Kassner .45 percussion

[Steve Adams]

the single shot pistol is a .45 percussion. To prepare for firing load, cock set trigger then pull back hammer. It goes to half cock and it stays but then when pulled to full cock it does not stay all the time. Any suggestions what to look for? Thanks from the go to all!

 

[Zonie]

The most likely cause is the full cock notch on the tumbler is worn.
The next most likely cause is the nose of the sear that engages the full cock notch is chipped or worn.

If you remove the lock and examine the tumbler (the part that rotates when the hammer is cocked), it will have two notches cut into the outside surface.
One notch will be quite deep and will have a small hook on it.
This is the half cock notch and if you cock the hammer to the half cock position you will see the nose of the sear move into the notch formed by the hook.

Cocking the lock to the full cock position you will notice the tumbler rotates until the nose of the sear moves into a small notch without a hook.
This is the full cock notch.

The edge of the full cock notch where it meets the outside of the tumbler should be very sharp.
If it is rounded off at all, the sear will not be able to rest on the small ledge and the lock will fail to hold the full cock position.

If the full cock notch is rounded off, the only way to fix it is to grind its small surface down to remove the rounded part.

I am not familiar with your Kassner pistol but if it is using an older CVA lock, these had an adjustment screw at the full cock notch.

The purpose of the screw was to allow a gunsmith to adjust the amount of engagement the sear nose would have with the full cock notch.

If your lock is one of these CVA locks and the adjustment screw in the tumbler is screwed in too far, that would keep the sear nose from engaging the full cock notch.

Some people who own one of these CVA locks want a super light weight trigger pull and mistakenly screw that screw in until the sear is just bearly hanging on to the edge of the full cock notch.

Not only is this dangerous but it will result in rapidly wearing out the edge of the notch and the sharp edge of the sear nose.

Backing the screw out 1/2 turn would fix the problem.

 

[Steve Adams]

thanks for the info, mine only has a tiny screw at the trigger for adjustment, I have taken the lock out and am looking at it and it does seem to not have a sharp edge. Would filing one or the other true work? I guess a little at a time is best. And trial and error. Is there a place for replacements? Thanks again.

 

[Zonie]

Is there a place for replacements? Thanks again.

I'm not sure.

If you could post a picture of your pistol then we might identify who made it.
Over the years there have been a large number of companies that imported muzzleloading rifles and pistols and most of them have gone by the wayside.

Fortunately there are very few companies who actually made the guns so there is a chance that some parts are available.
This is especially true if the gun was made by Ardesa.

Ardesa is the Spanish company that supplied most of the guns sold by CVA and many others.
If your gun is one of these it would have Made in Spain stamped somewhere on the barrel.

A company called Deer Creek bought up all of the spare parts for the CVA sidelock muzzleloaders when CVA decided to drop sidelocks and only import In-line guns.

If your pistol was costum made in the US, it may have a standard lock produced by Siler, L&R or Davis. Spare parts for these locks are available.

If worse comes to worse and there are no spare parts available you could try to clean up the tumbler/sear surfaces but these are (or should be) hardened so filing is out of the question.

The only way to re-cut these surfaces is to grind them.

Unless you know how to do this I strongly suggest that you take your pistol to a gunsmith.
A very small error in these surfaces can make the gun dangerous (like it is now).
At the high rates gunsmiths charge anymore be sure to get a quote from him/her before you say OK. They might want far more than the gun is worth.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Might just be a problem with the clearance between the set trigger and the sear. I have had two such guns that needed to be fixed. Just wouldn't hold in full cock because the trigger bar was too high.

I fixed one by putting a shim washer between the wood and the trigger plate, where the tang screw fastened to the trigger plate. It was enough to allow the hammer to go to full cock.

On the other, I just put a little epoxy inside the trigger mortise on the wood where the trigger plate met the wood.

Another possibility is the lock being too tight into it's mortise and the sear hitting the wood enough to prevent it from going to full cock. You should be able to tell by looking for an indentation from the sear.

 

[Zonie]

That is a possibility.

If the lock works like it should when it is removed from the stock, it would be a good idea to check to see where the trigger bar's are doing. :hmm:

 

[mazo kid]

You have received good advise. You may be able to stone the sear notch if you feel confident enough. Does your lock have a fly? I once had a lock that would not hold full cock and on further examination, I found the fly was keeping the sear nose from seating in the notch. A little (careful) work with the Dremel remedied the situation. Good luck.

 

[Steve Adams]

Thanks for all the help, it does not hold on full cock out of the gun. I have since sent it of to a blackpowder smith who will take care of it for me. I do not mess with sear engagements on my firearms be they BP or smokelss. I only let Smiths do that kind of work. But thanks to all.

 

[Greg Hardy]

I picked up a Kassnar Kentucky pistol kit back in '78 and the bore was HORRIBLE. I have never seen so many chatter marks on rifle before or since. Strangely, though, the action was smooth and fired reliably.

 

[Steve Adams]

Mine is the opossit, good bore carppy lock. I will let you know how it shoots during the week though.

 

[Steve Adams]

Well, sent the lock to Longhunters merchantile in Pa.. He had it less that 3-4 days and returned mailed it to me and all is better. His company at this time does not take C.Card but he stated just drop men payment for services and mail when you get a chance. I think his service and turn around time was outstanding. Would reccomend his services to all who can't do this type of work.