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Nepalese 1853 Enfield project

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Joined
Dec 31, 2019
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Good morning. I recently acquired this rifle from Toothpick in the For Sale section. He okayed me posting a thread on the rifle here because neither of us knew for sure what it was, and we’re both curious fellows.

I’ll get some photos posted later due to sitting in my chair covered with my “sicky” blanket and enjoying Round 2 of the Wuhan virus. But i’ve done quite a bit of reading. If anyone has one of these at home, especially one in poor shape, listen up, chime in and we’ll all learn something.

Apparently this gun was made in Nepal - a close copy of a British rifle but a little rough in some areas, like somebody used a file to mimic the contours of the P53, close but not crisp and perfect. The stock has two holes for lock screws but only one lines up with the lock. No barrel band springs. As was not uncommon with the Nepalese, the mainspring extends down below the lock plate when uncocked, so the hammer must be at half-cock to insert the lock into the stock.

THE REAR SIGHT IS MISSING! This sucks. There’s a shiny spot on top of the barrel where it was de-soldered and removed. Why so people do this sort of stuff?

The stock is apparently teak and is cleaning up very well, ready for its first coat of boiled linseed/tung/turpentine today. Brass had to be scrubbed with engine degreaser and then soaked in vinegar for a while, looks like 160 year old brass now. Go figure.

No bayonet lug, front sight is a round steel ball.

Barrel is pitted inside and out. The 3M abrasive pad is my friend. A while back there was a post here about cleaning up the bore of a hard-to-load rifle by using a square piece of the maroon pad on a reduced caliber jag and polishing the bore a bit. This works, by the way. I’ve been using this technique on this rifle and i’m gradually starting to get more light shining off the walls instead of just black gloom. The pads, impregnated with aluminum, are working well on the outside - the barrel is starting to look a little like an old gun barrel instead of the dirt half of an old fence post.

That’s all for now - there’s so little information out there in one place about these weapons i’m guessing that if these posts get a little long with too many photos, someone out there will be pleased. And i know that if i get too many responses, I’LL be pleased. Thanks.

don
 
A couple of photos: i read that the stock is teak. I think i really like teak! Note the knot that passes right through the stock. Anybody know if that would pass Her Majesty’s inspectors? I started out with aircraft stripper to dissolve all the goo. Scraped and then sanded with 150 and some 220. And then wiped on/in some linseed/tung/turp mix. I think there’s plenty of oil still in that wood so maybe one coat will do it.

The first pic is the original finish, the second is the stripped finish before sanding 18160F52-5E6C-42FE-B557-49F98A7E58D4.jpeg6D00FBD1-DFBA-42B3-97E6-4CA61F26B614.jpeg0C131F20-4372-4596-8FDD-EA34A5054E62.jpeg1826F9F1-AC3F-4227-B8D4-A923BB4AA0AF.jpeg7D5DB9DA-E377-4212-A1E9-28882017CDF6.jpeg
 
Pleas keep us informed of your progress and techniques. A few years back someone posted here about a musket from IMA that he had restored, came out real nice. It looks like yours's will too. I'm interested in the thread as I have one of their cartridge guns down in the basement waiting on me.
 
Thanks for the encouragement!

I’ve been eying the ima website and i’m trying to decide between one or two of their $100 half rifles. Might get a better barrel or lock, maybe even a rear sight. Problem is that i’d have to go find a couple of serviceable stocks to go with the parts.
 
A good New Year’s Eve to you all. I’ve gotten tired of looking at a pile of parts here, so i undertook to assemble this piece. Oh, boy. First off, this lock (which works just fine) was never installed on this rifle, at least not properly. The forward lock bolt hole was never tapped. The tear one was fairly boogered up as well. I drilled both out to the next very slightly larger diameter available and tapped them - the front was 6mm and the rear was 1/4 x 28 (giving me more threads in the metal). I’ll say it first - not authentic! But i de-plated the zinc bolts and aged them - they’ll do.

I’ll load a couple of photos and go on...
F948E1E1-9536-476A-81B7-0648EE9C760F.jpeg98ACE6EA-023E-47DD-A4D9-91E145D52104.jpeg31151D2B-324A-4263-ACC2-F0EB5DDE6F1E.jpeg00FD704F-C308-4754-9B4F-2166F5BE0318.jpeg
 
The brass parts came out of the vinegar looking good by themselves but even better against that pretty wood. Also, the stock was never drilled for the front lock bolt and i had to do a little work with a chisel inside the lock inletting so it seats and functions. The member i got this from included photos of the cracked barrel tang, which I immediately fixed by snapping it right off. And now it’s not cracked anymore 😃.

2D2629D4-7C81-4E58-A60A-1BA657900435.jpegE89E5BB2-0A9A-4834-ABEE-7D0259A8E73F.jpeg2D2629D4-7C81-4E58-A60A-1BA657900435.jpegE89E5BB2-0A9A-4834-ABEE-7D0259A8E73F.jpeg
 
(oops, extra photos, sorry)

As previously noted, somebody decided to remove the sights from the barrel, possibly even before i was born. But you’ll not the special low-profile snag-free models they used for a replacement.

I got the nipple out with very little trouble. I have no idea what size it is, so if anyone has a suggestion, sing out here.

There is another issue here which took me a while to figure out. The barrel tang is a thin piece of metal which was welded sloppily to the end of the breech plug. I’ll give you the solution to my initial confusion... that cheap tang was welded on 4 or 5 degrees counter-clockwise from the actual “top” of the barrel, causing the snail (?) to be cocked out to the side. The nipple is no longer alligned with the center of the hammer. The “flat” of the snail is no longer in the same plane as the lock plate. Grrr!

961EC1FC-742D-4164-BEDE-DB9D7601CC95.jpeg4092845C-85CF-40DB-B5FF-D5E7D89B8808.jpegB73049DB-10A7-42B9-9327-3F19A7AD05A3.jpeg45EA7126-19F4-4353-ADF5-9C3D60136F9E.jpeg2ADDF16A-B927-41AE-BFD4-F74549659727.jpeg
 
The solution? Simple. Remove the tang stump with a hacksaw and carefully grind down that junk weld off the stern of the breech plug - the challenge being to keep that surface as close as possible to a perpendicular to the bore axis.

Then i’ll cut a slice off the end of a piece of 1 1/4” angle iron, as thick as the width of the old tang and shape it with a grinder and files to the dimensions of a proper tang. A 1/2” pipe clamp should hold it exactly where i want it to drop a bead on either side.

Maybe i can get to some of this next week. Oh, one more thing, when i was actually putting this girl back together, naturally the last thing was the ramrod. Slid right in - almost. It was hanging up on something so i grabbed a small ball peen hammer and tapped a few times. Didn’t give. And i noticed that i was getting a very solid metallic sound with the hammer. I pulled the ramrod out and marked it where it protruded from the muzzle. Yep, it lined up perfectly with the front lock bolt, which had never been there before. I few seconds with a hacksaw laid that problem to rest!
 
I'm sorry but I find your post a little confusing so I'm going to go with 2 problems and address both.

Nipple alignment: I would plug the hole by drilling it out and installing a grade 8 bolt. As I spent years in steel fabrication shops I would tack weld it at the top to prevent it moving (there are other ways to do that) and then drill and tap for the nipple of my choice so that it aligns properly. If it needed fine tuning I would heat and bend the hammer to get the final alignment. I probably would leave the bolster/lock plate fit as is.

Tang: 2 options: Weld a piece on to the existing tang, redrill and countersink and fit to the existing inlet. Cut the tang off close to the breech plug, weld a piece on and fit to the existing mortise. In this case I would center the tang screw, plug the hole in the stock and drill a new one. That would likely involve plugging and drilling a new hole in the trigger plate.

Looking good so far, keep us up to date.
 
Okay, one more thing - the inly marking i can find, besides a three-digit serial number is an odd four-character word or something which appears to be cast into the side of the hammer. It looks like a backward letter S, the letter I, an upside-down letter V and then that character rotated like a regular V, but just a little odd. See below.

A happy New Year to all, and God bless us, every one.

2858707E-9A8B-45AE-96FA-A667729A902C.jpeg
 
Good afternoon, All.

Update - i have a piece of 1 1/2” angle iron rough cut for welding on as a replacement tang. Another baby step.

I’ve been swabbing out the bore with pieces of red 3M pad loaded with lapping compound around a .50 jag - progress is slow, but she’s a little smoother.

So, i got the idea of tapping a 5/8” diwel rod in until it sticks, the twisting it to loosen it up and finally getting it in a couple of inches. The wood is being compressed as i go, so the bore is just a little under 5/8 or .62.

I’m prepared to estimate it at .60. I should have mentioned that no rifling is present. So at a .60 guess, and subtracting.010 or so for patch thickness, i need rb’s in the .585-.590 range? Not real common i’m thinkin’.

In keeping with all i’ve read about the real Enfield bores, this appears to be a looser fit with the jag/patch combo at the breech end and tighter closer to the muzzle. But no rifling.

Gimme your thoughts and wisdom, folks!

Thanks!

don
 
.58 roundballs from TOTW on the way, should be here this afternoon. I’ll start by elevating the muzzle very slightly and trying to roll one of these monsters down the bore. If it sticks, at least i should be able to remove it by banging it muzzle down on the kitchen table...
 
Or you could drop a short length of brass rod down the barrel before you roll the ball down the barrel. Then the brass rod will hammer the ball out as you shake the rifle over kitchen table. I been admonished about damaging furniture in my house and don't think I'll do that again.
 
Grenadier - you can’t see it but you’re getting the universal “how come i didn’t think of that?” look. Thanks.

TFilet - thank you. Warning: i’m afraid it’s gonna get worse before it gets better. To quote Charlie Brown, “Aaarrrggghhhh!!!” The .58 balls showed up and i took one out and tried to roll it gently down the barrel....

Ever been bowling? You know how the ball return works, how it just slowly rolls the ball back to you until it stops with a happy gentle “click”? Yeah, well forget that. This little lead bomb rolled down the barrel until it stopped dead. 4” from the muzzle.

I ‘ve read that the rifling depth on these change from breech to muzzle, but there’s no rifling in this. Original caliber should have been .577, but that was for minie’s i think. I intend to use round balls eventually

My wife Hawkeye asked if i could return these and before i could answer she grabbed my shirt and yelled, “NO! We can MELT them and make BULLETS!” She just got her first roundball pouring set up.

So anyone feel free to chime in here with advice - i drilled out the snail , tapped it and installed an Enfield-sized nipple. Once the tang is welded in place i can re-set the barrel and start looking around for an old tire and a suitable tree to stand behind.

Where can i buy one .57 ball?

don
 

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