Elkeater
45 Cal.
A T/C NE. Gonna rub the lock parts for a better pull. Suggestions please for the proper tool and technique.
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New stiff trigger treatment?
- Thread starter Elkeater
- Start date
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There ain't one.
The NE is/has the T/C single trigger with a yoked/forked cam that engages the sear arm.
It was designed to be a hunting trigger with a large trigger guard and direct pressure to the sear.
There is really no adjustment or tuning then to be sure it is clean of build-up or gunk and has fresh lubrication.
You can knock the pins out and polish the sides of the trigger cam itself,, but that trigger has plenty of room to move.
The NE is/has the T/C single trigger with a yoked/forked cam that engages the sear arm.
It was designed to be a hunting trigger with a large trigger guard and direct pressure to the sear.
There is really no adjustment or tuning then to be sure it is clean of build-up or gunk and has fresh lubrication.
You can knock the pins out and polish the sides of the trigger cam itself,, but that trigger has plenty of room to move.
Elkeater
45 Cal.
necchi said:
Thanks JohnT
I like the trigger pull on my well used NE. When I picked up the closet, neglected NE and felt the stiff almost gritty trigger pull I was motivated to do something.
So I'll get into the lock and do some polishing. I have JB bore cleaning compound.
Pete G
76 Cal.
You can polish the engagement surfaces; will help some. Also take a hard look at the sear return spring. It might be able to be reduced a little bit.
Elkeater
45 Cal.
Thanks Pete
Would you nip off a little bit of the spring?
Would you nip off a little bit of the spring?
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Do not cut the sear spring off, just thin it. I go slow and just thin the leg touching the sear. Make sure you don't overdo, as you want to maintain safety of the lock staying in the half and full cock positions.
Flintlocklar
:wink:
TC locks are pretty sloppy and you may not be able to create a great trigger.
I would replace the sear spring with one that uses thinner wire. Clipping the existing spring is not so good, you want a constant rate spring.
TC put the spring too far from the pivot, that causes too much leverage and rubbing. Polish the end of the detent and the sear arm where they rub too.
IF the sear rubs anywhere except at the pivot fix that by carefully removing material from the side of the sear arm.
Be extremely careful with "Gonna rub the lock parts for a better pull".
Only polish engaging surfaces with a stone, diamond lap or backed abrasive paper. Maintain all angles as designed. Keep everything flat, as designed. Do not ever reduce sear engagement depths. Never-ever....ever use a dremil tool or file for any of this.
You could use some #2000 sandpaper to refine the sear engaging surface. Back the paper with a dead flat smooth surface, like sheet glass. Move the sear in even deliberate stokes. Do not rock it, keep it dead flat and as designed. Only remove tool marks from the engaging surface, then stop.
Leave the tumber alone.
I would not put JB or other abrasive pastes on the surfaces then work them. That just rounds things and accelerates wear.
I you mess any of this up you will create an unsafe rife. IF you have any doubts leave it alone.
I would replace the sear spring with one that uses thinner wire. Clipping the existing spring is not so good, you want a constant rate spring.
TC put the spring too far from the pivot, that causes too much leverage and rubbing. Polish the end of the detent and the sear arm where they rub too.
IF the sear rubs anywhere except at the pivot fix that by carefully removing material from the side of the sear arm.
Be extremely careful with "Gonna rub the lock parts for a better pull".
Only polish engaging surfaces with a stone, diamond lap or backed abrasive paper. Maintain all angles as designed. Keep everything flat, as designed. Do not ever reduce sear engagement depths. Never-ever....ever use a dremil tool or file for any of this.
You could use some #2000 sandpaper to refine the sear engaging surface. Back the paper with a dead flat smooth surface, like sheet glass. Move the sear in even deliberate stokes. Do not rock it, keep it dead flat and as designed. Only remove tool marks from the engaging surface, then stop.
Leave the tumber alone.
I would not put JB or other abrasive pastes on the surfaces then work them. That just rounds things and accelerates wear.
I you mess any of this up you will create an unsafe rife. IF you have any doubts leave it alone.
Elkeater
45 Cal.
Wow, thanks to everyone. Love this place.
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Relocating the trigger pivot point has helped me with 2 different single trigger guns. One was a newbie built custom and the other was a miroku jukar in 45 percussion.
IF you can get your hands on the gunsmith of grenville county, he goes into great detail about tuning a lock and building a gun with good trigger geometry.
Davis makes a replacement trigger for a T/C set trigger. Not sure if the Thompson center new Englander is a drop in or not.
IS the gun percussion or flintlock. IF it's flintlock, just changing the lock to a L&R alone will make it much better.
IF you can get your hands on the gunsmith of grenville county, he goes into great detail about tuning a lock and building a gun with good trigger geometry.
Davis makes a replacement trigger for a T/C set trigger. Not sure if the Thompson center new Englander is a drop in or not.
IS the gun percussion or flintlock. IF it's flintlock, just changing the lock to a L&R alone will make it much better.
Elkeater
45 Cal.
My goal is to skip the break-in by shootin method. To have the same feel as my other stock cap lock .54.
It will be used to introduce these rifles to others and as a camp gun.
It will be used to introduce these rifles to others and as a camp gun.
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I forgot to mention another thing about the davis trigger. It is a double set trigger, but just using the front trigger alone like a signle trigger witout setting it. It feels a bunch better than setting the set trigger on a stock T/C double set trigger.
I highly prefer single trigger to set ones. As said, the davis will be a nicer trigger even if you don't use the set feature.
Both modern and traditional arms, I have seen day and night results on trigger from a good cleaning, inspection, and regreasing/oiling. When I do, I may just lightly touch up something with some fine wet/dry paper and a few drops of #2 heating oil to wash out the fine bits. But, it has to look bad to me first. Also, I have seen plenty of grit, dity, and machining chips in new firearms over the years.
Historically, I have used either hopes #9 or mobil 1 synthetic grease on moving parts. Sometimes when hopes doesn't do it, I have used a few drops of synthetic gear oil.
I highly prefer single trigger to set ones. As said, the davis will be a nicer trigger even if you don't use the set feature.
Both modern and traditional arms, I have seen day and night results on trigger from a good cleaning, inspection, and regreasing/oiling. When I do, I may just lightly touch up something with some fine wet/dry paper and a few drops of #2 heating oil to wash out the fine bits. But, it has to look bad to me first. Also, I have seen plenty of grit, dity, and machining chips in new firearms over the years.
Historically, I have used either hopes #9 or mobil 1 synthetic grease on moving parts. Sometimes when hopes doesn't do it, I have used a few drops of synthetic gear oil.
