Need some wood advice.

[cynthialee]

I just tried to start making some loading blocks and every time I drilled a hole no matter how careful I did it the back side of the wood had a big chunk riped out of it.

Help?

 

[The New Guy]

Make sure you clamp a scrap piece of wood to the back of your your block before you start drilling. No matter how sharp your drill bit is it will catch on the back of your workpiece as the bit exits causing tear-out every time. By clamping a scrap piece of wood to the back of the workpiece you eliminate the chance of tear-out.

 

[cynthialee]

THANK YOU!

I will give it anouther go soon.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Use a brad point drill bit when cutting these holes. When the lead screw breaks thru the back of the wood, STOP. Turn the piece around and use that break-thru hole to guide the bit to cut from the backside, to finish the hole.

If you can't find a properly sized brad point drill bit, THEN, do as suggested. Clamp a good backing board behind the work piece to prevent the backside from chipping out when using a standard drill bit.

 

[omarick1948]

Just put a piece of Duct tape on the bottom of the wood your drilling and it won't chip out!

Rick

 

[cynthialee]

Thanks guys.
Last night I practiced some more. I found that if I sandwhiched the board inbetween two others I got a hole that wasn't riped up at the front or back.
Then I realised I was all off my marks and I need to start over.
I'll get it figured out.

 

[BrownBear]

Thanks guys.
Last night I practiced some more. I found that if I sandwhiched the board inbetween two others I got a hole that wasn't riped up at the front or back.
Then I realised I was all off my marks and I need to start over.
I'll get it figured out.

Here's an alternative if you don't have a drill press. I use a "spade" bit and watch carefully until the point just pricks the back side of the wood. Then I reverse the block and use the pinprick as a pilot hole and drill from the back side. It's not foolproof, but I nail it about 90% of the time.

Another alternative works for me because I have a bench mount disc sander. I start with a thicker hunk of wood than I want, then just sand away the bad stuff as I thin the board to the exact thickness I want.

Not saying that clamping on the extra wood isn't best, rather that there are other ways to skin the cat. Haven't tried Horner75's duct tape idea, but being from Alaska I like the spirit of it! :wink: Gonna try it next time around.

 

[The New Guy]

Cynthia, by sandwiching your wood between two scraps, you are on the right path. If you are using a Forstner bit (flat bottomed bit) there is no need for a piece of wood on the top since it cuts a pilot hole and the edges of the hole first. This eliminates tear-out on the top side. This way you can make your registration marks on the workpiece and get clean holes EVERY time. If you are are using a standard, run of the mill, bit you can make a template out of cheap wood. Just make sure when you make the template, you use a backer board so you get a clean exit hole on the template to support the entry hole on the "good" wood entry hole. This method will eliminate tear-out 100% of the time.

Duct tape will work sometimes, as will simple masking tape. However, it's manure on soft wood such as pine. furthermore, it can, as duct tape often does, leave an adhesive residue in the grain of the wood which will screw up any type of finish you choose to apply unless you hand scrape the area really well. Who needs an additional step. And no, sanding does not remove all the adhesive. It will just heat it up, make it gummy, and spread it around. I might be new to ML, but I've been a woodworker since about age 10. The finished product will only turn out as good as the effort you put into it. Please don't ever use a spade or paddle bit for any type of decent wood working. They are made to rip through wood for rough holes and will never give you a smooth hole.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I made many of mine with a pen knife and rat-tail file and no drill at all. My favorite is a piece of purpleheart I did that way.

 

[The New Guy]

I have to agree with you stump. Good ole fashioned hand tools are almost always the way to go. I once made a series of holes in a chunk of flat stock that I fashioned from a tree limb with nothing more than a pocket knife. To make the holes, I fashioned a pump drill from a few tough vines, a couple of sticks, a couple of stones from a creek bed and chip of flint knapped off a larger piece also found in the stream. I had a whole group of my boy scouts simply amazed. Going primitive is always fun when I have the time.

 

[gmarc]

use a Forstner bit, or a brad-point bit. These are specially made for wood so they do not tear your exit hole.

Also, drill very slowly when near the exit, and you will usually be OK.

 

[CrackStock]

A brace and bit also has a pilot screw which leads the main cut. When it comes through the back, you turn the work over and drill from the other side.

Satisfies the period correct desires while also being little effort.
CS