New barrel for Renegade

[Elkeater]

I purchased a barrel that was bored out by Mr Hoyt, 58 cal. Did a little shaving to channel. No luck finding an accurate load. Thinking I need to float barrel. Suggestions please.

 

[necchi]

Uhm,, "floating a barrel" is better suited to CF rifles. It's almost the opposite with these traditional ML's.
The tang and first 4-6" of the barrel need to be bedded snug to the stock to prevent any shifting. The tang/barrel fit needs to be tight.
T/C did fit the tang/barrel with each rifle as it was made, usually by adjusting the "hook" of the barrel breech. But today with them being out of production and all the swapping and mixing of parts we do,, that factory fit is lost.
The best thing to do with T/C and/or Lyman hook breech rifles is to remove the tang from the stock, then observe how well it fit's to the barrel breech plug.
The face of the tang needs to fit with no gap to the rear face of the plug.
Adjustments can be made to the hook or tang with a file if needed.
An issue I have seen several times with changing barrels or in the case of aftermarket GM barrels for these rifles is the barrel hook being too long,, it will actually hit the stock wood behind the tang when installed and won't mate with the face of the tang.
Two fixes available;
1. File the back of the hook so it mates freely to the tang
2. Remove a little wood (inlet) an area under/behind the tang so the barrel breach fit's flush and free.

After those adjustments are made, it may be necessary to adjust the hammer cup to hit the nipple properly.
It's all part of the game with this mix-n-match thing we have to do today.
Good luck,,

 

[BS]

I purchased a barrel that was bored out by Mr Hoyt, 58 cal. Did a little shaving to channel. No luck finding an accurate load. Thinking I need to float barrel. Suggestions please.

Tell us about your 'no luck'.

Bore size, twist, powder and patches, what do you have pictures of?

 

[bubba.50]

My 54cal we can't talk about was advertised as 'free-floated for accuracy'. Couldn't hit a bull in the butt. A few strips of masking tape in the end of the barrel channel just til it made solid contact & it'd put'em in the same hole at 100 yards.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Did you give the barrel rifling a good scrubbing with steel wool or a green scotch bright patch to "break it in"? Most new barrels need a polishing inside to get rid of any burrs before they will reach optimum accuracy.

 

[Grimord]

I have 2 T/c barrels that I had Mr. Hoyt bore out to .58 with his gain twist rifling (1:60), one in flint and one percussion. I have found that the best accuracy seems to come with heavier loads (100+ grains 2f). The percussion barrel shoots it's best groups with 120 grains of 2f, b ut it also shoots to POI at 35 yards with 50 grains of 3f. I'm still working with the flint barrel, but so far 100 grains of 2f is producing 2" groups at 75 yards, but I think it can do better but it is still good for deer hunting.
Do as Eric said in one of the above posts. Scrub the barrel with scotch brite to remove any left over machining burrs.

 

[longcruise]

Start with examining your fired patches. They may tell a story.

 

[SDSmlf]

I purchased a barrel that was bored out by Mr Hoyt, 58 cal. Did a little shaving to channel. No luck finding an accurate load. Thinking I need to float barrel. Suggestions please.

I have a couple barrels bored out my Mr. Hoyt to 58 caliber with 1-60 radius rifling. All are very accurate (basically a ragged hole at 50 yards), but require a thicker patch than most want to use. I am using 10oz canvas that is .022” nominal, and 0165” compressed, at least the way I measure it. As previously suggested, look at your patches, and bypass the thought of ‘floating’ your barrel.

 

[Elkeater]

I'm using .570 ball with denim witch is a little thicker than the .02 store bought. ff powder; 95, 100, 110 and 118 grain charges. At 80 yards the best was a 6" group from a solid rest.

I scrubbed with JB paste to start with. I'm always checking patches, with the denim there is no cutting any longer. I have about 70 rounds thru it. I shaved a little more on the channel, will see if that helps next time at range. I do have the stock the barrel came with, I could change the tangs. I'll play a little more before I resort to that.

It has to beat out a 54 New Englander for backup on elk hunt. September is coming, I can hear it.

 

[NorthFork]

I REALLY don't think free floating anything resembling a traditional muzzleloader will work. Heck most of the HC/PC longrifles NEED the barrel to support the stock. Maybe a convo with Mr. Hoyt is in order.

 

[BS]

I REALLY don't think free floating anything resembling a traditional muzzleloader will work. Heck most of the HC/PC longrifles NEED the barrel to support the stock. Maybe a convo with Mr. Hoyt is in order.

Listen to NorthFork!!!!!!
Free floating is wrong!
The breech needs to squarely fit into the stock.
The stock needs to tightly fit the barrel.
Try a different patch lube.

 

[Elkeater]

I needed to scrap on the barrel channel, pin had to much pressure on it.

Looked close at breech to tang fit, not full contact. Need to mate them up

 

[SDSmlf]

I purchased a barrel that was bored out by Mr Hoyt, 58 cal. Did a little shaving to channel. No luck finding an accurate load.

I do have the stock the barrel came with, I could change the tangs. I'll play a little more before I resort to that.

If I had any doubt about the rebored barrel, I would quickly establish an accuracy baseline with it in the stock it came with. Could save a lot of time.

 

[Elkeater]

The tang is not aligned with barrel channel. Will pull out tang and go from there.

 

[Elkeater]

Slid the tang out. Found copper foil shimming.