drawing and firing etc.

I'm more curious as to what I should do for example if someone calls a cold range for emergency and I've just finished loading my cylinder, etc.

Decapping all your cylinders is all that it takes to be considered unloaded. I will also remove the cylinder from my '58 as well. That makes the RO feel a bit better.

 

[11th corps]

I've used Crisco to seal the chamber of my ROA since the 1970's.
Remember to clean your pistol after shooting. Don't put it away and plan to get around to it "some time".
If you can't find real BP-in my area gun shops just don't sell it-a synthetic like 777 works. It usually can be found on the shelf of gun stores or sporting good stores. Pandemic excepted.
Good luck and good shooting.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You will find a cylinder loading press to be worthwhile. Makes loading a lot easier and more consistent, especially when loading filler and wads.

Cylinder Loader | Powder, Inc. | Master Distributor of Goex, Swiss and Schuetzen (powderinc.com)

 

[Michiganmuzzy]

I like the cylinder loading presses, too. I dont have to worry about bending the loading lever on the gun.

 

[new2bp]

I've used Crisco to seal the chamber of my ROA since the 1970's.
Remember to clean your pistol after shooting. Don't put it away and plan to get around to it "some time".
If you can't find real BP-in my area gun shops just don't sell it-a synthetic like 777 works. It usually can be found on the shelf of gun stores or sporting good stores. Pandemic excepted.
Good luck and good shooting.

Yeah, I googled "loading 1858" and found the geojon pages and followed his thoughts on it. Cleaned up a few hours later, used veg oil, appropriate sized mops and jags etc. Messy and took a while to get it all but not a lot of work effort as far as scrubbing etc.

You will find a cylinder loading press to be worthwhile. Makes loading a lot easier and more consistent, especially when loading filler and wads.

Cylinder Loader | Powder, Inc. | Master Distributor of Goex, Swiss and Schuetzen (powderinc.com)

Second Third mention of that, once for safety and once for utility. On the list to buy.

 

[BullRunBear]

All my suggestions have been posted already. The only thing I can add is pipe cleaners. I use them to clean the inside of the nipples and to apply lube to the nipple threads after cleaning. They are handy for getting into hard to reach spots.

I use a loading stand for ease and safety. Made it myself from some scrap wood and an old hinge that lets it fold flat. Looks like manure but it has worked for over thirty years.

Jeff