Neutralizing aqua fortis with water

[CWC]

Last week I mixed up some home-brewed aqua fortis...against the advice I received about it creating clouds of toxic gas. :grin:
I tested some on a piece of scrap wood and it came out looking nice. Since I don't care how the scrap wood looks in a few years I didn't bother to neutralize it. Instead I washed it with water just to avoid getting acid on my hands. This got me to thinking.... Instead of applying a alkaline solution to neutralize the acid, would it work just as well to wipe the stock down with a wet rag several times? I know this wouldn't technically neutralize it; I guess severely dilute would be a more accurate term.

 

[Flint311]

I guess severely dilute would be a more accurate term.

Not familiar with the stuff, but wouldn't that mean it is still working years down the road? Especially if sealed in? I think I've read that's where some old rifles started to get a green tint to 'em (?). Someone with experience may chime in.....

 

[necchi]

You can, but the acid keeps working and the wood keeps getting darker and darker.
This can have an undesirable affect with a nice curly maple stock, the reason AF is used is to draw out the curl,,,but after a few months it's just a dark colored stock with no highlights. :idunno:

 

[Philip Lebow]

Colleagues,

Just wipe it down with aqueous ammonia, and that will
neutralize the acid. The ammonia just evaporates.
Un-neutralized aqua fortis will eat the wood, and the
metal furniture. (guess how I know)

Mainspring

 

[Mike Brooks]

I use a slurry of baking soda and water.

 

[longcruise]

Me too. It's too simple a process to go looking for a shortcut.

 

[bioprof]

I guess severely dilute would be a more accurate term.

Not familiar with the stuff, but wouldn't that mean it is still working years down the road? Especially if sealed in? I think I've read that's where some old rifles started to get a green tint to 'em (?). Someone with experience may chime in.....

You're referring to chromium trioxide which is different from aquafortis. Chromium trioxide is the one that sometimes turns green over the years. I've never heard of aquafortis doing this.

 

[Stophel]

most people use baking soda. I use a lye solution. No, I don't know the concentration. A glass jar with water and some lye added. Yes, it will melt your fingerprints off, but I'm used to it. Slop it on heavily. At this point there should be ZERO "whiskering", so you can get it soaking wet with no problems. Actually, I then wash it off with a bit of soap and a water hose.

 

[Stophel]

Oh, and as far as "diluting the acid", remember, the water evaporates...leaving the acid, so it doesn't matter how "dilute" it was to begin with, though it can be physically washed away.

 

[rabjr]

I use a slurry of baking soda and water.

Thats always worked for me too.

 

[Roy]

never used a thing.. my first gun is the same color as when I made it :idunno: :haha: maybe the heat does the trick

 

[CWC]

never used a thing.. my first gun is the same color as when I made it :idunno: :haha: maybe the heat does the trick

Do you know what concentration of nitric acid you use? Would you mind sharing your application technique?