Jammed Mechanism on M1861 Musket

[RelicKeeper]

Hello all, recently inherited this 1864 LG&Y Military Musket, Model 1861. She shows her age and I plan on leaving it be as far as condition goes. But need guidance on freeing the hammer and trigger as the hammer will move back slightly but is stuck on what it seems the firing position, as well as the trigger all the way back. And lastly the plate on the hammer side sticks out in the back, from being disconnected from the screw on the other side, but front end of the plate is attached in. Funnily enough, this is my first rifle and have no experience in firearms, however I am mechanically inclined with about anything. All hardware is there from what I can see. Would love to just get her unjammed and just put it out for display. Pictures of this old girl is below. Thanks for any help. - Griffen

 

[64Springer]

I see no clearance between the back of the hammer and the plate. And it's normal for the plate to be proud of the lock panel.

Believe it or not, Trapdoor parts found their way into 61-65 Springfields. I have one of them. Had to switch out the tumbler and screws. If this happen, the back of the hammer will bind up against the plate because the tumbler shaft has no shoulder for the hammer to bump up against.

If it were me, I'd remove both lock screws and see if the lock can be removed from the mortise. Then Kroil the snot out of it. And see if things losen up some.

Looking more closely at your pictures, I'm thinking the sear bar is no longer in contact with the trigger. The rear of that plate looks like it's out of the mortise quite a bit.

 

[RelicKeeper]

I see no clearance between the back of the hammer and the plate. And it's normal for the plate to be proud of the lock panel.

Believe it or not, Trapdoor parts found their way into 61-65 Springfields. I have one of them. Had to switch out the tumbler and screws. If this happen, the back of the hammer will bind up against the plate because the tumbler shaft has no shoulder for the hammer to bump up against.

If it were me, I'd remove both lock screws and see if the lock can be removed from the mortise. Then Kroil the snot out of it. And see if things losen up some.

Looking more closely at your pictures, I'm thinking the sear bar is no longer in contact with the trigger. The rear of that plate looks like it's out of the mortise quite a bit.

Yeah the hammer clearance wasn’t my concern. But just where it is stuck in the firing position. And the lock screws are they what hold on the plate from the other side? Thanks for your considerations!!

 

[Sam squanch]

Very carefully loosen the lock bolts, and carefully tap on them to gently push the lock out of the stock. Get someone to hold the hammer back as you do this so it doesn’t snap forward unexpectedly. I suspect it was assembled in the stock wrong. Or something is broken in there…..

 

[Phil Coffins]

The lock looks to be installed while the trigger is in the pulled position so the sear is against the trigger bar. Remove the lock and move the trigger forward before re-installing the lock. That will allow the rear of the lock to set in correctly and then the trigger can release the hammer.

 

[hawkeye2]

Phil nailed the problem.

 

[TDM]

You might want to give the lock a few drops of oil while it’s out.

 

[SwanShot]

I would let the entire lock soak for a week in kerosene, or whatever your choice of solvent is then carefully, don't bugger up the screws, pull it all apart. Being a mechanically minded man you will find that all is revealed. Clean up any rust however you like to do it. If any thing is broken maybe someone here can help.

 

[RelicKeeper]

The lock looks to be installed while the trigger is in the pulled position so the sear is against the trigger bar. Remove the lock and move the trigger forward before re-installing the lock. That will allow the rear of the lock to set in correctly and then the trigger can release the hammer.

And the lock bolts are the ones located on the opposite side, correct! And I remove them first?

 

[Relic shooter]

Hello all, recently inherited this 1864 LG&Y Military Musket, Model 1861. She shows her age and I plan on leaving it be as far as condition goes. But need guidance on freeing the hammer and trigger as the hammer will move back slightly but is stuck on what it seems the firing position, as well as the trigger all the way back. And lastly the plate on the hammer side sticks out in the back, from being disconnected from the screw on the other side, but front end of the plate is attached in. Funnily enough, this is my first rifle and have no experience in firearms, however I am mechanically inclined with about anything. All hardware is there from what I can see. Would love to just get her unjammed and just put it out for display. Pictures of this old girl is below. Thanks for any help. - Griffen

Over the years I've had good luck freeing actions on dug up firearms by soaking them in a 50/50 mixture of acetone & auto transmission fluid for a few days. Some actions require taps with a brass hammer to free the parts up.
Relic shooter

 

[towgunner11h]

Make sure it’s not loaded.

 

[Phil Coffins]

And the lock bolts are the ones located on the opposite side, correct! And I remove them first?

Yes. Two in this case, you may need only to loosen them enough to gently move the trigger forward. You should feel the trigger slide off the sear then press the lock in and tighten the screws lightly.

 

[beyu]

Make sure it’s not loaded.

AND I will say it too — Make sure it is not loaded!

Do that BEFORE you do anything else!

How to do that? Remove the ramrod and lay it against the barrel to make sure it it essentially the same length as the barrel; with just a bit left over, like say about the width of your thumb. Then drop the ramrod down the barrel to see if that same amount protrudes from the muzzle. IF there is a lot more than that, the gun may be loaded. Pull the rod up a bit and then let it drop and hit bottom. If you hear a metallic "TING!" its not loaded. If you hear almost nothing — its probably loaded.

If it is — you have entered the wonderful world of — how to remove a "dry ball." Lots of folks here can tell you what to do about THAT.

WARNING — a gun loaded by your Great Great Grandad 150 years ago is still dangerous!