Jukar Split Stock, Glue?

[necchi]

I've come across all the componants of an olde Jukar, including an un-fired barrel and the typical hurry up slap some stain and varnish on it stock where in the two halves aren't even shaped the same and leave me with plenty of wood to remove.
Goal is to assemble the kit, doll it up a bit and gift it to a deserving soul in our Rendezvous community. I've cut and crowned the barrel a few inches and plan on affixing the two have in a perminant manner. It's been my experiance the poor fit of these two halves is a primary detriment too accuracy with this type of kit.

Too the Question;
I have at hand some slow set Devcon epoxy and Acraglas Gel. I have the two halves stripped/mated and will not use the spacer (it'll be wood to wood contact)
Which "epoxy" would provide the best perminant way too keep these two pieces together? Is there something better?

 

[LRB]

Of those two choices, I'd use the Devcon. I would have said the Acraglas if was the original type rather than the gel. I would also use dowel pins.

 

[Bill Hall]

I second the dowels. I think pinning it together is more important than the glue you decide to use. In my opinion, the simple butt joint you're suggesting wouldn't be very strong, no matter what kind of glue you use. I really think you need some kind of mechanical fastening between the two pieces of wood. If you have enough wood to work with, maybe you could even "V" cut both pieces, male and female, to join them. Just my thoughts. Bill

 

[SteveFink]

any reason not to use wood glue such as titebond II or III (other than what you already have on hand)? as long as dowels are used it is all wood to wood and those glues are stronger than the wood.

 

[necchi]

There are two steel pins that help hold the pieces in alignment, they're kinda small at 9/64.
The holes measure in at around 0.900 deep.
I have enough room to go up too 3/16 pins +/-.

Plan is to go with 3/16 drill rod and 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" deep in each section. I can abrate the rod with a dremel so the epoxy has something to stick too. I'm thinking the steel will be a mite better than wood dowels.
Steve
It's the wood/steel combination that stears me away from the Titebond. I use Titebond II alot, but in this case I'm not sure it would hold well while in such close proximity to the barrel and it's vibrations during firing. If it was just a chipped off piece or crack I'd use it.

I did swing by the shop today and picked up some Acraglass resin. If the collective thinks it's better than the Devcon I'll use it, makes sence, the stuff does have a proven track record in gun applications.

People have done all kinds of things to cover that seam. I'm not sure exactly what I'll do yet, but I have a pewter casting in mind to cover this one. A little embelishment to draw the eye away from the split, but everyone that knows these guns will know anyways, :idunno:

 

[Bill Hall]

The plan with the bigger diameter, and deeper rods sounds good. Heck, they are already piloted for you. And yes, you would need to go with some kind of epoxy with the steel rods. I wouldn't just abrade those rods, I would cut many grooves around them, and do what I could to gouge up the inside of the holes in the wood (without boogering up the alignment of the rods).

Good luck. Show us the finished product. Bill

 

[SteveFink]

ok - I was thinking wood dowels not steel pins - epoxy it is

also - have thought lately if I do get one of those two piece stocks for next to nothing to maybe put in a section of contrasting wood of some thickness - an inch or so - at the seam

 

[Bill Hall]

Steve, I was thinking the same thing. Like a band of veneer, maybe dark wood, to accentuate (now there's a big word I didn't think I'd ever use) the joint. It could be cut in easily with the side of a file, after the two pieces of the stock are joined. Would hide any boo boo's, and it would look cool. Bill

 

[SteveFink]

I was thinking the whole section - veneer might give you more wood choices & only 1 glue joint vs two for a block but if the pins run through the block section should be plenty strong. Only problems I see with veneer is it coming loose and curving it on the bottom depending on how thick you make it