How smooth to sand when using Aquafortis

[huntman58]

I did not find much on this. I did find most said not to sand after you use it. If that is the case should I sand to 220 320 or 400. I do want it smooth and silky and will be finishing it with tung oil in a low gloss .I do plan to wet sand it with the 400 and 600 using the oil as my wetting agent tell the last two coats then let the two dry and buff it down to get the gloss I want . What’s you opinions?

 

[Swampman]

I use 0000 steel wool to dewhisker before I start with the Formbly's Satin Tung Oil Finish.

 

[Nifeman]

The man who taught me how to use it said, "sand to 320 grit, wipe on your AF, dry with a torch or heat gun, dewhisker with 0000 steel wool then hand rub with BOILED linseed oil."
After he oiled it, he kept on hand rubbing the hawk handle while he gave the rest of the class. When it was over, about an hour that handle was actually shiny like it had a coat of glass laid on it.
Hope this helps...Bud

 

[Allan Gray]

Be wary of using steel wool before you use AF. They will react and you could be left with freckles on your stock

 

[Dalekg6]

Hi,

This is what I did with the stock I'm working on which is mentioned in the aquafortis post. I sanded to 220, wiskered with 400, applied AQ then after dry from neutralization wiskered it with 0000 steel wool then started applying Truoil.

Not saying it's right or wrong but it came out good.

Dale

 

[huntman58]

Well I take it there is not a to smooth before the AF is done but with a warning not to use steel wool at that point. But after the AF it is okay so here is my plan of action to comment on
Sand down to 320 the whisker it 3 times at 400 2 times then 600 one time
Do the AF when dry heat to color then wash and neutralize stock with baking soda
Then smooth down with 0000 steel wool
Start the tung oil finish is many very thin coats tell the finish I want (about 7 to 12 coats). Then degloss if needed with wet sanding at 600 or finer sandpaper or rotten stone.
Dose this sound like a good plan of attack?

 

[rabjr]

I would omit the steel wool, it's evil stuff so stay away from it. Instead use a piece of burlap or old denim to burnish the wood before applying your finish.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, the use of any sandpaper finer than 320 grit on bare wood is a waste of time.

The pores in a hardwood like Maple are larger than the .0031 size of the grit so using anything finer than that really does little to "smooth" the wood.

Actually I've found that 220 (.0045 grit) is just about right for finish sanding. It cuts the wood cleanly without mashing the fibers down. It cuts the whiskers off cleanly and leaves the wood in an excellent condition for staining whether I'm using a alcohol stain, an acid or a base.

Sense staining should be done only after the bare wood has been whiskered several times there should be no reason for sanding afterwards. In fact, sanding will remove some of the work you just went through to stain the wood so I wouldn't recommend sanding it at all.

As was mentioned, using steel wool prior to staining or to applying the finishing oils is asking for trouble unless you like millions of little ugly freckles.

 

[huntman58]

Thanks Zonie and Swamp Rat and all the others that have been helpping me with this Gun :bow: . Notes being taken :hmm:
Omit steel wool and use nothing finer then 320 but 220 preferred for the bare wood sanding and staining
thanks this is the kind of info us new builders like to see as it helps :hatsoff: .I know I have enough mistakes to take care of all ready with out adding more :cursing: I do hate freckles did as a kid on me and still do on a gun. fact is I have one that needs to be redone again because of the freckles never knew what happened but I gots me a feeling now. Yes I steel wooled the wood before stain and after

 

[Zonie]

I hope you guys/gals don't get me wrong.
IMO, the finer grits of sandpaper like 320-1200 work great for use on top of the final stock finishes.

Of course, 320 and 400 are a bit rough but the 400-1200 grit papers can be used to smooth and finish hardened oils, varnishes, lacquers, epoxy based finishes etc. (not that anyone here would dream of using a fine Urethane on his 1778 Lancaster).
I often use 600 or 1200 grit "wet/dry" paper and water (as a lubricant) to remove the tiny bits of dust that roughens the coats of oil I am building up for a final finish.
If you don't remove these little bumps before applying the next coat of finish they seem to grow and grow rather than blending in with the adjacent surface like you would think they would.

 

[huntman58]

Zonie
Thanks I was thinking just what you said. I know I planned to use the very fine stuff after I get about two coats of finish on then I smooth it out with wet dry and do it all over again. This time it is going to be a chore when I do this one as I live in the middle of a 4 sq mile orchard that is worked 6 days a week. talk about dust every day so this is going to be a tricky one to keep the dust off of it as there is no were in the house or out side safe from the stuff what with tractors and trucks running up and down the road all day past the house being there shop is right behind us . It dose make it nice when there gone for shooting