How thick does a loading block need to be?

[OB One]

I want to make three loading blocks. One each for 50, 45 and 32 caliber muzzleloaders.
I have the drill sizes for each of the round balls. I understand the ball needs to be put in the hole with the patch, then excess patch cut off, then the ball pushed through just a little bit so it protrudes out the bottom of the loading block.

So does anyone have the thickness needed for each size ball?

Thanks in advance
OB One

 

[Stumpkiller]

I would say at least the ball thickness. If you have a bit more (1/8" +/-) you don't get lube on your clothes and it protects the patch from grit that ends up in the bore. I usually leave the balls flush until I actually start to load.

I have seen VERY thick blocks that have a recess for the muzzle. It's all up to personal preference.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Wat Stump said is spot on. But this is a 'do yer own thang' game and project. I would say the suggestions given by Stump will work best. I have made quite a few loading blocks and my experience is just that. But, suit yerself. BTW, I have also found, for hunting, loading blocks with just one or two balls are handiest.

 

[Carbon 6]

At least as thick as the ball diameter, you want to be able to recess it with the short nub on your ball starter so it sticks out the bottom without falling out, this way the protruding part will drop into the muzzle for perfect alignment when you ram it down the barrel.

Wood is cheap make a test pattern first.

 

[tenngun]

I made one for a .54 out of a piece of fire wood from a ‘post oak,’ it was less then 1/2 an inch and part of the ball patch combo stuck out the bottom. I could set it on top of the barrel and the ball just edged in to the barrel. The shot starter could ram the ball down with out useing a shot stub.;
I liked them to lay out five shots for a string of shooting as you don’t loose track of how many shots you took.

 

[PluggedNickel]

I'm glad you asked that question. I'd been wondering about it myself. I'd like to make one for my Charleville, for when not shooting paper cartridge balls. I need to determine the ball size I need to order, and the patch thickness, then I can mic a patched ball and get a starting point. Another great late winter project. I guess for now I should measure the muzzle diameter and take it from there. Pedersoli says .69 caliber. I'll see what the digital caliber says. Come to think of it, that is one of the reasons I wondered how you can order one of those offered for sale at TOTW, Dixie, The Possibles Shop, etc. without knowing the exact size of your muzzle bore, and ball patch combo. Maybe they sell them on the under size for each caliber, and you just sand them to fit. I doonno. As for thickness, I too have seen them an inch or more thick down to about 3/8." I think I'd go thicker, so I don't deform my balls.........ouch!

 

[Stumpkiller]

I did try a .662" ball block. Not a successful attempt.

Too much wood to carry around.

 

[Rifleman1776]

just sand them to fit

Yep. Even the ones you make for yerself need to be sanded open to fit to yer liking.

 

[N.Y. Yankee]

A lot depends on the wood too. If you use maple, you could probably go a bit thinner. Pine, a bit thicker. I've seen them all kinda ways. Ball diameter sounds right to me. Been thinkin of makin some myself.

 

[B.Habermehl]

Mine are all made from pallet scraps, poplar and oak. About 5/8 to 1/2 inch thick. I drill my holes with speed bore wood drill bits. Say for a .50 caliber gun I start out with a 9/16 bit and carefully file it down to about .520 to start with. Test drill some holes, and test with your ball and patch combo. File down the bit as needed to get the dia and fit you want. Drill through the stock till the pilot of the bit protrudes and flip, finish from the opposite side. I’ve made a ton of loading blocks through the years this way. It’s easier to customize the drill bits than up size the holes with sandpaper and such. I use loading blocks and paper cartridges of powder in my hunting pouch, and leave my horn home, while I hunt. BJH

 

[Juice Jaws]

I did try a .662" ball block. Not a successful attempt.
Too much wood to carry around.

I always enjoy looking at your lay out, nice and neat, easy to get too. Is that pure bee's wax for the big wads?

 

[Le Loup]

I want to make three loading blocks. One each for 50, 45 and 32 caliber muzzleloaders.
I have the drill sizes for each of the round balls. I understand the ball needs to be put in the hole with the patch, then excess patch cut off, then the ball pushed through just a little bit so it protrudes out the bottom of the loading block.

So does anyone have the thickness needed for each size ball?

Thanks in advance
OB One

Original 18th century boards, & the one I made for myself on my shot pouch strap. I would say so long as the board holds the ball securely it should be fine, but I would rather have it thicker than thinner. In all these years I have never had to use my board, other than to make sure it was easy enough to use when I first made it. It is about as thick as the ball is wide.
Keith.

 

[BrownBear]

I take a different tack on my boards. I put them on the sander and thin them to just slightly less than ball diameter. Works out slick. When I press the ball into its hole flush, it's all set for "cutting at the muzzle" so no patch sticks out to hang in things and loosen the ball. And that most assuredly happens with any extra sticking up. Meanwhile with the top flush, a little "dimple" of patched ball sticks out the bottom. That proves really handy for centering the ball on the bore, especially with cold cold hands in play.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I always enjoy looking at your lay out, nice and neat, easy to get too. Is that pure bee's wax for the big wads?

Thanks. I melt 50/50 beeswax and tallow and stick the wads on a pin and roll just the edges in the mixture. Less weight than dipping the whole wad. Only need the lube on the edges. Pure beeswax would be fine, but I like the mix as it stays more pliable in the cold when I small game and grouse hunt.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Is there any exerts or written documentation outside of cartridge boxes on loading boards? I feel they certainly can be useful but I've never came up with any concrete conclusions on these. I'd love to read an actual period account of someone describing the use for one reason or the other. I have only been able to find various mentionings and speculations surrounding them, which isn't definitive proof IMO.

 

[FishDFly]

Is there any exerts or written documentation outside of cartridge boxes on loading boards? I feel they certainly can be useful but I've never came up with any concrete conclusions on these. I'd love to read an actual period account of someone describing the use for one reason or the other. I have only been able to find various mentionings and speculations surrounding them, which isn't definitive proof IMO.

In Ned Roberts book, "The Muzzle Loading Cap Rifle" he discusses "loading blocks" on pages 88 and 89 and he has pictures of one which came with his first rifle along with a straight starter on page 81.

 

[PluggedNickel]

Loving this info, great picks, Stumpkiller!

 

[Ketchakah]

I use a block.
I make them about 3/4 the ball diameter. I like a bit of the ball to poke out the bottom of the block as a locator. Put the patched balls in the holes and lay it down backside first, and push them even.

A block is a form of quick loader. I make mine to only hold 3 or 4 ball. Unless i'm in a battle, I'm probably not gonna shoot that much and 3 or 4 may even be overkill. 1 or 2 may be plenty. If i was still hunting i would go for 2.

As i look over at the wall where my horn and pouch hang, i see a block with 6 holes. I really don't think i've ever shot that many in the woods. The exception would be Skwerl hunting. But then... No. 2 or 3 shot don't fit well in a block

On the range, i usually load from my pouch, but as arthritis begins to take my dexterity, i am thinking about a larger block.

 

[M. De Land]

I want to make three loading blocks. One each for 50, 45 and 32 caliber muzzleloaders.
I have the drill sizes for each of the round balls. I understand the ball needs to be put in the hole with the patch, then excess patch cut off, then the ball pushed through just a little bit so it protrudes out the bottom of the loading block.

So does anyone have the thickness needed for each size ball?

Thanks in advance
OB One

I've liked 3/4 inch oak with a small leather lanyard but don't really use one as much as I should. Loading blocks are a good idea for competition as well as for hunting in my opinion with less messing around between shots to distract one.

 

[Mark from Alaska]

I am making one like this as we speak....

I am building a 6 hole with 6 powder chambers for my .50. It is kinda a pain to make.. I am using 300 win brass with the shoulders cutoff as the powder chambers. They hold 70g. I should be able to hold patched 490 or Lee Real’s... who knows if I will ever use it, just wanna make it. Will be using Alaskan yellow cedar for the wood which is really not a cedar at all, it a Yew.. I will post pics when finished.

Mark